timing 1971 cutlass 350
#2
How many miles are on the engine? You could go back to basics and pop the cap and check for excessive slack by baring the engine backwards and forwards and see how much lag when the rotor moves back the other way.
Also while you got the cap off, bring up #1 on TDC and see if actually pointing directly at #1 on the cap.
Pat
Also while you got the cap off, bring up #1 on TDC and see if actually pointing directly at #1 on the cap.
Pat
#4
And of course all the other questions:
Stock compression?
Stock cam?
Stock distributor?
Stock emissions setup?
What "stock timing" have you set it to?
Have you verified that the balancer mark hasn't "walked"?
- Eric
Stock compression?
Stock cam?
Stock distributor?
Stock emissions setup?
What "stock timing" have you set it to?
Have you verified that the balancer mark hasn't "walked"?
- Eric
#5
Its back firing through carb.....set initial timing to 6 degree ( yes with vacuum advance line disconnected and a cap in end of line) it would barely run..so i timed it by sound to get it running decent and it was not even on the timing tab.
Pat, I was thinking i will do your idea and check tdc and where the rotor lines up to.
My buddy just bought the car so i have no idea of specs other then holley carb,header, edelbrock intake and supposedly rebuilt.
Thanks all for replying...
Pat, I was thinking i will do your idea and check tdc and where the rotor lines up to.
My buddy just bought the car so i have no idea of specs other then holley carb,header, edelbrock intake and supposedly rebuilt.
Thanks all for replying...
#6
If the technician is capable, timing "by ear" can sometimes be better than "by spec" - I know a guy who does not have a timing light, he sets it to as much as it will take w/o detonation. If the timing mark is off, then going "by spec" is pointless.
#8
In that case, I would recommend starting from scratch - verify that the timing mark on the balancer is correct, that the cam timing is right (to the best of your ability), that the spark plug wires are in the right order, that the dwell angle is set correctly.
- Eric
- Eric
#10
Well, ideally, if you know what cam it is, you can use a degree wheel and a dial indicator to check lift at X degrees to be sure the cam is set right.
It gets stickier if you don't know the specifics of the cam.
Unless you have an innate sense of proper valve timing (and I suspect a few here do), you would have to remove the timing cover and get a look at the chain and gear to check alignment. Ordinarily, if you were told that an engine had a "new cam," you would think you could believe that the chain and gears were fine, but if you look here, you can see that even a fairly new timing set can have a hellacious amount of slack if it was cheap crap to begin with.
If you really have no idea what's in there, it may be worthwhile to check.
- Eric
It gets stickier if you don't know the specifics of the cam.
Unless you have an innate sense of proper valve timing (and I suspect a few here do), you would have to remove the timing cover and get a look at the chain and gear to check alignment. Ordinarily, if you were told that an engine had a "new cam," you would think you could believe that the chain and gears were fine, but if you look here, you can see that even a fairly new timing set can have a hellacious amount of slack if it was cheap crap to begin with.
If you really have no idea what's in there, it may be worthwhile to check.
- Eric
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