HWYSTR455

What options do I have for a OAI hood for a 71-72? Which are the best, who makes them, and is there any kind of a wait for them? I don't want to spend 3k on a hood, though do want a steel frame and bolt-on. Are 70 hoods the same? Anyone use the Parts Place ones?

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HWYSTR455

No comments, surprising, figured some here would be able to chime in...

I called Thorton a few mins ago, and it's true, they are doing a run right now, and the mold they are using is now all steel, making for a superior product ($2450)

http://thorntonmusclecars.com/products/hood

Here's their' Facebook page, has tons of pics of the hood:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Thornt...52463904791712

Another option I found is FiberConcepts, is supposed to be a good quality product, called, and the person I spoke with said it's minimal prep, and very good fitment. Trailing edge does need to be doctored for the trim, and it's a fiberglass frame. It does though have steel reinforcements for the striker plate and hinge area: ($795) (they suggest a 'medium' weight spring as well)

http://www.fiberpartsconcepts.com/1285404.html

The Glasstek hood is all fiberglass, other here have used them, though admit they take considerable work to make fit and look good: ($620) (no provision for a striker plate)

http://www.glasstek.com/Cutlass71-72.htm

Called The Parts Place, no ETA on the steel frame ones they list.

VFN Fiberglass has one, it comes with the ram air box, and a screen already installed, no other info though: ($595)

http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/6880cutlass.htm

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442much

I went with VFN. I mean if it's not original to the car, why pay big buck to get a hood when a cheaper version will do? I paid $500, it fit with only a minor adjustment and I like it. Why pay more for a metal frame - unless the car came with it and the original is damaged. JMO.


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HWYSTR455

That looks great 442much, even the underside too! And I have to agree, not original, no reason to spend big bucks.

But I am torn. The Thorton hoods are way better than originals, in fit, finish, and strength. They use the same process GM uses when making Corvette panels, and understand the cost is reflective. I'm sure they need minimal prep, but dang, $2450.00 is steep. If it takes $1000-1500 prep on a cheap hood though, spending a little extra for the Thorton then does make sense. My car is going to be black, so you can imagine why I'm concerned.

After going back and forth on this topic, I took a shot at the FiberConcepts hood, which is $795. One factor that helped me chose is the wieght, and since it's heavier than most, I figure it will be stronger, and last longer too. Once I get it in, I will take a bunch of pics, and let all know what it takes for fit and finish.


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stevengerard

2450 seems cheap for that hood but I agree with 442 much, I have a neighbor who has a 70 cutlass with an all fiberglass hood - it looks great. Few can tell the difference unless you open the hood and even then the originals weren't perfect either. I'd save the 2000 and buy a repo

HWYSTR455

Well, keep in mind, prep work = labor time = money, and you have to calculate that into the total cost of the hood. I've heard of people having to do over 100 hours on an aftermarket hood, and that's going to put you close to the Thorton cost. Thorton claims you can 'almost' bolt on and shoot their' hoods, and that can save a lot.

Lots of people just plain live with the waves and cracks in fiberglass hoods, because it takes a lot of labor to correct. Pay attention to fender to hood gaps and fitment next time you're looking at other's cars with glass hoods and you'll see what I mean.

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HWYSTR455

Here's another place that offers hoods, and they have what they call a 'perimeter frame' that strengthens it.

http://www.carhoods.com/ ($649) (Choose Cutlass in the left frame)

They also offer a ram air box that I believe comes by default on the 442 hood, but it's not even close to the original looking.

The FiberConcepts one I chose does have the box, the box 'looks' like the factory, as does the fiberglass under frame. Not that it was that much of a factor for me, but it's at least an attempt!

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stevengerard

though look at every w25 car that is an original hood and they all seem to dip near the drivers side fender, everyone of them. And to me if I fixed that I'd be taking away from the originality of my car. Though the hood is way straighter than it ever was - puddles used to form on the hood when I washed it, no more.

HWYSTR455

Very good point, and these days, many 'over restore' their' cars, detracting from the originallity. Some want that though, to each their' own I guess.

The Thorton hoods would be considered one of those over-restored things in my opinion. For my project, that would work, but for a numbers-matching, you'd probably get dinged on it.

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stevengerard

tough call because I have spent a lot of time myself finding the "right" original parts and my hood is really "over restored" as it is straight as an arrow. I don't care about NOS as once they are on they are not NOS but if one pops up at a reasonable price I'll buy it (found an NOS heater control valve for $14.99 cheaper than a NAPA replacement). Good used works just fine for me as well and yes I have lots of reproduction stuff on my car - I just couldn't see trying to spend the time or money on original Pearl interior parts when so much of it is reproduced.

Enjoy the car and do what you want to do - I for one see nothing wrong with the inexpensive ram air hoods, they look great at 10 feet at 10 mph

costpenn

Please let me know how your Fiber Concepts hood looks - I just had one picked up today in Warminster PA and am drop shipping to my painter in McKinney Texas.

hinz57

Yes, please keep us informed about your hood. I was contemplating the Thornton or the Fiber Concepts for the same reasons you've covered. I had previously posted to see if anyone had tried the Fiber Concepts hood but no one had. I had found their hood on ebay under the user "fiberglashoods".

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-oai-hood.html

HWYSTR455

Promise, will go up to the shop once delivered and take a bunch of pics and give an overall review. One area that I was trying to eyeball on the photos on the website and on the ebay auction is the scoop openings where it meets the pan. They looked a little choppy, but may have just been the pic.

hinz57 - That link is where I started the homework on that hood, fyi, so thank you on that!

costpenn - Ah! You're the guy who ordered on the 13th then! We both called Rob mins apart to give shipping info! Coincidence!

Rob, the owner of FiberConcepts, seems like a straight-shooter, and was pleasant to deal with. That's a good sign in my book, so we'll see what the product looks like. He did mention that one should use 'medium duty' springs on the hinges, even if the factory ones work. I bought some of the Hardwood #210 springs, fyi, and have new hinges, so should be the best-case scenario.

I need to update my build thread, been slacking on that! Will do so this weekend for sure...

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dc2x4drvr

Some of the all fiberglass hoods are just a little shorter than OEM, which jumps out at shows,and they require very light springs.

507OLDS

Every hood will need prepwork,no matter whos it is.Some need less,some need more.As far as fitment issues,even the GM hoods needed tweaking when they were installed back then.As far as the front edge sagging,you can have that problem on the GM ones,or any of the aftermarket ones,or you might not have any problems at all.I have originals that don't,and the Glasstek hood on my 72 fits very nice.There are also some issues with the rear corners sticking up too high.As far as the contruction goes,there are some of the all-glass repops,like the Glasstek,that copy the underside of a GM hood,by making the underside bracing & airbox out of glass,whereas some of the cheaper hoods just have a rough finish,with no bracing or box.The ones that The Parts Place are having made,do have the steel undeside,but they are noticably different in appearance.

HWYSTR455

I agree, all will need prep work, some more than others. You look at those new Thorton ones though, and I would say very little. Those things are about as close as you can get to bolt on and spray, no kidding. The process they use now is all new, steel dies, and is the same process new vette panels are made. Still not sure it justifies te cost of one, but when you think of what a new panel for a vette would cost, maybe it's totally reasonable.

I've been hearing pretty OK stuff about the GlassTek hoods, and in general, would probably tell others to consider one of those when searching. I realize others, especially the cheaper ones, will require more work, though most won't care too much about appearance. (underside)

Well, like I said, leap of faith on the one I got, so we'll see! Certainly appreciate everyone's input, sure this thread will also serve others when searching too, was my original intent. (I couldn't find any threads that had all the manufacturer's and input in one place, this should help some).

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72 w29 all green

If you want a hood that looks factory on the outside, but isn't all that functional underneath other than for "ram air", then the Glasstek is fine. If you're a stickler for factory "functionality" (i.e. use of hood latch, washer hoses, underhood lamp, metal screen) then Glasstek isn't the answer. Sure the hood can be modified to accomodate most or all of that along with the trim that goes on the front edge, but like they say nowadays "it is what it is" whereas i say "pay now or pay later".

I bought a Glasstek hood kit from Parts place 6-7 years ago, did a fair amount of bodywork to the scoops and then lost interest (maybe time for craigslist). Looking back on it, I probably should've bought a Thorton hood for the $1200 i think they were getting.

507OLDS

Yes,the Thornton hoods are the next best thing to the GM hoods,and they might now be better.I just had a Thornton hood installed on a customer's 70 442,and it cost about $1,100.00 to prep,paint & stripe it.The car was very deserving of it.

HWYSTR455

That's useful info, gives a basis to judge what others may be in for.

$1200 for a Thorton hood is a deal by the way, even on the 'old' design!

507OLDS - THAT is EXCELLENT info, and is specific to what others would be in for when purchasing a Thorton hood! THANK YOU! Was that a new design, using the new process, or the original molds?

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507OLDS

Whether it's myself,a customer,or just someone inquiring,you always want to look at the final number.What will it cost from start to finish.What will you have spent when it's all done.

HWYSTR455

Exactly! And was looking for info like that, but nowhere to be found. I've heard general numbers, in terms of hours, like, 'It can take up to 100 hours on an aftermarket hood', but never which hood, and examples of how many hours. We need more of that on this thread, will help others dramatically.

And do you remember if it was a newer Thorton, or the original mold?

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HWYSTR455

Thorton new mold teaser pics...

Gary's 2 442-S

I think the hoods from Thornton are just great! There was very little work I had to do to the hood when I got it. I wet sanded the hood with 500 then shot epoxy primer on it,then painted and striped it.The only draw back I had was it took me a year to get one.

HWYSTR455

You have a new design or the previous design?

The new Thorton hoods are at about 7 weeks out, order one and it will be in front of you in less than 8 weeks. Once they are caught up with the pre-orders, it will be much less time to get one. From what I understand, they are going to pump them out until orders stop coming in, then make a few more to have on hand. They can start & stop production at will, and anyone who wants one can get one. Nice.

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scott71

Least you have the option. I paid someone to fix mine after a fire and now it bow's in the middle and doesn't sit any where close to flush because the guy didn't know what he was doing with fiberglass. So now i have a **** load of money in this hood and it looks like garbage. I wish I had never paid him for the work but thats another story for another day. These are all great option only it begins to be not worth the cost when you will never get it out of the car if you throw money at a hood that isn't close to being ready. I have heard good things about that hood that the parts place offers, and it goes on ebay for like 585 with like 150 to ship it... By the way if anyone knows someone who is fantastic with fiberglass in Illinois let me know ........ Thanks

Gary's 2 442-S

not sure if it is the old or new design but I got it last summer. this is what it looks like

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HWYSTR455

gh5168 - Wow, that hood is very nice! The areas around the scoops are defined, the inner frame looks sharp, and the leading edge all looks straight. That's really nice! Even if it is the previous design! Shoot, now I'm curious as to how good the new ones look!

scott71 - I feel your pain bud, have heard so many stories just like yours, and many where they are worse off too. Honestly, in your case, you'd probably be better off buying a new one, and not trying to have someone fix what that guy boogered up.

I've heard good things about the parts place one too, with the fiberglass frame, so I called. They didn't have any on hand, but the way the guy was talking, it's the Glasstek hood. I've heard good things about that one too. Still needs work, but not too much, and they turn out nice. Hear they last pretty good too. That was going to be my choice if it weren't for the fiberconcept one coming into play. That should be at the shop tomorrow by the way, will take pics...

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HWYSTR455

My hood showed up at the body shop, and the guys took a quick look to ensure there was no shipping damage, etc. Their' initial impression is that it's a 'good' one, and the comment was that it will take minimal work to prep, about as much as a stock metal hood would. That sounds promising to me.

Once things move along a little up there at the body shop, and they're at the point they're going to take it out of the box, I'll go up and snap a bunch of pics of it to post.

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jpc647

I wish I could buy one for $1200 now. But nope, they show they are like $2530 now. :/ Sorta pricey for my 350.

HWYSTR455

Yeah, was my thinking too. Let's see how the $795 Fiber Concept one works out, might be a great alternative.

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costpenn

Got my Fiber Concepts hood at the body shop - arrived in pretty good condtion. Like HWYSTR455, my guy said it's a good hood - at least initially. To me, it also looked OK, but will need hood pin holes drilled, front trim pieces (and rear hood molding) will need some massaging to fit correctly, but still, a good value as opposed to the 2500.00 + with freight for the Thorton hood. I'm a little concerned with if the height of the OAI opening is correct. I havent actually measured it yet, and it just might be an illusion due to the white color, but it seems not as "tall" as the OE hoods. Will check and revert.

Fixer_Upper71

Did your guy at the body shop happen to comment on how the fitment was with the hood? How well does the hood line up to the fenders? Is it wavy at all or is it strait? I have a fiberglass hood that has TERIBLE fitment issues and I'm looking for another solution. I talked to Rob at Fiber Concepts last week about buying his hood. He seems like a really nice guy, but being a nice guy doesn't always translate into a quality hood. If I can get some more feedback about the fitment quality of Rob's hood I can make a better educated decision as to which hood to buy next.

costpenn

Will post some answers to your questions after the hood actually get on the car

HWYSTR455

I should have a good set of photos in about a week or so, when they take the hood completely out of the box. Promise to post a bunch of pics guys, as well as once it's on the car. With another poster in the same situation, both with the same hood, we should be able to get some decent opinions on the Fiber Concept hood quality. Hang tight!

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HWYSTR455

Here's a shot of the Fiber Concepts hood initial fit, straight out of the box. The body guys says it's very good, gaps, fender curve, and overall contours. It will require little work to make what he calls 'nice', which is better than what most consider 'show'. He's going over the latch area now, and will get feed back there when done. Overall, so far, I'm very happy with this hood.

I will go up in the next day or so and get better pictures and post them....

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Tony72Cutlass'S'

Looks pretty sweet!

You guys are making me want to replace my old-patched-crappy-louvered hood now..

this could get dangerous.. :P

Cheers,

Tony

HWYSTR455

The body guy also mentioned that fitting the front edge trim was cake, and required minimal effort. He says the fit along the edge of the trim to hood is very good, almost no doctoring.

I will go by tonight and get more info and pics, he was working the latch area one spot he mentioned early on is usually a problem.

He did mention the 'medium' duty springs I purchased (Harwood) were too light, and am bringing a new set of OE replacement springs for him to try.

More to come...

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costpenn

HWYTSTR455 - thanks so much for the update. Please let me know what you wind up with on the springs - I havent ordered any yet and have been wondering if just using my well worn in olds springs might be just about the right amount of tension. Does the height of the actual scoop seem about right to you? I dont have an OE hood to compare it to, but from memory mine seems a little short. Havent even begun installing it yet, so this is really a big help for me.

HWYSTR455

I dropped the OE replacement springs off last night, and got a few more shots. He will let me know about the springs, and will pass it on.

Here's some shots of the fender gaps, the fender arch, leading edge, latch, etc. In these pics, the original hood bumpers were not removed from the fender, so the hood may seem too high in relation to the fender. Once we took out the bumpers, it easily lined up. (We're talking like a 1/16-1/8 inch most in difference).

On the scoops, I really have no way of telling, the factory height or this hood, both are fine to me, and this hood 'looks' right without comparison right next to it.

One thing, the hood does have a slight crease in the center-rear between the scoops, and the body guy says that it was from heat during the bonding process, and easily repaired. Still felt I should point it out to all though.

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HWYSTR455

More pics...


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