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What frame will interchange with delmont 88 or can I add front tire rod suspension
Hello everyone I could use your help.
I have a 1968 oldsmobile delmont 88 and I put some bigger wheels on it and now my suspension is doing what it wants I have replaced everything except steering box and control arms...
what I noticed is when I put the car in reverse my lower control arms slide and I have know idea how to stop it.
this car has reversed suspension (tire rods behind control arm) I really just rather swap whole frame to regular tire rod (front tire rod suspension) if possible any help please.
The 1965-1970 Olds full size cars use rear steer, with the steering linkage behind the axle centerline. This is NOT the cause of your problem. The control arms do NOT "slide", ever. No other frame interchanges without MAJOR fabrication work. Have you maybe jacked the suspension up to clear these bigger wheels? Changing the suspension geometry can wreak havoc with steering angles.
You mention you see the shift when you put the car in reverse. Is the suspension moving or is it the engine and transmission? If the motor mounts are worn the engine will rock when put into gear or whenever the engine is revved.
The 1965-1970 Olds full size cars use rear steer, with the steering linkage behind the axle centerline. This is NOT the cause of your problem. The control arms do NOT "slide", ever. No other frame interchanges without MAJOR fabrication work. Have you maybe jacked the suspension up to clear these bigger wheels? Changing the suspension geometry can wreak havoc with steering angles.
I have a taller spring in the suspension.... I put polyurethane bushingings in them the bushing stays put but the control arm does slide I seen it for myself I will post pictures later today so you can see
You mention you see the shift when you put the car in reverse. Is the suspension moving or is it the engine and transmission? If the motor mounts are worn the engine will rock when put into gear or whenever the engine is revved.
mounts are tight and good... it shifts while driving
I have a taller spring in the suspension.... I put polyurethane bushingings in them the bushing stays put but the control arm does slide I seen it for myself I will post pictures later today so you can see
Then something is broken. The arm cannot "slide". Note, however, that the geometry of the suspension DOES cause the lower ball joint to move rearward as the lower control arm moves up when you hit a bump. This is done purposely to help take out some of the jolt you feel when hitting that bump. Again, using taller springs to jack the suspension puts the LCA in a different part of the travel arc, and thus will screw up the suspension geometry.
This, "Changing the suspension geometry can wreak havoc with steering angles."
Do you still have the front sway bar?
I always thought about exchanging a 1971 thru 1975 B body convertible frame on the 1965 thru 1970 B-body for the "front" steering and the disc brakes, better suspension, ease of putting headers and more choice of rear gearing options. Father time has put those thoughts at the end of my bucket list. As I remember, wheelbase is 1" difference. "Some fabricating needed", think of it as a challenge.
Then something is broken. The arm cannot "slide". Note, however, that the geometry of the suspension DOES cause the lower ball joint to move rearward as the lower control arm moves up when you hit a bump. This is done purposely to help take out some of the jolt you feel when hitting that bump. Again, using taller springs to jack the suspension puts the LCA in a different part of the travel arc, and thus will screw up the suspension geometry.
We'll need more info than those two photos, but two things can be seen immediately. First, someone has ground on the lower control arms. What, exactly did they do? How have they been changed from stock? Second, those aftermarket bushings don't look correct. My 67 Delta (which uses exactly the same control arms and suspension) completely fills the pocket in the frame where that bushing is located. There is something wrong with this installation. There should not be any gap between the bushing and the ears on the frame, and there should definitely not be a spacer washer in there. I can see where the bushing could be compressing and causing the LCA to move on the bolt. This is not a correct installation.
We'll need more info than those two photos, but two things can be seen immediately. First, someone has ground on the lower control arms. What, exactly did they do? How have they been changed from stock? Second, those aftermarket bushings don't look correct. My 67 Delta (which uses exactly the same control arms and suspension) completely fills the pocket in the frame where that bushing is located. There is something wrong with this installation. There should not be any gap between the bushing and the ears on the frame, and there should definitely not be a spacer washer in there. I can see where the bushing could be compressing and causing the LCA to move on the bolt. This is not a correct installation.
there is no washers on it... usually on a bushing it has rubber coming out of both ends...well this has moved to the other end so it makes it look wrong
While the result is the same, these two sets of photos are showing two different problems. In the second set (the parts car, I assume) the metal sleeves for the control arm bushings are sliding in the control arms. This may be caused by incorrect installation or by excessively worn holes in the arms. I suspect an installation problem because the LCA bushings on the 65-70 full size cars are inserted "backwards" from normal practice. The two holes are not the same size, which can cause the problem seen in the lower photos. In the case of your car and the original photos, you apparently are using some sort of aftermarket urethane bushings, correct? It appears that the urethane inserts are sliding in the metal sleeves, which is why there is a gap between the sleeve and the flange on the bushing. That is incorrect. These urethane inserts are supposed to have a sliding fit, and kits typically include a urethane ring that goes on the side opposite the flange to prevent this motion. I don't see that ring on your installation, which could be the source of your problem. Note the rings in this kit.
July 1st, 2018, 06:46 PM
