New'n72

Question about the keying of locks on a 1972 Cutlass.

When I redid the paint on '72 I had the door and trunk and ignition locks swapped out for new locks. The original ones were being a bit quirky, especially the drivers side door lock. I didn't really think that through as much as I should have.

As I recall, the door locks on my '72 were keyed with the ignition key. The trunk, glove box and console were all on the other key.

Now, with the new locks, I have doors and trunk on one key and ignition on the other key. The glove box and the console will only work with the original trunk key. In other words I now have 3 keys to deal with.

I do have the original door and trunk locks. I have the shop and body manuals for that year olds, but I am having a problem figuring out how to get the locks apart so I can change the tumblers around.

Any suggestions on the easiest way to get back to a two key system?

Bluevista

I put in a tilt column and new ignition switch so I'm in the same situation. My problem is that on a wagon the tailgate power window switch uses the ignition key too, it may be easier to key the ignition to the rest if possible? The Fisher body service manual explains how to take them apart and has a key code diagram you put the key on to determine the correct tumbler level and figure out the code. I've never done it but assume you need different size tumblers?

New'n72

Yes, I have the Fisher Body Service manual too. I have it front of me as I type this. I can read it and understand everthing it says but I'll be darned if I can get the cylinders apart.

I was planning on using the tunblers from the original locks and swapping them around with what is in the console and glove box locks already.

I assume that these tunblers are also available from some source but I don't know where.

From what I see in the manual I think I could probably make a set from scratch myself, but I need to get them out where I can see them clearly to see the details.

I have a local guy at the Ace Hardware store that used to work for a Pontiac dealership. He may be able to help me with this?

If I learn anything interesting I will post it here for others.

Bluevista

Hmm, I never tried it myself, it will be interesting to see how it goes.
I really don't want to pull my steering column apart again to get the switch out, the door and tailgate locks are sitting in a box....somewhere.
I found a spare set of keys bolted to a magnet stuck inside the air cleaner snorkel after I got my car. I didn't have the glove box key so it was a most fortunate discovery.

Lady72nRob71

I have the same issue - 3 keys... My ignition cylinder was replaced long ago and would like to re-key it to match the doors. If any of y'all have success, please post.

New'n72

Rob

Can you verify that the doors are keyed with the ignition?

The trunk, glove box, and console are all keyed on the other key?

Thanks,

Robert

New'n72

I don't remember if I put these photo's up here or not. I got a new cloth top last fall. Same color as Lady's top.


http://s618.photobucket.com/albums/t...=Grundy004.jpg

Bluevista

The Fisher manual says it. The "A" key is for doors and ignition. The "B" or oval head key is for the glove box, trunk and console. One reason was so parking lot attendants and mechanics couldn't snoop through your trunk and compartments if they only had the ignition key, only open the door and start it. The wagon has no trunk so the tailgate power window uses the "A" key, if it has the locking load floor compartment option it uses the "B" key for the floor lock. I would think you could take the key and whatever you want changed to match it to a locksmith and they could do it. I may pull my wheel and just have them do the ignition switch if possible, not that big a deal and I have the two needed tools to do it already. I have trouble enough keeping track of two keys, maybe they should have a GM triangular shaped head key for the oddballs?