Replacing the metal dash panel
#1
Replacing the metal dash panel
Hey guys, I'm in a rather weird situation. My car is a 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, it was parked in 1988 and in around 06 it was pulled out of the barn (because the barn collapsed) it was still solid and no floor rot, so it sat from 06 until a few months ago outside (aka, water got in) and while it didnt rot the floors, the moisture did all kinds of damage (interior totally trashed, not even seat frames reusable, dash rusted out) but the floors are still 100% and for the most part the car is very solid. Now, biggest (and weirdest) problem. The metal part of the dash is shot. on the bottom of the dash above where your knees would be (drive side) the metal has rotted. Structurally everything is still fine, just the bottom inch or so of sheet metal. Can I simply unbolt this part and replace it, or do I have to drill out spot welds and brace the body and all kinds of hellish crap?
#2
Not as bad as you might think, especially if the interiors out anyway. The dash has no structural role in a hardtop like the cutlass S. Find a donor car drill the welds out and transfer it to your car. The worst part will be taking everything out of your way. What a weird rust situation you have, never seen one like that. How about some pics?
#4
There's nothing to unbolt. Its spot welded in. You can cut a section out and butt weld a donor piece in or cut out the whole dash and spot weld a donor. If you take the whole dash out you're going to have to deal with the VIN plate issue. Before you decide what to do with the lower section check the base of the windshield channel because you're probably going to find that it's rotted as well.
#6
Not as bad as you might think, especially if the interiors out anyway. The dash has no structural role in a hardtop like the cutlass S. Find a donor car drill the welds out and transfer it to your car. The worst part will be taking everything out of your way. What a weird rust situation you have, never seen one like that. How about some pics?
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Hard to believe the dash looks that that when the floors look like this! (after a good wire brushing and vacuuming)
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There's nothing to unbolt. Its spot welded in. You can cut a section out and butt weld a donor piece in or cut out the whole dash and spot weld a donor. If you take the whole dash out you're going to have to deal with the VIN plate issue. Before you decide what to do with the lower section check the base of the windshield channel because you're probably going to find that it's rotted as well.
I may be giving you a call later on, theres a few other parts I need that are '69 specific so I'll save your phone number. Thanks!
#7
Start by removing the stainless trim piece at the base of the windshield, but yes, to see how bad it is, the windshield has to come out.
#8
I'll probably remove the trim and check it out, but being I don't have a garage and its winter in NY I'm probably not gonna pull the windshield yet. It definitely needs some rust repair on the back window passenger side ledge, and the top roof skin so I wouldn't doubt it needing the bottom window channel.
#9
If you pull the lower outer windshield trim, that will give you a clue about how bad or not bad it may be. If it looks a bit crusty, you might as well pull the windshield & crack or break it in the process & take a look at that complete channel to be sure. New glass is around $175.00 or so here in Indy from a local glass shop.
#10
If you pull the lower outer windshield trim, that will give you a clue about how bad or not bad it may be. If it looks a bit crusty, you might as well pull the windshield & crack or break it in the process & take a look at that complete channel to be sure. New glass is around $175.00 or so here in Indy from a local glass shop.
#11
My suggestion would be to remove the windshield to see what you have. I did a 1966 Impala, it was a bone dry AL car, but still rusted at the base. If there is little to no perforation, you rebuild it using duraglas marine filler. I have replaced the entire area working around the sacred VIN area. It is a skilled welding job. You need to have a windshield to test fit along the way as a guide. I have a 1969 donor car. I just sold the dash, so I can cut the whole structure out if needed.
#12
My suggestion would be to remove the windshield to see what you have. I did a 1966 Impala, it was a bone dry AL car, but still rusted at the base. If there is little to no perforation, you rebuild it using duraglas marine filler. I have replaced the entire area working around the sacred VIN area. It is a skilled welding job. You need to have a windshield to test fit along the way as a guide. I have a 1969 donor car. I just sold the dash, so I can cut the whole structure out if needed.
#13
Yamaha; Here is what I have; 1969 Cutlass S convertible. Barney Rubble car. It does have a solid steel dash area structure. I will have to pull the windshield to see if the base is still solid. decent rear bumper, trunk lid, plastic grilles/housings. I am keeping convertible parts. All else up for grabs. Upstate 14505
#14
Yamaha; Here is what I have; 1969 Cutlass S convertible. Barney Rubble car. It does have a solid steel dash area structure. I will have to pull the windshield to see if the base is still solid. decent rear bumper, trunk lid, plastic grilles/housings. I am keeping convertible parts. All else up for grabs. Upstate 14505
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