Any home a/c suggestions
#1
Any home a/c suggestions
How this started... For some reason ants decided to congregate inside my condenser unit starter contactor this past week like a bunch of employees around the corporate water cooler. I cleaned out all the carcasses and the contacts, it was pretty much toast but still working. I called local a/c company to come out and perform an a/c tuneup which has a $100 rebate and replace the contactor. While doing their check they found oil residue inside my heat exchanger in the attic, which I suppose means I have a slow leak. They added 5#'s of what they called "new R22" for the time being @ $50/#. They recommended a new system rather than repair the old one. Mine is a 4ton a/c system with electric heat.
I need a new 4 ton a/c system, any recommendations on what to get? Heat pumps are out of the question, been there, done that, not going down that road again. So looking for suggestions on what brand, type, etc.
I need a new 4 ton a/c system, any recommendations on what to get? Heat pumps are out of the question, been there, done that, not going down that road again. So looking for suggestions on what brand, type, etc.
#2
Well, I bought a duel Carrier system and after 5 compressors [made in Mexico] finally got things straighten out I HOPE
Seems some brilliant engineer [most likley on Tequila] designed the motor to SWITCH directions.
Seems some brilliant engineer [most likley on Tequila] designed the motor to SWITCH directions.
#3
hopefully when he added the "new" R22 you were empty, it's not compatible with original 22. Why not have him find the leak with nitrogen and braze it. I did that with my 22 yo system this spring and added the new stuff and it's been perfect.
#4
Jamesbo, are talking about a heat pump system?
The A coil is pretty corroded, I looked at it. The unit still ran and cooled but pressures were down a bit, had not added any freon in the 14 years we've lied here. I watched them put 5#'s in. They said it is compatible.
The A coil is pretty corroded, I looked at it. The unit still ran and cooled but pressures were down a bit, had not added any freon in the 14 years we've lied here. I watched them put 5#'s in. They said it is compatible.
#7
I will never own another heat pump. We had one in a house we built in the Texas Hill Country. If it got colder than 45 it would run all the time and the emergency electric heat would kick on. If it got down in the 20's you would freeze your butt off in the house. It was a Trane unit. Never again.
#8
Back in 04 we upgraded to a Lennox elite series 4 ton with electric heat.
Had to change a fan motor in the outside unit once. I has been kicking *** ever since.
It helps to have a friend in the business as well. He had a pull out of the same unit (His
customer was doing an addition to his house and the unit was to small), and asked if I wanted one for the shop, no brainer. I have a matching set. Lennox is the best in my book. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with, it's a large expense.
Had to change a fan motor in the outside unit once. I has been kicking *** ever since.
It helps to have a friend in the business as well. He had a pull out of the same unit (His
customer was doing an addition to his house and the unit was to small), and asked if I wanted one for the shop, no brainer. I have a matching set. Lennox is the best in my book. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with, it's a large expense.
#11
Agreed on the heat pump. If you can get natural gas piped in, that is the best all around heat system. As far as cooling, I am kind of partial to Carrier. Have a four ton unit in my home with no problems for 13 years. Try to find a dealer with good sale on SEER systems that are lower rated. They are usually cheaper that current upgraded systems and contrary to popular belief, the SEER doesn't really mean that much.
#12
Interesting. 2 post calling out equipment problems. Iam in the HVAC business. 5 compressors due to a fan running backwards? Looks like you need another service tech. Should take 20 min to figure out that problem. Heat pump won't work below 45*F. They certainly are designed to work way below that. We have a lot of Heat Pumps here in Vancouver. Works great. Looks like another crappy install by the service tech. Sure manufactures have some equipment problems. The vast majority of " Crappy equipment" is the installation/servicing mechanics "crappy install". I see it ALL the time. Keeps me in steady business. If service techs would "read the instructions" a lot of issues wouldn't exist.
Mike
Mike
#13
Im in the business but on the Commercial/industrial side. I would say stick with a recognizable name. Carrier , and Trane makes good units. High efficiency is pretty much the name of the game. Most units come with Puron (aka 410a) . The important thing is finding a reputable service company to service it. Check around and see what they sell. Maybe they can get you a good deal. Are you replacing just the A coil or the whole indoor section? If you are replacing the whole thing maybe get a gas furnace instead of electric heat and a heat pump.
#14
I would assume since I have an R22 system both the inside and outside unit need to be replaced. The unit is still running ok and cools the house. Is it better to buy an A/C system in the fall/winter season?
#16
Home AC and Heat
We had our system replaced this year with an American Standard central unit. We had access to natural gas so went with a new gas heating system and are really pleased with both. So far our bills are way down from the 20 year units that were replaced
Today the outside temp reached 96 degrees ,and it is very comfortable inside.
Be sure you buy from someone that will come running to you if you have problems,that's the main thing to look for ! Service is #1 on my list. Larry
Today the outside temp reached 96 degrees ,and it is very comfortable inside.
Be sure you buy from someone that will come running to you if you have problems,that's the main thing to look for ! Service is #1 on my list. Larry
#17
Eric, my wife and I just replaced both of our AC units. Our home has two, a 4 ton downstairs and a 3 ton upstairs. They are both Ruud's.
The old units were from the 90s and were leaking coolant. The gent that installed them is an acquaintance of ours I trust and he said there is a new refrigerant coming that will make old units obsolete.
We are happy with our purchase. If you want more info (like model numbers and such) I can get it for you.
The old units were from the 90s and were leaking coolant. The gent that installed them is an acquaintance of ours I trust and he said there is a new refrigerant coming that will make old units obsolete.
We are happy with our purchase. If you want more info (like model numbers and such) I can get it for you.
#19
Eric, here are some pics of the units my wife and I bought this summer. Apparently, it's not a new refrigerant that's on the way, it's that the old R22 will be unavailable in a year or so. At least, that is what we were told. Regardless, we needed new AC.
Both of our units are SEER 16. When we were living in Lawton we bought a SEER 18 heat pump for the price we paid for these. FWIW, we paid $12k cash (since our house just sold). He told us we could havd financed it through the company he works for, but it would have been closer to $18k. Anyways, these were a much better deal and we are already spending 30% less for electricity each month.
I hope this helps. Keep us posted.
Both of our units are SEER 16. When we were living in Lawton we bought a SEER 18 heat pump for the price we paid for these. FWIW, we paid $12k cash (since our house just sold). He told us we could havd financed it through the company he works for, but it would have been closer to $18k. Anyways, these were a much better deal and we are already spending 30% less for electricity each month.
I hope this helps. Keep us posted.
#20
Interesting. 2 post calling out equipment problems. Iam in the HVAC business. 5 compressors due to a fan running backwards? Looks like you need another service tech. Should take 20 min to figure out that problem. Heat pump won't work below 45*F. They certainly are designed to work way below that. We have a lot of Heat Pumps here in Vancouver. Works great. Looks like another crappy install by the service tech. Sure manufactures have some equipment problems. The vast majority of " Crappy equipment" is the installation/servicing mechanics "crappy install". I see it ALL the time. Keeps me in steady business. If service techs would "read the instructions" a lot of issues wouldn't exist.
Mike
Mike
Im up north, im a HVAC contractor. there is 19 seer 2-3 stage condensers that a heat pump will work down to 15deg. if ducting is sized correctly.
r-22 drop ins arnt recommended to be added, there supposed to be replacements but as your system is at time for replacement its ok
And yes a strat heat pump without a secondary back up sucks
Last edited by truckman5000; July 20th, 2017 at 06:02 PM.
#21
Replacement refrigerant for r-22 is r-438a, it is about $230 for 25 pounds. But you said A/C worked, just needed contactor. If in fact oil was in indoor coil drain pan unit would not have cooled correctly or at all. If air blowing out of registers is 10 to 15 below room temperature all is good. Up north here in our area we have a couple big companies that do this all the time to sell equipment. As far as equipment Goodman is made in Texas and has a very good warranty. Key in warm climate like yours is to get highest SEER unit as possible. Should be able to get twenty years out of A/C unit.
#22
Ants seem to be attracted to contactors. Perhaps they are getting high on the ozone created by the arcing. ???? Try to use an ant pesticide to discourage them.
http://getactionairnow.blogspot.com/...ontactors.html
Some A/C coils utilize spine fins to exchange heat. These are good for exchanging heat as long as you are not in a corrosive environment, acid rain, or coastal region where the "salt air" is commonplace. (Granbury shouldn't have the coastal problem.) If you are somewhere where corrosion could be a problem, the spine fins seem to be more vulnerable than the old fashioned coils. If the spine fins fall off, a lot less heat will be transferred. Consider the "long run" if you don't expect to relocate.
If there is no gas, and you don't do a heat pump, what heats the building in the winter? Electrical resistance heat? It might get expensive unless you have really low electrical power rates.
My last condenser (only) purchase was a 4 ton Bryant. I also have an old 5 ton Lennox on another house. Both are R22 units, have scroll compressors, and are currently doing well (as long as I can keep those damn ants out of the contactors).
http://getactionairnow.blogspot.com/...ontactors.html
Some A/C coils utilize spine fins to exchange heat. These are good for exchanging heat as long as you are not in a corrosive environment, acid rain, or coastal region where the "salt air" is commonplace. (Granbury shouldn't have the coastal problem.) If you are somewhere where corrosion could be a problem, the spine fins seem to be more vulnerable than the old fashioned coils. If the spine fins fall off, a lot less heat will be transferred. Consider the "long run" if you don't expect to relocate.
If there is no gas, and you don't do a heat pump, what heats the building in the winter? Electrical resistance heat? It might get expensive unless you have really low electrical power rates.
My last condenser (only) purchase was a 4 ton Bryant. I also have an old 5 ton Lennox on another house. Both are R22 units, have scroll compressors, and are currently doing well (as long as I can keep those damn ants out of the contactors).
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