Jolly Green

Ok guys, here's the issue. Got the car media blasted last week. Roof is pinholed all over with some bigger holes as well and so is one sail panel.

--Tamraz offers a new roof for $350 with roughly $150 in S+H to add on.
--A few friends recommend using Durabond and just skimming it.
--Found a roof and sails from a desert car in AZ for roughly $600. I can drive there to get the parts.
--Another buddy mentioned getting a whole new body to throw on the frame. None found available yet.

Add all this to the fact that my quarters need replaced too so I have a repair that goes into a repair, that goes into a repair.

I live in Las Vegas, willing to travel some for parts. What do you guys recommend? I'm a lil overwhelmed here. And like EVERYONE else, I'm broke. This car isn't supposed to be a concourse resto, but I want it looking pretty damn nice.

joe_padavano

Good used sheetmetal will ALWAYS fit better than repro. You'll make up the minor price difference in labor costs.

Jolly Green

Does anyone know the parts interchangeability on bodies? Can I use the roof off a 69? 70-72? Or only 68's?

AZ442

Check with desert valley auto parts in AZ. They have 100's of cars but very spendy

dvap.com

joe_padavano

The roof panel, down to the factory seam at the top of the C-pillar, should be the same on all 68-72 Holiday and Sport Coupes. The 70-72 Supreme is obviously different. Equivalent A-bodies should be the same as well.

68Tom

Wow. This sounds like deja vu. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ion-begin.html

I guess the main question is, who is doing the body work? If it's not you, then how much are they charging you?

Second, does it matter if it's a number's matching car to you? I say this because you're not going to find a '68 442 body that's in great shape for cheap.

These questions will help you decide whether to go with the new body or the roof and sail panels (I'd definitely go for the original metal over the repop stuff).

If you don't care whether you have a "real" 442 or Cutlass with 442 parts (the more and more I think about the whole "originality" thing--"Oh this is a REAL 442 instead of the Cutlass with 442 engine, trans, axle piece of junk you're driving" is pretty stupid, but that's another discussion), it's definitely going to be cheaper to find yourself a nice dry body and drop everything into it. What I'm not suggesting here is a re-body (swapping VINs & tags), so you'll be left with an "original" Cutlass body (again, goofy the more I think about it) instead of a 442.

I'm not suggesting that the easy way is always the right thing. If you have the time, money, and/or energy to "save" a car, then by all means, it should be done. All I'm saying is, at the end of the day, it'll cost a heck of a lot more to do it that way.

Then again, if you're doing all the work yourself, I'd say get the AZ roof and save it.

Last time I was out at DVAP, they didn't have a clean '68 body. You might, however, be able to get some 1/4 panels there though.

junior supercar

agreed on the 68-72 roof interchangeability.

on the qtrs, 68-69 hardtop are identical enough they interchange. The slight difference is in 69 there is a small cutout from the taillight assembly by the edge of the trunklid on both qtrs.

2blu442

Jolly, how bad is the rust in your quarter panels? I sent you a PM, I've got a roof but I'm still 750+ miles one way. The 1968 carcass I drug home today may have solid quarter panel bottoms, if you only need what's below the dents! John

Jolly Green

Well, to answer all your questions, haha.
--I am doing the body work. Well, under the mentoring of three of my buddies.
--I AM kinda sentimental and would like to save the 442. But at the same time, everyone has their price. I can't afford to pump a bunch of money into it and come out with a turd, ya know? I'd shoot myself.
--The quarters are "new". What I've gathered about my car is that at some point it was treated to a "barnyard/high school auto shop" restoration. Random horrible welding, etc. The quarters were replaced (i.e. in this case COVERED) with aftermarket quarters but instead of cutting all of the old ones out and butt welding them, they riveted and tack welded the new ones on just to cover the damaged old ones and keep them from sight. Then cut out the huge dented chunks of them, leaving a good 6 inches all the way around of old quarters. My plan was to cut off the "new" quarters, cut out the remaining old quarters, then reinstall the "new" good quarters like a professional would have done. Now, that means a new roof, down into new sails, down into new quarters...sounds like a recipe for disaster. My friend is concerned we won't be able to make it straight. So I was going to start with the quarters, make them a solid foundation. Then replace the sails and roof. Comments?

Jolly Green

On a high note though, my 69 442 model, although wearing what I think are incorrect stripes, came out looking great!

2blu442

Jolly, I don't know body work so I think your question about getting it all to line up may be the key question. If your doing the work yourself, and treating it as a hobby you can look at the major build threads and see how much others are replacing on their cars. But it may be worth evaluating how much time you want to invest in the body vs. getting something else to work on. My 2 cents. John

2blu442

Jolly, I was thinking about it some more and believe I do have the sheetmetal you would need. If you really want to save that car, I can provide a roof, quarter panels (mostly solid), and if needed doors. Does one of your car buddies have a trailer and something to tow it with? John

Jolly Green

My buddy has a flatbed trailer he lets me borrow whenever I need. H'es been really helpful with this whole build. He may even wanna make the trip with me cause he's got more cars than even you do, haha.
Is it pretty rust free and stuff? Got any pictures?

2blu442

If you would send me your email in a PM it would be easier for me to send photos. Some of the parts are buried in the shed, but I can try to dig them out enough for you to see their condition. John