1964 Jetstar I brakes
#2
Welcome. I gave you your own thread because your question covers a wider range of topics than just the brake booster. The very first thing you should do is get a factory Chassis Service Manual, which has all the info you need. Don't waste your money on reprints or PDFs, pay for an original paper copy. Note that in 1964 it's a five volume set.
Your Jetstar I is a relatively unique model, and many parts sources won't list it separately. Just be aware that your car is really just another trim level on the Eighty Eight model line, and with one exception, every other 1963-64 Olds Eighty Eight model uses exactly the same chassis, suspension, steering, and brakes. The exception is the 1964 Jetstar 88, which unfortunately is often confused with the Jetstar I. The J88 was the loss leader of the Eighty Eight line and used the smaller brakes from the Cutlass line. Be wary when buying parts, as many vendors get this wrong if you search for parts for you Jetstar I. For example, if you search on RockAuto for front brake shoes for your Jetstar I, they list the 9.5" shoes used on the J88, not the correct 11" brake shoes. On the other hand, if you search for brake shoes for a 64 Dynamic, it DOES show the correct 11 x 2.5 front shoes. I would suggest that you just search for parts for a Dynamic or Super 88 to avoid this issue. Good luck.
Your Jetstar I is a relatively unique model, and many parts sources won't list it separately. Just be aware that your car is really just another trim level on the Eighty Eight model line, and with one exception, every other 1963-64 Olds Eighty Eight model uses exactly the same chassis, suspension, steering, and brakes. The exception is the 1964 Jetstar 88, which unfortunately is often confused with the Jetstar I. The J88 was the loss leader of the Eighty Eight line and used the smaller brakes from the Cutlass line. Be wary when buying parts, as many vendors get this wrong if you search for parts for you Jetstar I. For example, if you search on RockAuto for front brake shoes for your Jetstar I, they list the 9.5" shoes used on the J88, not the correct 11" brake shoes. On the other hand, if you search for brake shoes for a 64 Dynamic, it DOES show the correct 11 x 2.5 front shoes. I would suggest that you just search for parts for a Dynamic or Super 88 to avoid this issue. Good luck.
#3
Hey Lindz-
I rebuilt all of the drum brakes on mine and had to make a couple of adjustments to a couple of the parts. First, I needed to grind a little of the corner off of the new cylinders. While they were the same style/function, the ones I had were just slightly too large to fit nicely into the space. I think I ground about of an 1/8" of of the upper corners to fit them into the curve of the backing plate. Second, I could not find the original self-adjustors and one of mine was toast. I bought a pair that I needed to grind down one of the grooved "buttons" to make it fit properly. I just matched the one good one that I had. Works just fine. Third, when I went to my mechanic to give it the once over and check my work, he informed my that my metal brake lines that go to the rear wheels needed to be replaced. One of these lines needed to be custom made because, as you well know, Jetstar 1's can sometimes be an annoyingly unique beast. Also, now that I've had to finally rebuild my brake booster, I'm using Steve Gregory (brakeboosters@sti.net). He's been great on advice but he tells me he's retiring shortly. Best of luck. let me know if you have any other questions or suggestions in mapping the vacuum lines!
Brian
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-64-Old...pPuc:rk:1:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-OLDS-...S!-1:rk:4:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/both-sides-...S!-1:rk:5:pf:0
I rebuilt all of the drum brakes on mine and had to make a couple of adjustments to a couple of the parts. First, I needed to grind a little of the corner off of the new cylinders. While they were the same style/function, the ones I had were just slightly too large to fit nicely into the space. I think I ground about of an 1/8" of of the upper corners to fit them into the curve of the backing plate. Second, I could not find the original self-adjustors and one of mine was toast. I bought a pair that I needed to grind down one of the grooved "buttons" to make it fit properly. I just matched the one good one that I had. Works just fine. Third, when I went to my mechanic to give it the once over and check my work, he informed my that my metal brake lines that go to the rear wheels needed to be replaced. One of these lines needed to be custom made because, as you well know, Jetstar 1's can sometimes be an annoyingly unique beast. Also, now that I've had to finally rebuild my brake booster, I'm using Steve Gregory (brakeboosters@sti.net). He's been great on advice but he tells me he's retiring shortly. Best of luck. let me know if you have any other questions or suggestions in mapping the vacuum lines!
Brian
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-64-Old...pPuc:rk:1:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-OLDS-...S!-1:rk:4:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/both-sides-...S!-1:rk:5:pf:0
#4
Brake lines (and every other part of the brake system) on a Jetstar I are exactly the same as those on a Dynamic or Super 88 of the same year.
#5
Ah, gotcha. My mechanic, who has rebuilt his own 64 Olds was having a difficult finding the one that I believe runs to the rear passenger side (maybe driver side-cant remember). I had also had a hell of a hard time finding that one replacement line. He, to save sanity and time, custom fit one. No biggie.
#6
Lindz-
as you put all of the pieces together, Id love to hear what you find to be readily available and what proves to be a challenge (if anything). I searched high and low for some of these things and had a hard time digging up some exact matches. I wish I had known all of the same parts were on the 88 model!
as you put all of the pieces together, Id love to hear what you find to be readily available and what proves to be a challenge (if anything). I searched high and low for some of these things and had a hard time digging up some exact matches. I wish I had known all of the same parts were on the 88 model!
#7
Hello to both of you ----
Maybe you are aware, but maybe you are not ------
I have ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING in stock for the 1964 Olds 88 and Jetstar I ---
including N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ Brake Shoes (CRITICAL on this application to not use this new garbage they are forced to sell....) and
N.O.S. KELSEY - HAYES " Big Bell" Brake Drums and other N.O.S. very U.S.A. made Brake Drums......
Also have Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, the 100 % correct Brake Hardware..... and a whooooooooole lot more......
Always best to simply CALL ME ---- Craig 516 - 485 - 1935 ..... West Hempstead, New York...... HappyBirthday!!!!!
Maybe you are aware, but maybe you are not ------
I have ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING in stock for the 1964 Olds 88 and Jetstar I ---
including N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ Brake Shoes (CRITICAL on this application to not use this new garbage they are forced to sell....) and
N.O.S. KELSEY - HAYES " Big Bell" Brake Drums and other N.O.S. very U.S.A. made Brake Drums......
Also have Wheel Cylinders, Brake Hoses, the 100 % correct Brake Hardware..... and a whooooooooole lot more......
Always best to simply CALL ME ---- Craig 516 - 485 - 1935 ..... West Hempstead, New York...... HappyBirthday!!!!!
Last edited by mpolds; January 15th, 2019 at 12:39 PM. Reason: typo
#8
https://www.facebook.com/BoosterDewey/
#9
Welcome. I gave you your own thread because your question covers a wider range of topics than just the brake booster. The very first thing you should do is get a factory Chassis Service Manual, which has all the info you need. Don't waste your money on reprints or PDFs, pay for an original paper copy. Note that in 1964 it's a five volume set.
#10
#11
Update...... so, not too bad and I think we were able to find or at least order something for most of the parts we needed.
Slight Issues:
I would feel better if I could replace one of the rear drums, but having a hard time finding one.
We cant locate the long brake line to the rear either, but will probably just make one as well.
Never could get the bearing assemblies to separate from the front drums??
And it hasnt broke yet but the nut for the speedometer connection is getting a little sketchy, hopefully not an issue?
Oh and attempting to reuse the booster, for now.
Slight Issues:
I would feel better if I could replace one of the rear drums, but having a hard time finding one.
We cant locate the long brake line to the rear either, but will probably just make one as well.
Never could get the bearing assemblies to separate from the front drums??
And it hasnt broke yet but the nut for the speedometer connection is getting a little sketchy, hopefully not an issue?
Oh and attempting to reuse the booster, for now.
Last edited by Lindz; January 21st, 2019 at 07:20 AM.
#12
Update...... so, not too bad and I think we were able to find or at least order something for most of the parts we needed.
Slight Issues:
I would feel better if I could replace one of the rear drums, but having a hard time finding one.
We cant locate the long brake line to the rear either, but will probably just make one as well.
Never could get the bearing assemblies to separate from the front drums??
And it hasnt broke yet but the nut for the speedometer connection is getting a little sketchy, hopefully not an issue?
Oh and attempting to reuse the booster, for now.
Slight Issues:
I would feel better if I could replace one of the rear drums, but having a hard time finding one.
We cant locate the long brake line to the rear either, but will probably just make one as well.
Never could get the bearing assemblies to separate from the front drums??
And it hasnt broke yet but the nut for the speedometer connection is getting a little sketchy, hopefully not an issue?
Oh and attempting to reuse the booster, for now.
The front drums are retained to the hubs with the wheel studs. You need to press the studs out of the hub/drum assembly first, then you can separate the drum from the hub. Unless you need to replace the drum, there is no reason to do this. The drums can be turned while still attached to the hubs.
#13
These cars aren't popular enough for a vendor to sell pre-bent line kits. Some of the line vendors will make you a line if you send the old one as a pattern. Frankly, I find it easy to just make my own.
The front drums are retained to the hubs with the wheel studs. You need to press the studs out of the hub/drum assembly first, then you can separate the drum from the hub. Unless you need to replace the drum, there is no reason to do this. The drums can be turned while still attached to the hubs.
The front drums are retained to the hubs with the wheel studs. You need to press the studs out of the hub/drum assembly first, then you can separate the drum from the hub. Unless you need to replace the drum, there is no reason to do this. The drums can be turned while still attached to the hubs.
#14
Lindz said "....I would feel better if I could replace one of the rear drums, but having a hard time finding one...."
Just one thing: It's up to you in the end but in my experience, regular rear drums of the correct size perform just as well as the original 'mixing bowl' size drums which are OE. The heat dissipation afforded by the larger mixing bowls might not have relevance for your use, they don't for mine. Standard drums of correct size from a range of big car years will actually fit and work well for normal driving.
Just one thing: It's up to you in the end but in my experience, regular rear drums of the correct size perform just as well as the original 'mixing bowl' size drums which are OE. The heat dissipation afforded by the larger mixing bowls might not have relevance for your use, they don't for mine. Standard drums of correct size from a range of big car years will actually fit and work well for normal driving.
#15
Lindz said "....I would feel better if I could replace one of the rear drums, but having a hard time finding one...."
Just one thing: It's up to you in the end but in my experience, regular rear drums of the correct size perform just as well as the original 'mixing bowl' size drums which are OE. The heat dissipation afforded by the larger mixing bowls might not have relevance for your use, they don't for mine. Standard drums of correct size from a range of big car years will actually fit and work well for normal driving.
Just one thing: It's up to you in the end but in my experience, regular rear drums of the correct size perform just as well as the original 'mixing bowl' size drums which are OE. The heat dissipation afforded by the larger mixing bowls might not have relevance for your use, they don't for mine. Standard drums of correct size from a range of big car years will actually fit and work well for normal driving.
#16
These guys may be able to point you in the right direction https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/
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