cola

Hi guys
going to attempt to remove the rear coil springs in my 68 cutlass, any suggestions or tips or pictures?


cola

2blu442

I'm pretty sure last time I did that I supported the frame on jack stands, removed the tires, removed the lower shock mount bolts on each side. Then I rocked the axle housing down on one side, pulled the spring out, then went to the other side and did the same. I don't think I removed the trailing arms or messed with the brake lines. John

joe_padavano

John's right, though I don't think I even needed to remove the tires. Once the shocks are disconnected the axle will drop down far enough for the springs to fall out.

kevinkpk

Yes, unbolt the shocks ( I used a floor jack) and I jacked the body up till the spring would clear. It's not as difficult as it sounds/seems.

68conv455

Don't remove the shocks until you drop the axle as far as possible. You may not need to remove them. Also..... You're going to have the car up high (especially if you don't remove the tires), so please, make sure you have redundant supports under your car. Don't risk getting crushed. Safety first!

68conv455

After all. We don't want to damage a perfectly good Cutlass on your chest.

Olds64

Definitely safety first! Also be careful working around suspension parts when the springs are compressed. If one of those springs pops out when it is partially compressed it won't just fly across the room.

When I was doing the front suspension on my 64 98 I used a floor jack to compress the springs between the control arms when I put everything back together. It was pretty scary hearing the spring pop and creak as I compressed it. I was glad when I got the ball joints bolted to the spindle.

cola

Hi everyone
Thanks for the quick response. I tracked down a chasis service manual and I think I'll wait for it to come in.

thanks again and happy new year to all

Andy

cola

Hi everyone
thanks for all your help, replaced the rear coil springs last week and everything went excellent. I did however have to remove the passanger side wheel. I had trouble getting the coil around the tail pipe.

Thanks again for everyones help

cola

Thor-HoG

Not sure if those on this thread are still around, but I just found it and am about to do the exact same thing on my 72 Cutty. Just wanted to say thanks for the advice!!

Lady72nRob71

Old threads can always be good reference material. Lots of them here!!

getawaycar

No matter how old the thread... the cars are still older.

sykosoft

Not to resurrect, but this method worked great. I purchased Moog Variable Rate Wagon springs for my 1969 4 door Cutlass. It was relatively simple, jack up one side, unbolt the shock, keep going up, remove the old spring, replace with the new spring (needed a bit of leverage to get them in, but no spring compressor), re-bolt the shock, and complete. Confirming that I did need to remove the passenger rear tire, as there is no clearance for removal/reinstallation with the exhaust in the way. That said, the car looks AWESOME, with a very nice 60's rake to it, and this method worked great.

Michael

Allan R

Only thing that I found helped make the job faster/easier was when removing the shocks I didn't waste time undoing the nut/bolt (unless there's no corrosion and they'll spin off easy). Just overtighten the nut till it busts the end right off the bolt. New bolts and nuts go on soooo much easier. Also a good time to replace the worn rubber shock isolators!

Lady72nRob71

If it is possible (not in every case) that leaving the wheel on gives extra weight to pull the axle down more for easier removal/insertion. Worked for me, but exhaust config is a factor. Also your jack has to get it up high enough. I put mine on 2x8 pieces.
I swapped them without even getting under the car - just working through the wheelwells.

troyh

I am about to do this myself also. My 72 supreme has the late 70s butt in the air look that I want to get rid of. I'm going to put sensa trac shocks on also. The front will wait till next year when I can do the control arm bushings. It handles like a pregnant turtle and squeals the front tires around corners even when going slow.

Lady72nRob71

Here's the thread for you then...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-end-job.html

Don't let the mightaswell bugs bite!

troyh

Last night I tried to take out rear springs. It must have wagon springs in it cause they are over 15 inches long and wont come out! AAARRRGH!! Ill have to get spring compressor monday, busey non automotive weekend planned.

sykosoft

I doubt it. My wagon springs only have a 10 inch installed height (about 1.5 inches more than standard). Though, I'm not an expert.

Separate subject, what should I do about my shocks, install longer ones? How long?

Michael

rustyroger

Just a note of cation, make sure the axle doesn't hang up with the E brake cable or rubber brake hoses.
When I put new rear springs in my '83 Cutlass wagon I did the whole job before my girlfriend had made coffee, we started both jobs at the same time.

Doing the fronts was a whole different ball game, took two of us half a day.

Roger.

troyh

Mission complete!!! It went great. Springs that came out measured 19 inches! Not sure what they came out of but WOW they are huge. The car sits normal now and rides better too. Cant wait till next year to redo front suspension. Most everything is original 1972 parts.

MudEye

Just bought Rear springs for my 67 Supreme. Would these instructions apply?
Body style is totally different. Mine is the longer convertible.

oldcutlass

Yes

2blu442

If its the type O it would be exactly the same, just as Eric said. But I have seen some of the 8.2 rear ends under 1967's. It was a transition year for the rear ends. The 8.2 has something like a big washer bolting the bottom of the spring to the rear end. If yours has that then you'll need to remove the bolt and large washer thingy in addition to the directions here. If that's clear as mud I may be able to come up with a picture for you.

John