Front brakes dragging
#1
Front brakes dragging
Hope somebody can help. I install a complete hydroboost system with adj. Prop. Valve and master cylinder from CPP in my 65 Olds 442 disc/drum setup.
I notice the same drag [ driver site more than passenger] at the front tires as before I change from power to Manuel and now to hydr boost.
I now renew the discs/ brake lines / brake hoses / brake caliper driver site/driver site caliper bracket. Rear brakes I renew for a few years.
ONLY OLD PARTS IN THE SYSTEM IS THE SPINDELS... Preowner change from drum to disk.
Do you ever heart that the spindel can be the reason for this dragging front brakes.
I notice the same drag [ driver site more than passenger] at the front tires as before I change from power to Manuel and now to hydr boost.
I now renew the discs/ brake lines / brake hoses / brake caliper driver site/driver site caliper bracket. Rear brakes I renew for a few years.
ONLY OLD PARTS IN THE SYSTEM IS THE SPINDELS... Preowner change from drum to disk.
Do you ever heart that the spindel can be the reason for this dragging front brakes.
#2
There is nothing in the spindle that can cause this.
Define "dragging". There will always be some amount of drag on the rotors by the calipers. These are not modern low-drag calipers; they are designed to self adjust by forcing the pads against the rotor. Note that this inherent drag is why Olds offered RPO JL7 manual drum brakes on the 1970 W-cars for drag racing - the drums can be adjusted to eliminate all drag, the calipers cannot.
If this really is excessive drag, then the possible causes are a problem with the calipers (improperly installed seals, rough pistons, internal rust), a problem with the hoses (damaged internal liner acting as a one-way valve), a problem with the combo valve (or metering valve, depending on which system the OP used when converting), or a problem with the master cylinder/booster (most likely an adjustment problem with the pushrod that prevents the M/C from releasing fully).
Define "dragging". There will always be some amount of drag on the rotors by the calipers. These are not modern low-drag calipers; they are designed to self adjust by forcing the pads against the rotor. Note that this inherent drag is why Olds offered RPO JL7 manual drum brakes on the 1970 W-cars for drag racing - the drums can be adjusted to eliminate all drag, the calipers cannot.
If this really is excessive drag, then the possible causes are a problem with the calipers (improperly installed seals, rough pistons, internal rust), a problem with the hoses (damaged internal liner acting as a one-way valve), a problem with the combo valve (or metering valve, depending on which system the OP used when converting), or a problem with the master cylinder/booster (most likely an adjustment problem with the pushrod that prevents the M/C from releasing fully).
#3
There is nothing in the spindle that can cause this.
Define "dragging". There will always be some amount of drag on the rotors by the calipers. These are not modern low-drag calipers; they are designed to self adjust by forcing the pads against the rotor. Note that this inherent drag is why Olds offered RPO JL7 manual drum brakes on the 1970 W-cars for drag racing - the drums can be adjusted to eliminate all drag, the calipers cannot.
If this really is excessive drag, then the possible causes are a problem with the calipers (improperly installed seals, rough pistons, internal rust), a problem with the hoses (damaged internal liner acting as a one-way valve), a problem with the combo valve (or metering valve, depending on which system the OP used when converting), or a problem with the master cylinder/booster (most likely an adjustment problem with the pushrod that prevents the M/C from releasing fully).
Define "dragging". There will always be some amount of drag on the rotors by the calipers. These are not modern low-drag calipers; they are designed to self adjust by forcing the pads against the rotor. Note that this inherent drag is why Olds offered RPO JL7 manual drum brakes on the 1970 W-cars for drag racing - the drums can be adjusted to eliminate all drag, the calipers cannot.
If this really is excessive drag, then the possible causes are a problem with the calipers (improperly installed seals, rough pistons, internal rust), a problem with the hoses (damaged internal liner acting as a one-way valve), a problem with the combo valve (or metering valve, depending on which system the OP used when converting), or a problem with the master cylinder/booster (most likely an adjustment problem with the pushrod that prevents the M/C from releasing fully).
ALL The parts you write obove are NEW.....
From my feeling {tires bolt on the car} ....the passenger site is a minimal drag which is okay but the driver site is a little to much drag.
Can the brakes {piston diameter} be the reason... I have a not stock rear end but same stile drum.
Last edited by STLCRZY; January 6th, 2019 at 03:27 AM.
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