power drums vs. disc brakes
#1
power drums vs. disc brakes
I am changing the cam in my 69 F-85, which currently has drum brakes, I always intended to convert the drums to discs, but someone suggested that I could keep the drums and just add a booster. They said this would work just fine.
Has anyone tried this? Does it work well enough to stop a car which is getting more hp with every change I make? Or should I go with the original game plan and convert to disks...
Thanks for any advice you have to offer.
DO
Has anyone tried this? Does it work well enough to stop a car which is getting more hp with every change I make? Or should I go with the original game plan and convert to disks...
Thanks for any advice you have to offer.
DO
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
So which is it? You want to know what's needed to convert from manual drum to manual disc? Drum to power drum, or drum to power discs?
Drum to power drum - yes you could just add the booster for now. You might have to upgrade your brake hoses for the higher pressure too. But when you go to power front discs? That's different; you need a major amount of different parts.
The disc conversions are really easy but expensive, but you'd be using all new parts. I prefer power discs to power drums.
In line tube has a nice conversion for your car. You can go with power front disc/rear drums or the all 4 wheel discs
DBK6807 1968-72 A-body Power Disc Kit $675.00
Complete Kit Includes
Drum to power drum - yes you could just add the booster for now. You might have to upgrade your brake hoses for the higher pressure too. But when you go to power front discs? That's different; you need a major amount of different parts.
The disc conversions are really easy but expensive, but you'd be using all new parts. I prefer power discs to power drums.
In line tube has a nice conversion for your car. You can go with power front disc/rear drums or the all 4 wheel discs
DBK6807 1968-72 A-body Power Disc Kit $675.00
Complete Kit Includes
(All New Parts): Rotors, Backing Plates, Spindles, Calipers and Pads, Caliper Brackets, Delco Booster, Bleeder Master Cylinder, Disc Drum Valve, Brake Hoses, Bearings, Seals, Banjo Bolts, Crush Washers, all Miscellaneous Hardware and Installation Instructions.
DB1791B Rear Disc Brake Kit 10 or 12 bolt $599.00
Complete Kit Includes: Caliper Brackets, New Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Hardware, Hoses, Hose Brackets, Parking Brake Cables & Lines w/Fittings. This is a weld-on caliper bracket and must be used on wheels 15" or larger.
Complete Kit Includes: Caliper Brackets, New Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Hardware, Hoses, Hose Brackets, Parking Brake Cables & Lines w/Fittings. This is a weld-on caliper bracket and must be used on wheels 15" or larger.
#4
Drums will stop your car just fine until they start getting hot (fade), disc brakes are much better at resisting fade.
Like Allan says you will need all the matching hardware to do the job properly.
Roger.
Like Allan says you will need all the matching hardware to do the job properly.
Roger.
#5
Thanks for the feedback. I did a drum to disc conversion on my 66 cutlass...but I only recently heard that "power" drums were an option and I didn't know if it was worth considering.
Based on what I'm learning, I will probably just convert to disc brakes so I don't have to worry about the brakes getting hot and not working as well.
Thanks again for all the advice and all the leads.
Based on what I'm learning, I will probably just convert to disc brakes so I don't have to worry about the brakes getting hot and not working as well.
Thanks again for all the advice and all the leads.
#6
If I are going to spend the time and energy to change, I'd change to discs. My 72 came with power drums and I hate them. And if you drive through water high enough to get in the drums, they don't work at all. Not don't work as well, they flat don't work. The water acts just like oil on the engine bearings. The shoes ride on a thin layer of water and never touch the drums. You need to pump and pump to force it out and dry it out. Not good when we sometimes get caught in major rainfall in south Florida.
I have a complete factory change over that I haven't put on yet, but soon.
I have a complete factory change over that I haven't put on yet, but soon.
#8
'Back in the day', I had a '67 BB Impala SS - probably weighed 4400 as it was loaded, and since I kinda liked 'flying low', deceided to upgrade as best I could!
Found some metallic shoes, and also used new drums to be on the safe side.
Once installed, had to get used to 'warming them up' in the morning, and watching the mirror during panic stops on the Chicago X-ways, but I swear, could out-stop almost anything!!!
Even had a Trooper slide by me from 90 - unmarked car!
Don't know if metallic shoes are still around, but they really worked for me!!
Eats drums, but really works!
Don't remember any water problems - good drainage around Chicago!!
Found some metallic shoes, and also used new drums to be on the safe side.
Once installed, had to get used to 'warming them up' in the morning, and watching the mirror during panic stops on the Chicago X-ways, but I swear, could out-stop almost anything!!!
Even had a Trooper slide by me from 90 - unmarked car!
Don't know if metallic shoes are still around, but they really worked for me!!
Eats drums, but really works!
Don't remember any water problems - good drainage around Chicago!!
Last edited by Rickman48; March 13th, 2012 at 11:04 AM.
#10
Brakes
I switched out my drums for disk brakes in the front. There over 7 million people here at seems as if maybe two of them know how to drive in a courteous manner. Consequently I was tired of fearing the car lurching sideways in an emergency scenario....
The conversion was relatively simple and I couldn't be happier with the result. Family is a lot more at-ease when riding with me as well.
The conversion was relatively simple and I couldn't be happier with the result. Family is a lot more at-ease when riding with me as well.
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