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I have a numbers matching Rallye 350 with clear title that I have owned for 15 years up for sale. I'm asking $17,000 USD O.B.O. for the car and all parts. The car is located in Panama City Beach FL. It is an Arkansas car and is absolutely rust free. Both rear quarters were replaced by the previous owner because of damage. The car has the Cutlass S package with upgraded bucket seats and console. Has AC/PB/PS, front disc, tilt column, elec adjust drivers seat, stock am/fm radio, rallye mirrors, rear window defogger. Only thing I wish it had but doesn't is the rallye gauges with tach. I have more pics here http://sparksitservices.com/gallery/...hp?/category/3 and here is a vid if it running a few years ago
I have removed the original drive train (olds 350, TH350, Olds 12-bolt) and replaced with a very built Olds 455, bullet proof 700r4, and chevy 12-bolt rear diff. All original parts come with car. The 455/468 makes about 550 HP and 550 ftlb NA. It was built to handle a 250hp shot of N2O but has never been sprayed. The N2O port injection system is hidden under the torker intake manifold.
I started the frame off restoration around 2004 and completed to the point the car was driveable. I lost the great job I had at the time and had to take a much lower paying job with several hours a day of commute time so the project was left sitting for the most part.
All the orig engine brackets and accessories are stored with the orig numbers matching 350 engine. I bought a duplicate set of brackets for the 455 because they had to be modified to clear the taller valve covers that are required to clear the rocker arm stud girdles.
Also includes a 2nd complete 455 engine with enough parts to put together a 3rd 455 engine.
Large assortment of restoration parts including body panels and new interior and exterior parts. Collected from year one and other vendors, as well as some original used parts in good condition.
Engine and drivetrain details:
468ci Oldsmobile 455 block. Valve covers and accessory brackets have been meticulously modified to look exactly like the original 350, most people wouldn't even notice without a measuring tape. Built bottom end for a max of 300hp nitrous shot or boost. Has direct port nitrous system hidden on underside of Torker intake. 550+ HP on dyno without spray. Never been sprayed. Dick Miller steel main caps, ARP 1/2” main studs, Eagle steel connecting rods w/ ARP bolts, Ross custom pistons 9.8:1, Dick Miller oil pump, Hardblock up to bottom of freeze plugs, balanced crankshaft/rods/pistons, HV oil pan, full roller valve train, comp cams solid roller camshaft and lifters, moly push rods with spares, SS valves, roller rocker arms with ARP studs (BB Chevy) and stud girdles, max effort cylinder head work, ported, shaved more than 1/10”, ARP 1/2" head studs, SCI reusable copper head gaskets with SS O-rings, heads and block milled so a standard intake manifold can be used without modification, AES modified Holley 850 (now flows 980CFM), Mallory ignition – distributor – coil – HyFire VI control box.
TH700R4 completely built with performance parts, 3500 stall converter, custom HD drive shaft – joints - and yokes, Pypes 3” X-pipe exhaust out to bumper, Hooker Super Comp headers, all new A/C components, summit aluminum radiator and dual electric fans, Mallory 250gph fuel pump – regulator - filter, 1/2” fuel lines, edelbrock wheel hop eliminator, all new syspension bushings everywhere, all new front steering components including close ratio steering box, all new brakes – hardware – lines – booster - etc, new alternator – PS pump – hoses.
Sorry for the long post. Let me know what you think.
Last edited by RallyeSparks; May 12th, 2017 at 05:04 AM.
Reason: Reduced the price and added O.B.O.
Good point about interior. I will get pics asap and post. All interior parts are installed in the car. Needs carpet, headliner, package tray, and seat covers. The factory covers are the upgraded type. The dash pad is perfect. The dash itself is in great shape and has never been cut or modified. I have replacement wood grain inserts from Year One for all the dash and the console that are still in package. The original console shifter was replaced with a hurst ratchet shifter without any modifications to the console. The door panels need to be rebuilt or replaced but are not too bad as is. Also have full set of SW gauges but no place to mount them.
Fresh interior pics as promised. Also has all new door, window, and trunk rubber installed although that was about 10 years ago. New matching door, trunk, glove box, and ignition key set installed. It came with manual crank windows but I have a full set of factory electric regulators, motors, switches, and wiring harness that comes with car. The chrome trim piece outlining dash pad is new from Year One. I have the huge original radio as well. I have a new Year One glove box but didn't install it. That's where all Mallory ignition box and other electrical stuff is located. The original wiring harness was NOT cut or modified. I did remove it, clean, and re-wrap with the orig type of non adhesive wrap. The entire floor is covered in POR-15, seam sealer, and DynaMat sound dampener.
What do you guys think a fair price would be for all that I'm selling? Or maybe a better question would be: What do you think would be the best way to sell everything?
What do you guys think a fair price would be for all that I'm selling? Or maybe a better question would be: What do you think would be the best way to sell everything?
Sucks about the job.
Just because you asked, I think $19K is a stretch for it. Two factors are playing against it - stock cars are more collectible than modified. While the 455 is an upgrade on paper it prob doesn't add much to the value of the car. 2nd factor is you've done great work but there is still work to do. You get killed on unfinished projects. Whoever buys it are going to be adding the $$ for the rest of the work to get it mint in their head.
If I put the $$ on it I'd say $13K-$15K
Re selling it, Online forums (like this ) and FB sales pages are for tire kickers. I'd say try Hemmings and look into getting it listed in Journey With Olds, the Olds Club of America magazine.
To be honest, When I look at the pictures above and the one's on your Craigslist listing I am a little confused as to the actual condition of the car. As droptopron stated above, there does appear to still be a lot of work that needs to be done. I also believe the price is high. I actually considered coming to look at the car, but I would need to see some better pictures first.
Thank you droptopron and jharsh for the feedback. I expected to nego down from $19k. Seemed like a decent starting point. I'm definitely not firm on the price.
As for the confusion on the current condition, yes, I see your point now. I didn't make it clear in the ad. The pictures are mostly all from around 2004-2006 when I was actively restoring it. It's not as shiny new looking any more but mechanically new. No confusion that it will take a lot to make it mint in anyone's mind.
I do have the orig numbers matching 350 and all parts for it. I actually have lots of extra stuff that goes with it too. I'm making a "life change" and getting rid of all my car stuff.
Jim, let me know if you want fresh pics and where you want me to send them.
Great catch on the speedo! I switched them so tach was in center easier to see. Easily switch back. It's not a factory tach. Car did not come with rally pack gauges. I bought a second dash insert and modified a Mallory tach to fit and look like orig.
Pics of the second 455 that comes with the car. Short block is still assembled. Heads removed. Comes with full set of sheet metal. No intake. Was a good running engine with a single carb tunnel ram.
Heads for 455 Complete short block with heads sitting on top. I can unwrap and get more pics if needed.
This 455 has been disassembled and machine shop cleaned and inspected. Std bore but will need at least .030 over bore. Crank is std but will need at least .010 grind. Comes with rods and all sheet metal. I couldn't find the heads for this one so I'm going to say I don't have the heads for this engine.
The crankshafts are wrapped in carpet and have always been stored standing on end to prevent warpage. I can unwrap and get pics if needed.
The crankshaft's are wrapped in carpet and always stored standing on end to prevent warpage. Shown here are the orig 350 heads, crankshaft, and 3rd 455 crankshaft. I can unwrap and get pics if needed.
The car was running and driving when I started the restoration. I took the orig 350 to the machine shop and had it disassembled and cleaned for storage. Pistons removed from rods and valves/springs removed from heads since these would be replaced in a rebuild.
The original breather comes with the car. I did not use it. I modified a low profile aftermarket piece to look like an OEM base. Also had about 3/8" machined off the carb mount (top) of the Torker intake to the breather with the orig ram air piece would fit under the hood. Cost about 30 hp but I wanted the OEM look under the hood.
The door is the orig one off the car. It's not too bad. Has some damage on the leading edge where it meets the fender. The used door I found was absolutely perfect so I used it instead. The fenders on the car are the only problem points for the body. I have 2 more left fenders and 1 right. Also a right side lower fender repair panel.
Also coming with the car is a power window setup less the motors. I have an original wiring harness that is in great condition even though it looks like a ball of mess. Wires are flexible and connectors good. Clean and re-wrap to look like new.
The manual regulators that are in the car work perfect. They have been cleaned and all wear parts replaced with new.
Also have the rubber flex hose for the window wiring harness going from door jam to body.
This is the orig diff that came in the car. I built a 12-bolt chevy rear diff and used in the car. 3.90 gears and limited slip. Stock axles. Edlebrock anti wheel hop devices installed.
The front fenders are the only thing that still need attention on the body. Center hood piece (the head banger piece) was accidentally left out when car was painted. Small ding in rear bumper Left fender needs a lower repair panel. Right fender is in pretty good shape but still needs so work.
Current under hood pics Mallory recirculatory fuel pressure regulator. 1/2" feed and return line to/from tank. Fuel tank modified for the larger lines. check out http://www.sparksitservices.com/gall...p?/category/10 AC converted to 134a. New AC lines as well. All wear parts in the tilt column were replaced.
Do you still have the car for sale? I am interested. Would be a cash deal. I live in central Florida. I have a 1970 Cutlass S that I have been working on for years. I would be will to purchase some turn key like yours.
I apologize if my ad isn't clear but the car is not turn key ready at this point. The engine is out of the car. I was in the middle of changing the cam to a milder profile.
Well, I just brought this car home. Now have 2 Rallye's in the garage. Was able to get what I would say is a fair deal for both parties. Ended up with 4 extra front fenders (2 left, 2 right), the original 350 engine and three 455's. I have not had a chance to go threw all the other parts that came with the car, there are just so many boxes of stuff. The car definitely needs some work but nothing looks crazy bad. It also came with an 18' trailer. Which I needed anyways.
Very nice purchase. Is your other Rallye equipped like this one or a different set-up, maybe a 4-speed non-A/C car?
My other Rallye, is a F-85 (post car), with a 4 speed, and bench seat. It has some original documents verifying it is a Rallye 350 and seems to be a numbers matching car. My goal is to keep it as original and correct as possible. Since the car I just purchased did not have any documents I think I am just going to get crazy with it.
My other Rallye, is a F-85 (post car), with a 4 speed, and bench seat. It has some original documents verifying it is a Rallye 350 and seems to be a numbers matching car. My goal is to keep it as original and correct as possible. Since the car I just purchased did not have any documents I think I am just going to get crazy with it.
Though not documented as most Rallye's, except for the double dash paint code, it does seem to be a true Rallye - even with the original bucket seat/console, A/C and drivetrain.
Hopefully you do not go too crazy with it and keep it where it can be returned to stock condition.
Nice to see another Rallye back on the road and saved from being parted out.
Rick,
Thanks and sorry to hear that. I know one of them was built to a 468 and was making 550 hp on the Dyno. I plan to keep that one. The other 2, I may sale but to be honest I have yet to look at them. If you really need one let me know and I will try and get some data off the block and heads.
May 3rd, 2017, 08:44 AM
) and FB sales pages are for tire kickers. I'd say try Hemmings and look into getting it listed in Journey With Olds, the Olds Club of America magazine.
