Outside door handles
#1
Outside door handles
My passenger side outside door handle is a little loose,i tried to tighten them but the bottom of the glass is kind of in the way. How do i go about this? Does the glass need to come out and does anyone have any instructions on how to do it. Also the door kind of closes rough would this be an effect of a loose handle?
#3
I have the '73 body manual, and getting at the exterior door handle does not require removing the window. The window needs to be in its fully up position. Then you'll need to remove the inside trim panel, and that usually involves removing screws around the perimeter as well as possibly some others, depending on the car, and then lifting the panel upward.
As far as the door closing roughly, it could be due to a misaligned door lock striker. That's this thing on the center pillar.
You adjust it by inserting the appropriately-sized Allen or Torx wrench into the center and loosening. Then move it slightly and retighten. Another way to adjust this as told to me once by a body shop guy is to loosen it very slightly and then close the door. Because it is slightly loose, it will move to accommodate the door, and, if the door is closed properly (not too far in, out, up, or down), the striker will be properly positioned. Open the door, tighten it, and then test operation of the door.
As far as the door closing roughly, it could be due to a misaligned door lock striker. That's this thing on the center pillar.
You adjust it by inserting the appropriately-sized Allen or Torx wrench into the center and loosening. Then move it slightly and retighten. Another way to adjust this as told to me once by a body shop guy is to loosen it very slightly and then close the door. Because it is slightly loose, it will move to accommodate the door, and, if the door is closed properly (not too far in, out, up, or down), the striker will be properly positioned. Open the door, tighten it, and then test operation of the door.
#4
I have the '73 body manual, and getting at the exterior door handle does not require removing the window. The window needs to be in its fully up position. Then you'll need to remove the inside trim panel, and that usually involves removing screws around the perimeter as well as possibly some others, depending on the car, and then lifting the panel upward.
As far as the door closing roughly, it could be due to a misaligned door lock striker. That's this thing on the center pillar.
You adjust it by inserting the appropriately-sized Allen or Torx wrench into the center and loosening. Then move it slightly and retighten. Another way to adjust this as told to me once by a body shop guy is to loosen it very slightly and then close the door. Because it is slightly loose, it will move to accommodate the door, and, if the door is closed properly (not too far in, out, up, or down), the striker will be properly positioned. Open the door, tighten it, and then test operation of the door.
As far as the door closing roughly, it could be due to a misaligned door lock striker. That's this thing on the center pillar.
You adjust it by inserting the appropriately-sized Allen or Torx wrench into the center and loosening. Then move it slightly and retighten. Another way to adjust this as told to me once by a body shop guy is to loosen it very slightly and then close the door. Because it is slightly loose, it will move to accommodate the door, and, if the door is closed properly (not too far in, out, up, or down), the striker will be properly positioned. Open the door, tighten it, and then test operation of the door.
Thanks
#5
Don't start moving the striker around unless you know why the door is not closing properly. The striker does not move by itself so if it is closing hard on the striker, it may be because the door hinges are worn and need to be repaired. Moving the striker may allow the door to close easier but the door will no longer be aligned correctly. And whatever you do, do not close the door on a striker you have loosened. Sorry to disagree with the other post but this can lead to a disaster. If the striker moves enough, you may find yourself in a position of not being able to get the door latch to release from the striker. Now you have big problems. Grab the back of the door, bring the door almost to the closed position and pull up on the back of the door. If it moves up and down any, the hinges are worn. Get a second person to look at the hinges or have them move the door while you do so. More than likely if the hinge is worn, it will be the lower one.
The previous info on getting access to the door handle is correct. With the panel removed (there are also push fasteners on the sides of the door panel too that require you to carefully pull the panel forward) and the glass fully up, you'll need use a 3/8" wrench or socket to tighten the screws. Socket works better and use a 1/4" drive ratchet. You'll need to reach up in the area of the handle and it's not that tough. A flashlight or shop light will also be a big help. There are 2 bolts per handle.
Brian
The previous info on getting access to the door handle is correct. With the panel removed (there are also push fasteners on the sides of the door panel too that require you to carefully pull the panel forward) and the glass fully up, you'll need use a 3/8" wrench or socket to tighten the screws. Socket works better and use a 1/4" drive ratchet. You'll need to reach up in the area of the handle and it's not that tough. A flashlight or shop light will also be a big help. There are 2 bolts per handle.
Brian
#6
And whatever you do, do not close the door on a striker you have loosened. Sorry to disagree with the other post but this can lead to a disaster. If the striker moves enough, you may find yourself in a position of not being able to get the door latch to release from the striker.
Good point, though, about worn hinges and so forth. I would suspect this before looking at the striker as, unless something happened to loosen it, there is little reason why it should become loose.
One thing the OP should do is open the door and note very carefully what happens just as he pulls it open. If the hinges are worn, the door will suddenly drop slightly. He may find that the door will close less roughly if he pulls up on it as he closes it so that the sag, if there is any, is not present.
#7
One thing the OP should do is open the door and note very carefully what happens just as he pulls it open. If the hinges are worn, the door will suddenly drop slightly. He may find that the door will close less roughly if he pulls up on it as he closes it so that the sag, if there is any, is not present.
Brian
#8
hey buddie if you do not have a socket to go around properly just use a flat wrench it will be more time but it will work. by the way if you are replacing the handles definitely make sure you have the proper rod size. The rods because of the manufacturing process usually is elsewhere are very very vital to operation.
#10
I recently purchased some for my 66 from 'The Parts Place' and they look exactly like the original ones (except no pits - LOL), and fit perfectly. I did have to shorten the rods a bit, that that was very easy to do.
#11
hey buddy I own a oem set on my car from a bopc swap meet. I would check your area for a bopc swap meet and get a oem set there probably early spring also for you. Oem handles will be correct across the board ,depth length etc this is not something you want to be unsure of like having to remove your door after installing if not rightly manufactured. I originally bought a re pop pair first and i due to maybe bad luck in the making of it did not have the right depth to them. the rod flexed and would not function right. I believe it also could have been the spring,but the oem ones i bought there at the bopc swap meet worked flawlessly.
#14
I'm thinking of getting a set from Parts Place, too. Mine are ok, just a few pits on the passenger side handle and a few sand scratches on the driver's side (oops!). Because with the shiny paint job, they really stand out now.
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HonestDave
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June 27th, 2013 07:19 PM