What oil to run?

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Old June 24th, 2015, 04:18 AM
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What oil to run?

Hello again just curious as to what brand and viscosity oil I should be running in my 70 455. It's a bit above stock mild cam and bored.
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Old June 24th, 2015, 05:29 AM
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Due to catalytic convertors and roller systems oils have gone through some changes. What works on late model cars will not work on our old flat tappet cam engines. I use Valvoline 10w-30 VR1 for street use and Wix filters. Others will chime in with their suggestions.
Heres a good read:
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
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Old June 24th, 2015, 08:04 AM
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I'll second the VR1.

-Pete
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Old June 24th, 2015, 10:58 AM
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Sounds good! I can get that at any parts store? Advance auto AutoZone?
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Old June 24th, 2015, 01:43 PM
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The 10w30 is not stocked by a lot of parts stores you may have ask if they will get it from their warehouse.
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Old June 24th, 2015, 01:54 PM
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x3 on VR1, although I can't figure out why everyone stocks 20W50 and straight 50, but not 10W30.
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Old June 24th, 2015, 08:35 PM
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I'm not familiar with VR1. Does it contain ZDDP?
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Old June 24th, 2015, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by '69442ragtop
I'm not familiar with VR1. Does it contain ZDDP?
Yes, Valvoline Racing Oil in the silver container, do not use the not for street use as it is strictly for short term racing use.
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Old June 25th, 2015, 04:59 AM
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No one carries VR-1 non racing oil around here anymore, which pisses me off.
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Old June 25th, 2015, 05:04 AM
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I get mine from Napa, 30 wt. in the summer, 10-30 in the winter.
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Old June 26th, 2015, 06:40 AM
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I see VR1 20W50 at Walmart here, silver bottle but SM rated. I buy Quarter State Defy,5W30 SL rated and ZDDP and tests done have been good.
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Old June 26th, 2015, 09:25 AM
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Vernon might get chilly in the winter. In 1970 Olds was recommending 20W, 10W-30, 10W-40, & 20W-40 from 20F & up. And they said 10W, 5W-30, 10W-30, & 10W-40 from 0F to 60F. So if you want a "year round" oil the 10W-30 or 10W-40 would seem like good choices, as has been suggested. They also said that the SAE 5 based oils (single or multi viscosity) are not recommended for sustained high speed driving.
Probably most reputable brands would do the job as long as the zinc level is maintained high enough for the flat tappets. Sometime figuring that out is a challenge.
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Old June 26th, 2015, 05:42 PM
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Not to dis any other recommendations I use Bad Penn oil for classic cars only because my builder recommended it. To each his own but make sure it has what your motor needs. Jiffy Lube will not work!
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Old June 26th, 2015, 06:11 PM
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I ran the expensive oils, Royal Purple etc in mine. Tried 20/50, 10/40, and now I am running VR1 10/30. Actually my oil pressure with a high volume pump is better. 50-60 cold, 20-25 hot idle. Used to run 45-50 cold and 15-20 idle. Go figure?
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Old June 28th, 2015, 12:31 PM
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I've been using Accel 10w-40 as of lately. It was available at Walmart for a while, as of the last couple weeks I haven't seen it. It's SF rated, and guaranteed to have at least 1100ppm of ZDDP.

The best part, it's not a boutique oil, and therefore isn't $8 per quart. It's like $3. The one UOA I did on it was better than the the Molbil Clean 5000 I had in it before.

I also only have a 72 Cutlass with a 350, so it's not a race car. I can't fathom the $8+ a quart for Joe Gibbs, etc.
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Old June 28th, 2015, 12:35 PM
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10 30 vr1 here too. My local parts store carries it and if out of stock can get it in one day like almost any other part.
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Old June 28th, 2015, 01:56 PM
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I am very partial to the VR1 and delo 400, which you can get in 15w-40 and 30, its a lot cheaper, I have since gone delo and have no problems. oil pressure is a lot more consistent
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Old June 29th, 2015, 01:04 AM
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A lot of people think a thick oil gives better protection than thinner ones. So they buy 20w50 and feel good about their engine.
If you have a worn old engine with loose bearing clearances then 20w50 might be just what you need, but if you have an engine in good shape, particularly if it has a re-ground crankshaft, then 5w30 or 10w40 is more likely to be best. Oil needs to be thin enough to get everywhere it's needed in a hurry from a cold start.

Roger.
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Old June 30th, 2015, 04:41 AM
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Wow thank you all for the replies. A lot of ideas
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Old June 30th, 2015, 04:56 AM
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This article was originally written for the Corvair, however, it contains a lot of information about oil that is pertinent to the old car hobby. Worthwhile reading if you have the time, because it was written by an oil engineer, and goes into great detail about oil then and now.


The full PDF version: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf




The quick and brief condensed version:
http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html
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Old June 30th, 2015, 05:59 AM
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Good read
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Old June 30th, 2015, 06:40 AM
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I don't think I've seen that article before. Looks thorough.

I'll have to take the time to read it.

Thanks.

- Eric
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Old June 30th, 2015, 12:51 PM
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Oil

Originally Posted by Dbechtel71
Hello again just curious as to what brand and viscosity oil I should be running in my 70 455. It's a bit above stock mild cam and bored.
I use only full synthetics in my oldsmobile. I use to use 5/50 and 20/50 depending on the time of the year. It was getting to hard to find so now I get the 10/30. it the Castrol Edge
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Old July 6th, 2015, 09:29 PM
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I have and a lot of my friends always used the shell rotella 15w40 on our built engines with no additive before the oil manufactures cut the zinc in the oil. I now use rotella 15w40 with a bottle of lucas zinc additive and no problems . Even the new rotella has a touch more zinc that the other regular oils.
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Old July 7th, 2015, 04:04 PM
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The local Auto Palace now carries VR-1 again, just bought 5 quarts, I will buy one quart every time I go in to stock up. To bad I changed the oil about 2 months ago.
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