Door skins
#4
#5
Coppercutlass has towards the end of this threads first page.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...art-2-a-2.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...art-2-a-2.html
#6
Yes i did the after market skins. There are a few areas. They are not make or break to be honest. I addressed 1 issue. 1 i let go because even my O.E. doors fit like they did in the same area before i skinned them . I could have welded up the edge a little bit to make it more square but i decided not to.
Area #1 which i let be. The gap is a little inconsistent and opens up a little bit part way down.
Area #2 which i did fix. was pretty obvious why i did that.
Overall im very happy. I could have gone all out and made the back of the doors a little better but to be honest its just gonna be a really nice looking drag car and im taking full advantage of the fact GM didnt build em perfect.
One other thing i did which helped me really dial the skins in was i didnt tack weld them to the door frame until i had my gaps good. You can shift them around a bit as long as you dont use a panel bond and let it sit over night. I opted to do the skins dry with no panel bond just like GM did in the 70's. Modern cars i usually skin the door use panel bond between the frame and skin fold it over and put it on the car right away so if i have to shift it i can do that before the 3 hr work window of the panel adhesive. The other trick is to find a good pin point spot to start folding the skin.
Area #1 which i let be. The gap is a little inconsistent and opens up a little bit part way down.
Area #2 which i did fix. was pretty obvious why i did that.
Overall im very happy. I could have gone all out and made the back of the doors a little better but to be honest its just gonna be a really nice looking drag car and im taking full advantage of the fact GM didnt build em perfect.
One other thing i did which helped me really dial the skins in was i didnt tack weld them to the door frame until i had my gaps good. You can shift them around a bit as long as you dont use a panel bond and let it sit over night. I opted to do the skins dry with no panel bond just like GM did in the 70's. Modern cars i usually skin the door use panel bond between the frame and skin fold it over and put it on the car right away so if i have to shift it i can do that before the 3 hr work window of the panel adhesive. The other trick is to find a good pin point spot to start folding the skin.
Last edited by coppercutlass; May 20th, 2017 at 07:45 PM.
#9
The short answer is that within a given year and model, the doors are the same size, but the skins are not exactly the same. The Sport Coupe skins obviously are notched to clear the window frames, and for the 1969-72 cars the Sport Coupes have vent windows, the Holiday Coupes do not. This also makes the skins different.
#10
Door skins
Thanks. I have a 1970 442 sport coupe. I was hoping the door size was the same, but with the differences you stated.
Year? Model? Body style?
The short answer is that within a given year and model, the doors are the same size, but the skins are not exactly the same. The Sport Coupe skins obviously are notched to clear the window frames, and for the 1969-72 cars the Sport Coupes have vent windows, the Holiday Coupes do not. This also makes the skins different.
The short answer is that within a given year and model, the doors are the same size, but the skins are not exactly the same. The Sport Coupe skins obviously are notched to clear the window frames, and for the 1969-72 cars the Sport Coupes have vent windows, the Holiday Coupes do not. This also makes the skins different.
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