The Bug Man

Finally have accesed all the bushing bolts and removed them (Geeze what a damn job that was ). Cleaned a couple and put them back in place just for alignment. The car is up on jack stands at all four corners at the moment. Front cap is off. My plan is to replace one side of bushings at a time. Should the car be down off the stands when I do this to keep proper alignment or will it be OK to leave it on the stands? I have more access and clearance on the stands but seems like it might be safer off the stands. Any input woiuld be very much appreciated.

oldcutlass

It's probablt easier on the stands. It's a pain in the a$$ no matter what, you can do both sides at once.

The Bug Man

I think I'm just going to do one side at a time and not tighten anything all the way down until both sides are done.

Toyaholic

Keep us posted. I'm considering the same technique.

kitfoxdave

I tried doing one side at a time, but the frame started lifting off the jack stands (engine, trans. and rear out) so I just did them both at the same time. Worked fine.

plee3 64Olds

I just completed this task. Yes it a PITA. Either method will give you the same results.

The Bug Man

OK they are all in. Used OPGI rubber 2 piece bushings for 68-72 GM A body. The kit came with bushings, bolts of 3 different lengths, nuts and heavy flat washers. Used bolts from the kit and self tightening nuts that I bought to replace the ones that busted during removal. Used three survivor bolts that looked in "like new" shape (after a turn on the wire wheel) where the OEM nuts stayed in place. Sits level and the bushings between the body and the frame look great. BUT after snugging all down I looked underneath at the cup part of the bushings and they are all squashed and irregular. Also am going to have to trim one bolt in the trunk that sticks up above the trunk floor (used one of the shortest bolt in the kit) Not sure what's up. I'll post pics tommorow

RetroRanger

nice work. sadly thats on my to do list

The Bug Man

My advice is this get a new can of PB blaster and soak the sh*t out of all the nuts/bolts every day for a week before you turn the first bolt. Each bushing bolt in the trunk and under the floor pan has a raised round hump over it to keep the bolt from contacting the pan. I drilled a small hole in the top center of each one of these to shoot the PB blaster in. I had the front cap off so I could access the two at the bottom of the firewall easily. If you are going to take the front cap off at some point now is the time to do it, otherwise the firewall bushings will be a pain to get to. This will also make the radiator support bushings very easy to do.
Get a good breaker bar and socket ( I used the socket out of my impact set). You WILL have to cut some access holes in the trunk floor or floor pan. How many will be based on the condition of the car. I was lucky in that 4 of the bushing bolts came out easily and were unscathed. I was able to use them in the new bushings. I did away with the cage nuts wherever I had to cut the access holes and replaced them with new hardened self tightening nuts and washers. Be patient and take your time. Good luck

RetroRanger

Thanks for the tips bug man.....I don't want to jinx myself but for the sake of boasting on here, ican say I have not come across a single fatener on my car that has been stuck. I am amazed especially when I took out the wheel well liners and original battery tray bolts without breaking or stripping anything

Hopefully I am as fortunate w the body bushings !