Leaky drain plug in Moroso oil pan
#1
Leaky drain plug in Moroso oil pan
I wanted to run something by everyone. I purchased the 7 quart Moroso oil pan for my 455. Unfotunately, the drain plug is leaking. I already returned one Moroso oil pan for this problem. Is this a common problem for aftermarket oil pans?
I called Moroso and they said there is no torque spec for the drain plug. The instructions simply say finger tight an additional 1/4 turn. Is this a good guideline? I am 100% certain I haven't stripped out the drain plug threads or overtightened it.
I am thinking about returning this one as well and buying the 7 quart Milodon pan. Are these better quality than the Moroso pans? The only problem with the Milodon pan is that it is gold iridited. Can these be painted?
I am pretty certain I shouldn't put teflon tape on the drain plug. Any ideas? I put the nylon washer on it this morning and tightened it. I will let everyone know if it leaks. Keep your fingers crossed.
I called Moroso and they said there is no torque spec for the drain plug. The instructions simply say finger tight an additional 1/4 turn. Is this a good guideline? I am 100% certain I haven't stripped out the drain plug threads or overtightened it.
I am thinking about returning this one as well and buying the 7 quart Milodon pan. Are these better quality than the Moroso pans? The only problem with the Milodon pan is that it is gold iridited. Can these be painted?
I am pretty certain I shouldn't put teflon tape on the drain plug. Any ideas? I put the nylon washer on it this morning and tightened it. I will let everyone know if it leaks. Keep your fingers crossed.
#2
I bought the 7 Quart Mildon Pan used on evil bay for $25.00 and roughed it up with light body sand paper. Painted with a good base primer, Then painted it black 6 months ago. No problem and it looks great. I also got the windage tray and high speed oil pump with the pan.
Good luck
Good luck
#3
I don't see any reason why you couldn't use teflon tape on the pan. It will hold up to the heat. I don't believe you will have problems with a chemical reaction. the thing is, The pan, assuming that it is the same as a stock pan is tapped using a straight thread, like a bolts, as opposed to a nipple or pipe style thread. The sealing surface should be essentially under the head of the bolt, not the threads. are you missing a washer or O ring type seal? I would be more inclined to look there first.
#4
I don't see any reason why you couldn't use teflon tape on the pan. It will hold up to the heat. I don't believe you will have problems with a chemical reaction. the thing is, The pan, assuming that it is the same as a stock pan is tapped using a straight thread, like a bolts, as opposed to a nipple or pipe style thread. The sealing surface should be essentially under the head of the bolt, not the threads. are you missing a washer or O ring type seal? I would be more inclined to look there first.
#5
Well, I checked the pan this afternoon after work and it had leaked some. There is a washer between the drain plug bolt and the pan. The pan came with a nylon washer; however, I received a box of replacement copper washers when the first oil pan I had leaked out of the drain plug. The pan I currently have leaks with the nylon washer AND the copper washer (just like the first one I had).
I guess I will return this one and order the Milodon pan. I would have thought that the quality would be better from Moroso. I have always got top notch stuff before when ordering from Summit.
I guess I will return this one and order the Milodon pan. I would have thought that the quality would be better from Moroso. I have always got top notch stuff before when ordering from Summit.
#6
You might want to try, for the time being going to the local parts store and see if you can get some uncut gasket material, and cutting a washer out of the stuff. Just as a temp fix. You never know it might hold up as a permanent one. Just now thought of it.
#7
Another option would be some of that Blue RTV Silicone sealant. Just enough to wet the contact surface of the nylon washer. Like the guys above said it shouldn't need it on the threads. An appropriately thin coat shouldn't hinder removal next time either. Though you may wait for it to solidify a bit before you fill it back up. Worked for my truck ('72 Dodge) when its drain plug was leaking.
I don't understand why drain plugs always come with the hard nylon washers or no washer at all... it never works. Would it really kill em to include a decent black gasket seal?
I don't understand why drain plugs always come with the hard nylon washers or no washer at all... it never works. Would it really kill em to include a decent black gasket seal?
#9
The good thing is that the engine is still on the stand (has been for awhile).
I am going to call Moroso today and see if they have any ideas. When I checked the pan this morning it had leaked some more. I also noticed that there was some red nastiness around the front and back of the pan where it meets the timing chain cover and rear main cap. I wonder if it was a previously used pan that had been put on an engine with red RTV? There were also two numbers etched inside of the pan. One of them was scratched out though...
I am going to call Moroso today and see if they have any ideas. When I checked the pan this morning it had leaked some more. I also noticed that there was some red nastiness around the front and back of the pan where it meets the timing chain cover and rear main cap. I wonder if it was a previously used pan that had been put on an engine with red RTV? There were also two numbers etched inside of the pan. One of them was scratched out though...
#11
I bet if you got a good o-ring and put on the plug that it would stop your leak. I have used waxed twine wrapped around the drain plug before which stopped the leak. Not very professional but it worked.
#12
I bet if you got a good o-ring
#17
Just as a side note. I discovered Speedway recently. They have many of the same items that you can find in Jegs or Summit but they deliver out of Nebraska which is almost next day deliver for me in K.C. Maybe second day for OK.
#19
Sir, I believe it was me that you spoke with the other day regarding this issue that you had with your Moroso pan. I am disappointed to read here that you feel I wasn't very helpful even though I believe I was completely honest and straight forward with you when I explained to you what I thought would fix your problem. I am very sorry that you are not currently satisfied with your product from us and if there is something you feel I could have done that I did not then by all means I would welcome another phone call, an email or even a private message on this forum. I have included my contact information below for your convenience.
Jim Bianca
Technical Service
Moroso Performance Products
Phone: 203-453-6571 ext. 302
Fax: 203-458-1312
Email: JimB@moroso.com
Jim Bianca
Technical Service
Moroso Performance Products
Phone: 203-453-6571 ext. 302
Fax: 203-458-1312
Email: JimB@moroso.com
#23
Jim, thanks for being professional. It says alot about a company if one of their reps is willing to search the internet for a gearhead forum about a customer's complaint.
Ultimately, I retruned the Moroso pan and oil pan pick-up. I am now waiting for Summit to send me a Milodon pan and pick-up.
Ultimately, I retruned the Moroso pan and oil pan pick-up. I am now waiting for Summit to send me a Milodon pan and pick-up.
#25
Dan asked me to clear something up here..
I had emailed a link to Moroso to give them a heads up. I have Moroso parts on my engine and haven't had any problems with them, the statement made in one of the posts by Olds64 to stay away from their products is what prompted me to initiate contact. Jim responded which is commendable.
Tom
I had emailed a link to Moroso to give them a heads up. I have Moroso parts on my engine and haven't had any problems with them, the statement made in one of the posts by Olds64 to stay away from their products is what prompted me to initiate contact. Jim responded which is commendable.
Tom
#28
the statement made in one of the posts by Olds64 to stay away from their products is what prompted me to initiate contact
#29
I like your style.
Shows alot about a guy.
Got any bullet proof oil pans for a rig like this, It keeps getting caught up on stumps.
Last edited by Jamesbo; November 7th, 2008 at 12:28 PM.
#32
I figure you could fabricate one. I have never been closer to a 4X4 than a couple of feet while waiting at the stoplight. So, really I don't know what I am talking about but seriously, couldn't one fabricate a skidplate or modify a generic one?
#33
With a few thousand dollars and a little imagination, you can do a lot of things.
p.s. I think I have once again veered off topic, sorry
Last edited by Jamesbo; November 8th, 2008 at 03:07 PM.
#34
Moroso, Milodon, and whomever else who sells these pans usually does a 2" drop on a stock pan.
That means that they section the pan, and insert a 2" chunk of flat stock to drop the sump. Then they reuse the stock drainplug.
They have no need to re-invent the wheel.
This thread only leads me to these causes for the leak.....
A: overtightening causing a crack in the pan from the threads outwards...
B: missing, or overtightened seal (causing the seal to crack, or break)
C: gouge on sealing surface...
It is nice to see the vendor go out of his way to try to address the problem.
That means that they section the pan, and insert a 2" chunk of flat stock to drop the sump. Then they reuse the stock drainplug.
They have no need to re-invent the wheel.
This thread only leads me to these causes for the leak.....
A: overtightening causing a crack in the pan from the threads outwards...
B: missing, or overtightened seal (causing the seal to crack, or break)
C: gouge on sealing surface...
It is nice to see the vendor go out of his way to try to address the problem.
#35
It is nice to see the vendor go out of his way to try to address the problem.
#36
In the olden days, a soft copper washer was always used and brass insterts with enough threads were installed in all oil pans. In the new pans they do not use the brass inserts anymore. I always add a soft copper washer, hand tighen, plus 1/4 turn or so. Do not let the cheapo oil change places do your oil changes. they use rattle wrenches and over tighten and strip out drain plugs all of the time causing engine failure. Just try to collect money from those guys.
#37
I'm curious Jamesbo; is this actually your vehicle? The reason I ask is that I was displeased when I once saw a photo of a 'big-footed' 68 Cutlass convertible, but when I see this high-riding Vista Cruiser, I kinda like the look.
#38
No it's not. I lifted it off a thread on this forum that I can't find at the moment. But I believe it was Joe discussing how to build one with some Toronado parts
Here's mine on another thread
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-cruisers.html
Here's mine on another thread
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-cruisers.html
#39
Keith
Here's the thread about AWD Vistas
I finally found it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-cruisers.html
Here's the thread about AWD Vistas
I finally found it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-cruisers.html
Last edited by Jamesbo; November 10th, 2008 at 12:15 PM.
#40
Heck, it was just a Photoshop fake. Oh well, still a cool concept (I'd still go for a bit of a lift). Btw, your VC looks great.
Last edited by KeithA0000; November 10th, 2008 at 11:48 AM. Reason: bad spelling