Trunk Seal
June 15th, 2017, 04:11 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 182
Trunk Seal
Hello,
Fitting a new trunk seal, old seal was thrown a couple of years a go,
should of taken photo's of fitted. Does the seal get pushed under the
lip of the trunk? Also, I'm a bit hesitant to glue in, in case of corrosion
underneath, do most people glue them in. Looks like I'll also have to adjust
the locking mechanism to get it to catch,
regards, Cus
Fitting a new trunk seal, old seal was thrown a couple of years a go,
should of taken photo's of fitted. Does the seal get pushed under the
lip of the trunk? Also, I'm a bit hesitant to glue in, in case of corrosion
underneath, do most people glue them in. Looks like I'll also have to adjust
the locking mechanism to get it to catch,
regards, Cus
June 15th, 2017, 04:47 PM
#2
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 4,844
The profile is obvious. I dont glue mine in. That allows me to be able to pull it out and towel out the water on the low spot.
Download Fusicks catalog and look at the profile of the seal. The three humps fit down into the groove then the small lip at the 2 o'clock position(in the cat pic) tucks under the inner groove. So the only thing sticking proud is the top of the seal that contacts the trunk lid. The half moon shape is pointed to the outside perimeter of the car. Cut the seal a bit longer than needed. Fit the seal into the groove without stretching it. Leave it big until it settles in then trim it down the road if needed. The bottom seam is generally offset towards the passenger side verses centered by the latch.
Download Fusicks catalog and look at the profile of the seal. The three humps fit down into the groove then the small lip at the 2 o'clock position(in the cat pic) tucks under the inner groove. So the only thing sticking proud is the top of the seal that contacts the trunk lid. The half moon shape is pointed to the outside perimeter of the car. Cut the seal a bit longer than needed. Fit the seal into the groove without stretching it. Leave it big until it settles in then trim it down the road if needed. The bottom seam is generally offset towards the passenger side verses centered by the latch.
June 16th, 2017, 09:36 AM
#5
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 4,844
Leave the latch alone unless it has evidence of being moved. It will settle. You dont want it too tight. It should make good contact with the bumpers and the seal. Replace the bumpers before you have not before you start adjusting. Thanks for the pics Gary! Could have saved me a ton of typing if I was near my car.
June 16th, 2017, 11:30 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,755
Be careful when closing the lid after installing the new seals!
The new seals will be thicker than the old ones, so more force will be needed to close the lid until they compress. I dented the lid on my '70 Supreme by trying to "press" the lid down with my hand on it - it wouldn't latch, popped up, and I kept pressing it trying to get it to latch and then saw I had dented it. After that I switched to "flinging" the lid down so my hand was off the lid when it contacted the seal/latch.
The new seals will be thicker than the old ones, so more force will be needed to close the lid until they compress. I dented the lid on my '70 Supreme by trying to "press" the lid down with my hand on it - it wouldn't latch, popped up, and I kept pressing it trying to get it to latch and then saw I had dented it. After that I switched to "flinging" the lid down so my hand was off the lid when it contacted the seal/latch.
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