Brake light after hosing-.-

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Old January 17th, 2019, 07:34 AM
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Brake light after hosing-.-

1967 Cutlass Supreme 442 - 400cui/THM400
Hello!
I was hosing down my tires, rims and lower fenders - carefully and with enough distance I thought because it was a higher pressure hose at the gas station - after I had driven through some mud.
After restarting the car the brake light on the left, which also functions as the parking brake light, stayed on. After some driving and restarting no change. Car still brakes very well and fluid reservoir seems full( sorry I couldn’t see any marking in the garage, and the maglite had some kind of issue - but the fluid in both reservoirs was almost full to the top, quarter inch left). What made me wonder a little, was the front one of the two reservoir gasket „nipples“. Both are opposite the bottom of the each reservoir and the one to the car front was stretched out a little in bottom direction. If that had been there before the brake light occurred I don’t know but I thought I should mention it. Made it plain as the other one and closed the reservoir- no change.
Could anyone tell me where to start looking?
I am gonna check the reservoir again and the brake lines close to the tires tomorrow with better lighting.
Thanks upfront!
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Old January 17th, 2019, 09:22 AM
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Make sure the parking brake is not engaged first and disconnect the plug to the switch. If the light is still lit go under the hood to the combination valve and disconnect the 2 wires from the switch and see if the light goes out and the plug is not wet with water and crud. If it does, you need to inspect the wheel cylinders on the front to see if there are any leaks.
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Old January 17th, 2019, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Make sure the parking brake is not engaged first and disconnect the plug to the switch. If the light is still lit go under the hood to the combination valve and disconnect the 2 wires from the switch and see if the light goes out and the plug is not wet with water and crud. If it does, you need to inspect the wheel cylinders on the front to see if there are any leaks.
To clarify, there is only one wire that goes to the distribution block under the hood. The BRAKE warning light has key-on power on one side of the bulb and switched ground on the other side. There are three possible ways for the bulb to come on. There is a lamp-test function in the ignition switch that provides ground to the bulb when the key is in the START position. There is the pin switch on the e-brake pedal that grounds if the pedal is not all the way up. There is the differential pressure switch in the brake distribution block that provides ground if pressure is lost in half the brake system. In this latter case, a piston inside the distribution block is pushed all the way to one end by hydraulic pressure, which causes it to touch the pin on the plastic terminal, grounding it. Obviously, any short to ground in any of these wires will also cause the light to illuminate. This is a brute force trace-the-wires troubleshooting problem.
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Old January 17th, 2019, 12:33 PM
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Brainfart, on the 2 wires under the hood, sorry.
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Old January 17th, 2019, 12:54 PM
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Hehe

Thanks so much! I will start the search...
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Old February 18th, 2019, 11:26 AM
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So after a few weeks of freezing cold, i found time to start the search.
when i disconnect the wire of the parking-brake the light stays on.
BUT when i disconnect the wire of the combination-valve the light goes off ! Does that mean now that there is something actually wrong with with the braking system? Or could it still come from an electrical issue?
The car still brakes, and the the reservoir doesnt lose fluid(or is that because the combination valve already excluded the failing brake line?)
Front disc and back drum brakes

greetings
M
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Old February 18th, 2019, 01:46 PM
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Im sorry it is actually the wire to the distribution block... i havent found any combination valve yet...
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Old February 18th, 2019, 03:23 PM
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Chances are based on your first post explaining the cover boot was pulled out a bit and the light on, you lost fluid and there was enough differential pressure between the front and the rear to cause the shuttle switch to activate. Pull the front drum assy's and check for leaks.
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Old February 18th, 2019, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LomitaToHamburg
Im sorry it is actually the wire to the distribution block... i havent found any combination valve yet...
There is no combination valve on a 1967 Cutlass from the factory, only a distribution block. GM did not start using the combo valve until the 1971 model year on disc brake cars. Drum brake cars NEVER have a combination valve.

The distribution block has an internal piston that moves one way or the other if there is a pressure differential between the front and back halves of the brake system. Once the piston moves, it touches the electrical contact and shorts to ground, turning on the BRAKE idiot light. A leak is the most common cause of a pressure differential, however if there is no visible external leak, it can also be caused by a master cylinder with a weak seal on one of the pistons.



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Old February 20th, 2019, 02:36 PM
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Job

thanks a lot for the information and help so far.
i will inspect further for leakage on the whole braking system.
btw the car does have DISC brakes in front (stock)

waiting for better temperatures

greetings
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