molasses4masses

I'm in the process of trying to highly educate myself on what to look for in purchasing a 1970 Cutlass within the next 6-7 months. I know I can deal with having to replace panels and floor and trunk pans that are rusted out. I don't know what to look for when it comes to too much rust on a frame, though.

For example, I looked at this ebay sale and thought, "That rust looks pretty widespread." Would you say my assessment is correct, or am I being too cautious? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oldsmobile-C...US_Cars_Trucks

I'm not looking to throw tens of thousands to get the "trailer queen" look. A daily driver that I can cart my family around in that has some class and power is good enough for me. That being said, if you all can share any pictures of what is good, okay, poor, and "don't buy at any cost", that would help a newbie like me a lot.

vette442

From the three pics of the underside, I didn't see anything more than surface rust on the frame of the car in that Ebay listing. The floor pans and crossmember looked nice too, so that's encouraging. Unless you live in the desert southwest, you're going to see that on most unrestored cars of that vintage.

If the surface rust is heavy enough that it leaves significant pitting or large flakes come off when you scrape, then you're getting into more sketchy territory where body mounts may be bad or the structure may be compromised. You usually see this when a car was parked outside on dirt and it sucked up moisture for an extended period of time. The entire underside tends to look crusty.

Terry

MDchanic

Where are you located? Because anywhere in the Northeast, anyone would tell you that the car in those pictures is essentially rust-free.







If that looks bad to you, then you'll spend a long time looking for a car.

For me, a frame has to pass the "ring test" and the "light test": If you can whack it with a sledgehammer a few times, and it rings and doesn't sound dull, and afterward, you can't see light through it, you're good.

- Eric

molasses4masses

Thanks for good advice. I was hoping I wasn't going to get ripped a new one by asking a simple question.

Like I said, I want to make sure I'm not being too picky. I'm located in Virginia. It appears that vehicle is as well. It's not the exact body type I'm looking for, but it had a lot of pictures. So, I wanted to use it as an example.

Allan R

The seller is not misrepresenting the car - in fact this is one of the few I've seen where honesty is relatively strong. The engine in the car is a 73 455 if the J heads are original to it.

Other than some sheet metal work and interior work this is a nice looking car but it's close to the limit I would be willing to pay for it considering the work still needed to make the interior really nice and have sheet metal fixed.

It also appears to have the 70 Cutlass S grills still intact! They are somewhat scarce now.

Just a note: the pictures in the ad were taken at different times. In one set they show the car with raised white letter tires, in the others they show blackwalls so it's likely had some miles put on it.

The interior door trim is from a 1970 Cutlass Supreme.

molasses4masses

I feel like $4,000 is about right for what it is. I am somewhat hoping that the Notchback one in Illinois is still available when I have the funds together.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/cto/4258320278.html

Allan R

I hear alarm bells going off with that green CS. Look at the rot in the trunk. THAT is scary as it's likely just the tip of the iceberg. I'd want a good look at the rest of the undercarriage and all the pinch welds on the doors and trunk. Fridge magnet would tell how much filler on the body too. A lot of these cars get the lipstick and mascara treatment to distract your eyes from the rest of this real issues.

Even looking at the rust under the hood suggests this car hasn't been really cared for. I may be wrong. Have you gone and checked this one out in person?

jfb

That frame looks f--in clean to me. I would soak the bushings for a couple weeks daily and grind the frame then por 15 it. I did the same and have had no rust for 14 years and it was done cheaply and the money saved went to parts. I also do this for a living and apply everything to my projects that I positively know what works. by the way where needed use 6o grit not always grinding discs.

molasses4masses

I haven't. I would definitely want to do that before any commitment (pics, etc. emailed to me). That just fits (roughly) what I am looking for.

Cman7713

I'm about 10 minutes from that green Cutlass. If you're serious about wanting to take a better look I suppose I could contact the guy and see if I could take additional pictures. Partly because I'm interested too but my girlfriend would kill me if there was another olds in the garage. Just a heads up though, the previous listing on that car said it's been owned by his family the entire time if I recall correctly. That means Illinois winters and lots of salt.

joe_padavano

As a Massachusetts native, I have to agree with Eric.

oldcutlass

The underside of that car looks better than mine.

Professur

Long and short ... you can have a frame that's still showing all the original paint and still have a rust through, and you can have a frame that's entirely covered in leprous orange scale, and have nothing to worry about. Pay attention to any shelves, joints, flanges and screw holes ... anywhere that's likely to hold grit and salt. Contrary to common belief, water doesn't rust steel ... oxygen does. Water is just the medium. Salt accelerates the process dramatically. Grit acts like a sponge, keeping that location wet and salty. So really ... short of x-raying, the best way to check is to use a pick and a hammer. If you find a crevice with a lot of grit in it ... assume it's holding rust. Tap your way along listening to the ring. Unexplained tone changes are a concern.