1963 f-85 front drum brakes

Old December 22nd, 2018, 06:22 AM
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1963 f-85 front drum brakes

I am trying to figure out what the part numbers are for the front wheel cylinders are for my 63 f-85 with power brakes. I want to be able to drive this thing for a month or two prior to to trying to convert to front disk brakes. Myself I think the front power brake wheel cylinders are a differant size then non power brakes
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 07:13 AM
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The only difference is the master cylinder. The fronts will be 1 inch bore and the rears are 7/8 bore. The kits are cheap on Rock auto. You will likely have to rebuild them with the cheep kits. If it has sit for a really long time the pistons will likely be stuck. I take them off the car and heat them up in a vice and drive them out. You can push them all the way through from one side. Just have to use a small hone to clean the inside of the cylinder. Complete wheel cylinders for these cars are usually expensive when you find them.
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 07:15 AM
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Also, on every 61-63 car I have had, the rubber hosed were bad and had to change them. The inside brakes down and swells shut or clogs up somehow.
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 07:21 AM
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The parts book shows that all 1961-63 F-85s use the same 1" front wheel cylinders for both manual and power.
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 07:48 AM
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Thank you, the master cylinder is a 1-1/8" bore for the power brakes versus a 1" bore for none power brakes according to my book. The power brake option on this car is not a normal looking booster I need to be cautious that I don’t look for the wrong part. So that means 1" for the front 7/8" for the rear is a money saver for me! Thank you again for your help
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 63 f-85 215
Thank you, the master cylinder is a 1-1/8" bore for the power brakes versus a 1" bore for none power brakes according to my book.
Correct. The smaller M/C allows a lower pedal force for manual brakes, but at the expense of more pedal travel. With the power booster, the M/C can be made larger for reduced pedal travel since the power booster reduces the required pedal force.
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 08:12 AM
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I haven't worked on many older Oldsmobile’s like this one,but I did a lot of work on 50's,60's and 70's cars. In the mid 70's I went towards Datsun’s MG's and Austin’s back in the old days. I like odd cars.
When I found this 63 f-85 I just feel in love with it so I need to reeducate myself on everything. I would think the part numbers for the wheel cylinders fit other GM cars too. Knowing the bore size narrows my search down. I can’t wait to drive this with confidence.
One thing I think I figured out on this f-85 is the power brake booster should be the same below as the 55-57 ford Fairlane. I have my below working well right now most of the issue was the air release adjustment…I got lucky there.Thank you again
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 63 f-85 215
I would think the part numbers for the wheel cylinders fit other GM cars too.
The 61-63 Y-body cars are unique within GM and share almost nothing with other GM cars. Only the 61-63 F-85 and Buick Skylark/Special share brake parts. Even the Pontiac Tempest of that vintage is different.
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 08:59 AM
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It is possible that Craig at Mobile Parts will have new ones but not sure. The 61-63 fronts are not easy to find. -- 516 - 485 - 1935
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Old December 22nd, 2018, 09:24 AM
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thank you, I will contact him next if the parts house in NJ doesnt have them. according to there web site thye have a set for me but I will not know until Monday
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Old December 30th, 2018, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jensenracing77
Also, on every 61-63 car I have had, the rubber hosed were bad and had to change them. The inside brakes down and swells shut or clogs up somehow.
Good information, thank you for sharing it with me. I have new lines on order. I think that’s what is happing to my 63. I am going to try to make time today to pull a wheel cylinder. There is a parts house here in Delaware that has a lot of old new stock I am going to see if we can match the front wheel cylinder up with what they have in stock, long shot but never hurts to try.
Pretty big mystery to me with why the lines would clog. I see in my book that the brake fluid is called Super No.11 and it looks like in 1964 they renamed it supreme 11 (dot 3) makes me wonder if the two were compatible? I have used dot 2 and dot 3, I guess now dot 4 works with natural and synthetic rubber? Total guess is gm tried a synthetic rubber that didn’t work out with dot 3?Thank you again
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Old December 30th, 2018, 07:32 AM
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I think mostly it is the really old rubber and inner tube that brakes down and swells shut more so than get clogged.
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Old December 31st, 2018, 02:17 AM
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Pulled my wheel cylinders. I think I got lucky they arent locked up. Also looks like new brake lines.
I picked up wheel cylinder rebuild kits and ordered new lines. It doesnt look like the bleedes have been touched in years so I am soaking them in penatrating oil now. Next weekend I'll put the car back toghther and see what happens.
as always thank you and eveyone who chimed in on this. You realy helped me out a lot.
PS
My book say the wheel cylinders are 1-1/8" for the front, but they are 1" as someone indacated to me on this site. goes to show you you can not beat experiance!
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Old January 2nd, 2019, 08:27 AM
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Seems like you have spent more than a couple weeks running around, ordering from the china made world of parts --- when you couldhave called me from the beginning......
JensenRacing77 (Eric ---- thank you, Eric....) gave you my phone number immediately...
516 - 485 - 1935........ Craig , West Hempstead, New York.
If you need brake shoes ---- I have N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++....... If you don't call me on them ---
you have REALLY done the wrong thing to your car.
Happy New Year.
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Old January 5th, 2019, 06:03 AM
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No, I have not ordered any china parts. I have done my home homework though, with a lot of help from others such as yourself. I don’t plan on jumping on the band wagon of replacing parts until I understand why I am doing it. Only thing I have bought for this car has been the wheel cylinder rebuild kits ($17.00) and they came from a new old stock local source in farm country west of Oxford, PA.
.As I drive this car no doubt I will reach out to you for parts once I land on what I need. Right now, I am trying to undo what the clown I bought it from did to it. For myself I have worked on cars since the early 70's I went to ATC (Automotive Training Center) in Exton, PA. in the mid 70's but I ended up going to sea on oil tankers after I had a head on in a Austin Healy( kind of changed my world a little) instead of turning wrenches on cars I fired boilers and ran diesels engines (unlimited horse power)
I have forgotten a lot and cars like this get me thinking. Such a cool car with major history behind it. Anyone can do a engine swap or unbolt and replace parts, I love to know the theory behind on why its broke and is it an opperturinty or even worth it to make it a little better.
Just motor oil alone has changed so much without zinc and when the 63 was built transmission oil had whale oil in it. It’s the little things that get me going. I recall a trick from the old days of adding a pint of brake fluid to the automatic transmission and driving the car for a week or so prior to changing the fluid. The brake fluids pull the moisture out of the transmission fluid and brakes down the shellac aka film in the valve body. I don’t know if it works on newer cars but it did the trick in the old ones.
Now I am older I get a chance do what I always liked doing and with the internet many pepole tell what I should do but they arent always right, My 65 nova pepole told me many thing I didnt do or never would do to a old 327.and my 69 siata spring I am starting to think I am one of few that knows how to work on them anymore but I help anyone who asks via internent
I will be in touch when I understand what I need.Just a lot of fun to learn about things from pepole like yourself.
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