HWYSTR455

A couple comments the body guy made that I'm now remembering (coffee kicking in):

* The scoop openings needed a minor touch up to make them even, no biggie

* The trailing edge chrome won't take as much doctoring as he initially thought

* The rear-most hinge mount pad is NOT raised on the hood, so a pair of body shims will need to go between the hinge and the hood. (I will have to check if this is due to the aftermarket hinges or not) He said with the shims painted black, it will be very difficult to see anyway.

* The body guy said that it was the best aftermarket hood he's ever seen. (And he's seen a lot, though not seen a thorton).

* If you want the bracing to look factory, you would have to touch them up some.

* It was actually a benefit to have to fit the striker plate and latch, since in many cases that's what he's seen make fitting difficult.

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507OLDS

All of the hoods,factory or aftermarket,require a shim on the rear hinge bolt,so that is normal.Otherwise the hinge comes very close to digging into the hood,and in most cases,will dig into th hood,if they are not installed.
It sounds like one of the nicer glass hoods.They ALL need work,regardless of who makes them.

HWYSTR455

Well, it's the part of the hinge that the hood attaches to, like the rear part of that flat 'L' channel, it isn't flat, it has a step in it. And the hood doesn't have the step, if you know what I mean. I will try to get a pic of it, probably wont be for a couple days though.....

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507OLDS

Yes,that step is where the shim goes.They did that at the factory.If you didn't have those shims when you removed your old hood,someone lost them previously.

HWYSTR455

My old hood was steel, and didn't need the shims, the hood has the step in it. Are you saying even the steel hoods don't have the step?

507OLDS

All of the hoods came with shims.Even the plain flat steel ones.

ah64pilot

Just for comparison...here are a few pics of the VFN hood I am using on my '72 Supreme. My body guy said it was a great piece, only needed minor modification to make it perfect. The hoods are normally $595 but I got it for $560 with a military discount.











The one spot of glass was a low spot they fixed. Other than that it was a perfect fit. And it looks like the hood latch was the same as the fiberconcepts hood...they had to cut the holes in it for a custom fit.

hinz57

What about the trim on the back of the hood near the windshield? Has any work been done on that yet?

BosMobile

Great pictures,Thanks! I,d like to know if your Fiberconcepts hood came with the place to put the safty latch,or did your body guy cut them.That would be a great advantage,I really didnt want to start cutting on a 750 dollar hood.I noticed the VFN hood had that installed as well.If the body guys did it could you maybe ask some questions about how they measured it out?That's preaty much a one shot deal.Also,where did you get your latches,i need the whole setup [core brackets,springs,twist locks ect...]I,ve talked to Fussic and VFN,about hardware and a hood.They said 4 weeks,how long did you have to wait?Thanks for any info,will send PM if nessicery.BO

507OLDS

I don't run the latch set-up on mine.Just the twist pins.I removed the latch set-up from the core support as well.It's the way I wanted it. On other cars,when I cut out the square hole for the strike,I take a small piece of sheetmetal,fold it in half,and sandwich the glass between it.That way the strike is contacting metal,liek the original hood,not glass,so it won't chip or crack.

BosMobile

Thanks 507,I checked out the fiberconcepts website,and it appears to have the openings precut,and a built in metal renforced plate at the safty latch,and hood hinge.It,s $799+shipping+ box fee.I,m going to call tommorow to see exactly.I raced a guy one nite,he forgot to put in the hood pins,on a perfect black car,he was a tenth or so quicker,so when his hood riped off the car,i drove under it!It made a lasting memory.Since then i knew was going to fabricate some type of safty latch.So it appears this might save me the trouble.This hoods a little more money,but if it comes with the metal latch ,I,m in.Where did you guys get the correct hood springs.I really don,t want to use a broom handle.I thought about heating them with my torch to make them weaker,we,ll just have to see,I,ve got a few extras.Later,BO

HWYSTR455

We must be talking about something else, because I know my steel OE hood didn't have any shims between the hood and the hinge.

I will get some pics as soon as I can to help explain what I was talking about better.

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HWYSTR455

Technically, the secondary latch is a safety inspection requirement, though many states don't have safety inspections for certain classes, like antique-tagged classics. And that safety latch was added to all cars like back in the 40s or something, to prevent the whole hood-flying-up scenario. Personally, I wanted one, especially since this is going to be my daughter's car.

I haven't figured out the hood springs yet, but the body guy is working on it. He has the ones off the old hinges, a set of new OE replacement ones, and he mentioned he might be able to heat them too. He said there's a problem with heating them, was trying to explain it to me, but we were interrupted before he finished. Something about how at a certain height the spring will let go fast or something.

ah64pilot - Thank you for posting information on installing a VFN hood. If you have more pics, underside, etc, please post as well, will provide many others info that will help make decisions. One thing, are the scoop openings cut on that hood?

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507OLDS

They were there before,at some point in time.These were stubby little shims,almost 1/4" thick.They were installed between the hinge & the hood,on the set of holes closer to the windshield.
I would not recommend heating springs.It changes the tension of the spring.If you have a glass over glass hood,then I would try the springs from The Parts Place. If you have a glass over metal hood,then just reuse the springs from the steel hood.
The Harwood springs are made for a Chevelle hood,and those hoods are not as heavy as the Olds hoods,so they will not work.
Just another FYI: A factory OAI hood,or a Thornton hood,or any other OAI hood that has the glass top & steel bottom,will weight more than a plain flat steel hood.The glass over glass hoods are lighter,and therefore need a lighter spring.
I had some concerns myself,about removing the center latch,but after doing some research,and seeing plenty of cars running without them,at speeds over 125mph,I was convinced that it would be fine.I go about 122mph through the traps,and nothing ever moves.Like I said,I have reinstalled the center latch on plenty of other cars,for the factory look & function.Now that I have installed an aluminum core support into the car,I don't have the provisions for the center latch,so now I would have to reinstall the steel core support,to reinstall the latch.I still haven't had any issues with getting the car inspected,and Pennsylvania is pretty strict.

BosMobile

Thanks guys good info ,I called Fiber concepts hoods gonna run right at $1000 to my door.This hood comes with metal braces at the factory latches,hinges.I still want the twist locks ,but if sombody messes with them the hood should survive.I'll be doing some research on the proper low tension springs ,this hood wieghs 45lbs.That should be worth a tenth.Maybe someone will chime in on what there using for springs.I read a article in carcraft where they said he unwound his factory springs for a glass hood on a 78 malibu,But thats all,didnt specify how that was done.I'll let you know what i come up with.Later,BO

hinz57

I hate to be impatient, but any current info on the hood? Personally I am waiting on your results to make my final decision.

HWYSTR455

Well, from my experience, the Fiber Concept hood is money well spent. Quality is great, requires little work, and feel it is only second to the Thorton. The only thing I would like to see from Fiber Concepts is either a recommendation or an offering of hood springs, but that's minor in my opinion. I would recommend the hood to all looking for an affordable alternate to the Thorton hood.

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hinz57

what did you end up doing with regards to the springs?

HWYSTR455

I bought some Parts Place lightweight springs, haven't tried them yet, will let all know how they work.

I have the stock springs on there now, they work, but you have to be careful opening & closing. On opening, if you don't hold it, it will spring open once you get about a 1/3 of the way. On closing, you have th push back and down so it doesn't strain the hood. Otherwise they work fine.

Another comment on the Fiber Concept hood is that it has the opening to route the washer hose through like the factory hood, which is a nice touch.


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HWYSTR455

Anyone have any input regarding cowl seals and OAI hoods? Do you run one or not?

Did the factory use a cowl seal when the OAI hoods were installed?

I tried to install the typical dense foam/rubber cowl seal, and it was too thick, making the rear of the hood not rest flat. Then I ordered the soft foam cowl seal, was better, but still didn't allow the hood to seat properly. Then I trimmed the seal some, still no go.

I was thinking of going to the hardware store and getting some window or door seal material with adhesive backing. Figured I'd post here first, see what others have done.

Suggestions/comments?

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Allan R

I sure you do. The cowl seal is part of a system to prevent underhood gasses from being drawn into the air intakes at the top of the cowl. If the foam for the OAI is too tall and holding the back of the hood up, did you get the right stuff? There's a hood seal for 455's and a different one for 350's.

re: fibreconcepts hood. I called Rob at FC and he was supposed to get back to me but never did. I like the look of the hood. For around 800 + shipping it looks to be really nice. I asked him for references and that's what he was supposed to give. He was willing to give phone numbers out, but I'm not sure if that's a good idea. Nothing on their site from 'happy customers' last time I looked.

So if I hear you right - you're a happy customer and would recommend them? Got any pics of the hood during the install on your car?

HWYSTR455

I have tons of pics, and need to take some more final pics. Yes, happy, though there were some imperfections. Minor. There was a slight divet in the center of the hood, towards the rear, in the one pic the body guy had his hand on it. The rear edge where the trim goes was slightly high on the one side, and didn't line up on the fender trailing edge 100%, but with additional work, could have been perfect. Like I mentioned before, there is the cutout for the washer hose, nice touch. There's also the area moulded for the rubber brace that holds the hoses in place. (holes need to be cut for the rubber piece though, no biggie).

The cowl seal I'm talking about is the one that actually mounts on the cowl, in front of the wiper trans well. Not the one on the air cleaner. The air cleaner one I realize is different for the 350/455.

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HWYSTR455

More pics...(some may be duplicates)

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Allan R

Yes, I understood that. You still need the rubber seal to prevent engine off gasses from entering the air intake on the top of the cowl. I got the impression that the OAI seal was keeping the rear of the hood from touching the cowl seal, that's why I offered the comment about the foam seal. Thx for the FC pics - the hood looks really nice!

HWYSTR455

Yeah, know I need it, just none of the factory ones work/fit. Still curious if from the factory they come with one when the OAI option is ordered?

I'm going to probably have to make something work, was hoping there was a solution I was overlooking.

I will get some more pics up in the next couple days. I would take pics in the garage, but they just don't turn out the same, better if I pull it out. I will this weekend...

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Allan R

The hood pics look amazing. They come with that high gloss finish - if I had a white car I bet it would be a straight bolt on without paint. The fit in the pics looks really quite respectable.
I can't answer the question about if they came from the factory with cowl lacing. Maybe there's a special kind that sits a little lower? If you have your original hood, maybe measure how far the metal at the back drops down to touch the lacing and compare it to the new hood. Have you checked any of the Chevelle forums to see if any of their ram air hoods have different lacing for those hoods? Just a thought.

HWYSTR455

Good idea, but the one seal I used had a label in it that said 'GM A-Body 68-72).

I think the hood may be wider back there.

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Allan R

The cowl lacing I bought for my 72 is about 1 1/4" high and compresses when the hood touches it.

Don't know the comparison of the hoods, Here's a pic of the Thornton hood viewed from the bottom. Check the contours of the metal at the back, maybe it could help solve the riddle?

HWYSTR455

Yeah, thanks, but mine looks the same in the back there. The seal needs to be like 1/4" thick or so to fit. There's 2 listed, one that's the dense foam, probably the one you have, and then there's another listed, and it's thinner, but still too thick.

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Allan R

Who are you using as your supplier? The cowl lacing I have is not foam. Its extruded rubber so it's hollow in the middle. the base is flat and you attach the bottom to the holes in the cowl just like the OEM stuff.

Take a look at Fusicks cowl lacing (catalogue page 31) and you'll see what i'm getting at. That stuff will collapse about 1/2" or more when the hood is lowered on it.

ILT also has this on their site http://www.inlinetube.com/PDF%20cata...dsmobile06.pdf

could it be you're looking at the wrong stuff for the cowl?

HWYSTR455

First one I got was from Fusick's, and very familiar with it, believe it was a softseal. The second one I got from The Parts Place, they list two:

http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/ocat...&YearList=1972

They list a (Dense) and a (Sponge). I've tried both. Dense is the one I'm used to seeing, used that one on other A-bodys. The Sponge one was softer, and compressed more, but still didn't fit. It looks identical to the dense one, just diff material. I cut the 'A' center out to try to make it thinner, still no go.

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Allan R

PM sent

boondocker

I just purchased a '71-'72 hood from Rob (owner) at FiberConcepts, he said he would purchase the springs for me (no shipping charges), I'm currently out of town till end of Jan, and the Jury is still out, but will provide fellow CO'ers feedback once I get a chance to have it shipped to a US. proxy location.

Allan R

Does that mean you will bring it across the border yourself? I was toying with the idea of having it shipped to WA or OR and going down to pick it up myself. PA is a long drive that doesn't work for me. What do they charge you to ship in the lower 48?

boondocker

I'm close to the border, so I can pick it up @ a UPS depot ($5 a day), FC is charging me around $160us. plus packing...I'm thinking the total with Ontario/Can taxes, packing around $1,200.

Allan R

Interestingly enough about 5 years ago that was the price of a Thornton hood!

HWYSTR455

Let me know what springs they are when you get them. I may call up there and ask Rob, but somehow I remember when I ordered the hood asking him about it, and he didn't have any specific recommendation.

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70Post

A buddy of mine here ran into something similar on his GlassTech OAI hood....not a "great" result...

>The hood section profile and/or fiberglass was apparently thicker in that area above the cowl and contacted the top of the cowl. Remember....this is when we are trying to get the tops of fender to top of hood levels lined up.

>Net result is 1) He had to actually remove some of the fiberglass on the hood underside to allow the hood to sit over the cowl area (and to also allow the hood to sit right VS. the fenders) and...2) There isn't really any room to run the cowl seal so he's not. It's just too close back there.

>If your problem is similar then maybe you could fashion a very thin seal out of some form of auto w/strip. Don't know how it would look if that matters.

We couldn't think of any alternative on this GlassTech hood as we didn't want the hood sitting up above the fenders.

Remove the w/strip, get some clay and put small mounds of it across the area where the problem is...close hood and lift and see how thin the clay is compressed. If the clay areas are squished to the point of almost no gap then I can't think of an alternative to shaving the hood under there until it at least fits. After that I guess you could shave more but if you cut through along that contact area across a long enough distance at some point you are going to weaken the hood structure.

HWYSTR455

Exactly. The fender/hood relationship dictates the position (up/down, side to side), so the distance from the cowl to the hood is predetermined.

Thanks, that pretty much confirms my thoughts, and that is kind of what I was thinking, am stuck fabbing something.

Excellent too is that piece of info regarding the Glasstek hoods, sure others will find it useful as well.

Clay, yeah, duh! Not sure why I didn't think of that, have used that in other situations, just completely slipped my mind! I will post the distance once I do that.

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70Post

Also, from what I remember, one side of the underside glass had to be trimmed A LOT more than the other....probably a variation in thicknesses, etc. We may have actually cut through the glass underside in a small area as well. This was well over a couple years ago so I don't recall all the nitty gritty details....but I can tell you 100% we had to shave down that area.

Finally, it seemed to be out on the sides/corners of the hood....we didn't have to shave it all the way across. The guy wasn't too worried about having it look perfect as it's a driver and he races it as well and he's slowly doing other things to fix up the car as he enjoys it.

He wasn't worried about not being able to use the cowl seal either. Someone that was good and fast at fiberglass work could probably section out that area and rework it gain clearance all the way across to the point of being able to use a regular cowl seal..it would take some work and time, for sure, to make the work undetectable.