1968 Cutlass Conv. How to remove Fender Emblems?
#4
As others have noted, the emblems have integral studs that are held with self-tapping pal-nuts on the backside. Given the limited clearance between the backside of that part of the fender and the cowl, you usually need to unbolt the fender at the bottom and pull it outward to gain enough clearance to access these fasteners. I've not had much success simply removing the inner fenders.
In either case, if the car has seen any rust, expect collateral damage. The two bolts at the bottom of the fender thread into clip nuts on a flange at the bottom of the cowl, and any rust on the bolt threads causes the nut to break loose from the clip and simply spin. At that point your only option is to cut the head off the bolt and replace the rusted parts. Same problem with removing the inner fenders. The bolts along the wheel opening also thread into clip nuts that clip onto the edge of the plastic inner fender, and rust either causes the nut to break loose from the clip and spin or worse, the clip simply tears out part of the plastic inner fender edge.
In either case, if the car has seen any rust, expect collateral damage. The two bolts at the bottom of the fender thread into clip nuts on a flange at the bottom of the cowl, and any rust on the bolt threads causes the nut to break loose from the clip and simply spin. At that point your only option is to cut the head off the bolt and replace the rusted parts. Same problem with removing the inner fenders. The bolts along the wheel opening also thread into clip nuts that clip onto the edge of the plastic inner fender, and rust either causes the nut to break loose from the clip and spin or worse, the clip simply tears out part of the plastic inner fender edge.
#7
#9
This is correct. In the 1968 model year, the Cutlass Supreme was only offered in three body styles, the Holiday Coupe (2dr HT), the Holiday Sedan (4dr HT), and the Town Sedan (4dr with post).
#14
Old thread, good info
Thanks,
Pigs
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October 29th, 2017 12:01 PM