Balance valve leaking - upgrade?
#1
Balance valve leaking - upgrade?
hey guys,
that balance valve is leaking on my 1970 toronado so theres always air comming out of the rear cylinders while brake bleeding (see pic). can't find any replacements but i hear that with 1971 model theres some sort of a combined distribution block that includes the balance valve.
since i'm not familiar with these certain valves, could you guys point me in the right direction which distribution block (maybe from inline tube) i should buy?
i also would like to get rid of the metering valve in the second picture...are there any newer blocks that include these too?
thanks
that balance valve is leaking on my 1970 toronado so theres always air comming out of the rear cylinders while brake bleeding (see pic). can't find any replacements but i hear that with 1971 model theres some sort of a combined distribution block that includes the balance valve.
since i'm not familiar with these certain valves, could you guys point me in the right direction which distribution block (maybe from inline tube) i should buy?
i also would like to get rid of the metering valve in the second picture...are there any newer blocks that include these too?
thanks
#2
Do you actually see brake fluid coming out of your current balance valve? If not, how do you know it's leaking or even the source of the air? Are you sure the air isn't just coming from around the threads of the bleeder screws when you loosen them?
#5
Alternatively, you can pull all that stuff and switch to a 71 and later setup with the common combination valve. The same disc/drum valve was used on a wide variety of GM vehicles from 71 through 77 (or 79? or later?). That will require changing/modifying all your hard lines, though.
I have not seen a separate balance valve like that available. I expect it's just a proportioning valve, so you should be able to replace it with an aftermarket prop valve as well.
I have not seen a separate balance valve like that available. I expect it's just a proportioning valve, so you should be able to replace it with an aftermarket prop valve as well.
#6
That particular valve is a couple of machined parts that screw together with a valve spool and spring on the inside. The seals are either flat washers or o-rings. Re-plumbing the car for a different valve is a waste of time. Just rebuild the valve with new seals. Problem solved. We've spent more time talking about it than it takes to actually do it.
#7
That particular valve is a couple of machined parts that screw together with a valve spool and spring on the inside. The seals are either flat washers or o-rings. Re-plumbing the car for a different valve is a waste of time. Just rebuild the valve with new seals. Problem solved. We've spent more time talking about it than it takes to actually do it.
didn't know its such a big job to go the combination valve route, but i guess the inlets / outlets have a different size compare to the stock system, right?
#8
Don't know about sizes, but certainly different locations. You can get pre-bent lines from the usual manufacturers that tend to be "close".
I didn't know that valve comes apart that easily! If you can find good orings, then go for it.
I didn't know that valve comes apart that easily! If you can find good orings, then go for it.
#9
so i pulled the valve today. some crud came out of it but almost no brake fluid.
i dont know how these valves work, but where my screwdriver is pointing..there is a hole and a second one on the opposite side. you can see through the valve there o.O
looks like the outer o-ring is missing?
i dont know how these valves work, but where my screwdriver is pointing..there is a hole and a second one on the opposite side. you can see through the valve there o.O
looks like the outer o-ring is missing?
#10
ok i replaced the missing o-ring with the size i measured...which was obviously the wrong size, so i put a smaller diamter o-ring on.
took some time to bleed the brakes but as it came to the point where i was almost ready with bleeding all the air out of the system it started to leak again...o-ring too big i guess.
why does this valve even need these holes??
took some time to bleed the brakes but as it came to the point where i was almost ready with bleeding all the air out of the system it started to leak again...o-ring too big i guess.
why does this valve even need these holes??
Last edited by EightballZ; April 10th, 2016 at 05:13 AM.
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