1961 Lower Ball Joints tips advice please

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Old May 14th, 2016, 04:30 PM
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1961 Lower Ball Joints tips advice please

Well.....took the 88 to get inspected and it was failed for loose LBJ's. Is Rare Parts the only source for these? I'd appreciate any tips/advice as I see these are for 61-62 only apparently.


Also got my first look at the ball bearing front spindle. I guess these have lasted 68K miles should I replace them? I've looked at the Scarebird disc conversion and I like the idea of a modern Timken bearing but are they truly necessary? The brakes are in excellent shape and work really well but I'm still considering a disc brake conversion. Who's done it and what are the downsides?


Thanks guys.
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Old May 14th, 2016, 07:44 PM
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There is an NOS pair on E-Bay right now.
The guy has them listed as 1962 although according to the part number (586712) they are actually 1961. As per both my Olds parts books ( 1963 & 1972 ) The 62 joints were #586715.
Not real cheap, but for a rare one-year part that has to be expected .
He is open to offers , I would offer $175 for the pair.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1962-Old...hTozxT&vxp=mtr

Last edited by Charlie Jones; May 14th, 2016 at 07:52 PM.
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Old May 14th, 2016, 08:12 PM
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Here's a couple of threads on disc brakes;
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...sc-brakes.html

This one's about a 68 , but the same info applies to '61.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...sc-brakes.html

Disc brakes ,are NOT necessary. Unless you do a lot of mountain driving .
The ball bearings, as long as they are smooth and shiney are good for a LOT of miles. Probably a lot more than some crap chinesium roller bearings. I wouldn't be afraid to use them. Just pack them in some good wheel bearing grease.

Last edited by Charlie Jones; May 14th, 2016 at 08:45 PM.
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Old May 15th, 2016, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Charlie Jones
Disc brakes ,are NOT necessary. Unless you do a lot of mountain driving .
Can't say that I agree with this. Brakes are one place where I'd rather have overkill. These are heavy cars and drum brakes do heat up, even in normal driving. When a drum heats up, it moves AWAY from the brake shoes, requiring more pedal travel until you run out of travel. This is brake fade. When rotors heat up, they move TOWARDS the brake pads.
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