Bitburger

Does anyone have any tips on removing and re-attaching rain gutter trim ?
What tools and techniques work the best ?

And, same question for the long piece of stainless trim on the rear of the hood ?

B964

Probably a better tool out there but I have used this for rain gutter trim. Wrapped with tape and a rag to pad the trim surface. Took time and was gently pried it off.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Old-BLATZ-Be...-/150271373248

RetroRanger

Yup can opener works good, hood trim is harder to remove but the piece is well made so it isn't easily damaged I used a couple of thin flat tools like a screwdriver

joe_padavano

X3, with electrical tape wrap to avoid scratching. Hint: don't use the pointy end...

Reinstall with a rubber mallet.

Bitburger

Ok, can opener it is. I'm guessing I should be prying upward from the bottom edge of the gutter trim starting at an edge and moving along.

Rubber mallet to re-attach: so no re-pinching of the trim piece to hold it firmly in place ? and same for the hood trim ?

droldsmorland

The above mentioned methods often result in denting or distortion especially if you've never R&R'ed the gutter stainless before, at least IMO and Im patient. The best luck Ive had is to get some leverage on the underside lip by the roof roof rail rubber with something a little wider than a screw driver, gasket scraper perhaps. Use wood and pry outward a little at a time. You may need to go back n forth several times moving is incrementally down the entire length each time...do not try to get it completely off on one pass through. Start at the front and work back and get the underside to lift off the roof metal, (the vertical and corner piece need to be removed first and go on last). Vinyl roof makes it more difficult. Work it off a little at a time. It will start to "unzip" after you get going. Go to a bone yard and experiment on junk if you can find any. It goes back on in a similar fashion. Start at the rear and get the top seated then roll the bottom in. Dont try to snap it in until a large section has been started and fully seated along the top of the roof metal. Work your way forward until complete. You can get a little assistance with a small light duty dead blow and a wide straight edge...3" or so and GENTLY tap the lower lip to get it to do its final seating. Stay completely away from the top surface. Any other method Ive tried did not end well. The rubber hammer will put slight waves in the SS if your not a seasoned pro at this and the can opener will leave scars too. Love to see how the factory applied this trim. NOTE: This is one mans opinion and experience passing it along to another. Im sure theres 20 ways to skin this cat.
It shouldnt need to be closed up (re-pinched) if you didnt expand it during removal. Re-pinching is tricky as hell to not get distortion but can be done...gently.

Bitburger

Thanks to all who responded.

Brad