TripDeuces

The flex plate uses ARP fasteners. Regular 12 point stuff.
The balancer is a standard ATI piece with their hardware. Six Torx screws hold the balancer to the hub. If you're referring to the three bolts those are for the pulley. Once again a 12 point called a 'ferry' bolt if that's your question.

Cutlassefi the engine is stored in a bag with a moisture bag laying in the valley when I'm not working on it.

RandyS I thought about a standard trans but I have a full manual S/P TH400 so I'm using it. Maybe a Gear Vendors?

cutlassefi

Gotcha. But what's it take to throw a piece of tape over the holes.

TripDeuces

What you don't see is my little paint gremlin who stops things from getting into the engine. Hush hush secret stuff

cutlassefi

Ahhhhh!

TripDeuces

Disassembled the heads today for final clean up and inspection. Going to replace the rocker arms with longer BBC ones for proper rocker arm geometry. Yes I'm a bit CDO................that's OCD in the correct alphabetical order as it should be!

11971four4two

doctor oldsmobile i presume

The_Jeremiah

Trip your engine is beautiful, and those heads are to die for! If you ever decide your bored of them and want them to go to a good cause, you let me know! :P

OLD SKL 69

Where does the build stand at this point George? No updates since October, hope everything is ok.

TripDeuces

Thx Jeremiah but the heads stay

Old Skl life has gotten in the way recently. Mom fell down and broke six ribs so I've been taking care of her. I'm also not a cold person and this time of year the garage is damned cold. I have my propane heater but I may have to do better than that. Other little things too but I won't bore you. Regardless of all that I plan to start back hot and heavy on it soon. I've decided to yank the 330 out put it into the Cutlass to at least break it in properly. Once that's done I might even dyno it. I can go either engine dyno or chassis dyno (maybe both) as both are available fairly easily in my area and I know both of the guys who have the hardware. The engine dyno guy wasn't sure if my headers would clear the stand and he doesn't have anything to fit it anyway. Where there's a will there's a way I guess.
Don't worry I haven't given up. Just been a little unmotivated lately.

Oh and CutlassFI..................I'll try and keep the water temp over 125* for you, lol.

Smitty275

The motor mounts will go on the pair of holes toward the center of the engine for any A-body '64 through '77.
Looks like you've got a good handle on it all. Nice reading up on what you've been up to.

jag1886

I hope the dude wanting to build a 496 for $5000 is reading this.

TripDeuces

"I hope the dude wanting to build a 496 for $5000 is reading this."

Maybe the short block................

TripDeuces

Little update. The passenger side head is finished and ready for assembly. I had to relieve a little bit more for the fuel pump. Although I tried to make it look stellar and ultra clean the problem was clearance. Not around the pump but if I ever had to remove it. To do that I would have had to remove the head and that wasn't going to cut it. So I beveled back the head some more and viola. After some test fitting it's an easy job to remove the fuel pump should something come up. I have a RobbMc fuel pump and it's a bit large so a lot of massaging was in order. I took the finesse out of it and used my trusty grinder to fix the problem. Nothing like horsepower and 18k rpm to fix things. Everything is clean and ready for reassembly and paint. Just going to lap the valves for GP and throw it together. next will be the drivers side.
I spilled the beans on a March serpentine pulley set up. It's overkill but I like the look so on it goes. It will be in in another week and I'll mock it up to see what I need for the fuel system hook up. I'd like to do AN fittings and hard line to all three carbs. My mind is ablaze with ideas but implementation is the key. I have everything for a one line banjo fitting set up but I prefer three lines for the wow factor. Outside the box is my nature but at the same time I want reliability and ease of function. Although I'll be breaking it in with three carbs installed I won't have the two outer carbs hooked up but they still are open slightly at idle so I have to adjust things accordingly.
I know I may be a bit over the top but I think the outcome will be worth it. Please stay tuned. Pics to follow.

citcapp

Come on you need to add photo updates too. How about if I say pretty please with a smile

TripDeuces

"Come on you need to add photo updates too. How about if I say pretty please with a smile"

Hangs head in shame. Ok, pictures it is then. Here are some shots of the work to clear the fuel pump. You can see where I beveled it back. That originally was a 90* corner but you couldn't rotate the pump upward with that ledge sticking out so I laid it back. I also had to take the corner of the bolt boss down a tad. You might notice a little scallop near the beveled area, That is for the one bolt that sticks up at that point from the top of the fuel pump. After mocking it up at no place does the pump touch any part of the head or block. Considering I did this with no head gasket in place I'll have even more room (~.040) once it's all bolted together. It may not be the prettiest fix I've done but it also won't be that noticeable once the brackets are in place and it's painted bronze like the rest of the block. The brackets for the AC will be in tomorrow so shortly I can do another mock up and see what type AN fitting will work best on top of the fuel pump.

TripDeuces

Couple more pics showing a little clean up work on the bowl. I narrowed the valve guide bosses some. You can see the push rod tube in one. Not the best pics, sorry.

olds 307 and 403

Super build. Did you get the Style Track serpentine set up?

TripDeuces

"Did you get the Style Track serpentine set up?"

No I got the Ultra kit with AC. The car originally came with AC which I thought was a bit different for a convertible but I wanted to keep it somewhat stock, lol. I pick it up in a few hours.

TripDeuces

Fuel pump done and after a bit of mocking up I think it came out well. I stuck with my silver, black and bronze theme. As you can see I had to change the outlet. That RobbMc pump is just too huge and needs additional outlets so I made one more.

TripDeuces

Two more pics.

citcapp

Things are looking sweet. The clearance issue worked great with your heads. To bad the same fix can't be used on the Edelbrock heads because of the water jacket issues.

Whats the schedule for the final assembly and install?

TripDeuces

Thought I was going to have a set back after talking to March about the pulley system and my billet P/S reservoir. They told me it wasn't going to fit. What? Telling me 'No' is not an option. I will find a way to make it fit and I did.
The problem is the reservoir is thick compared to the stock tin one and it moves the whole assembly outboard an 1/8th inch causing the pulleys to be misaligned. It just so happens there is a bracket that bolts to the back of the pump and then the main bracket that has a 1/8th inch stand off. I'll just trim it down and voila!
I also have an extra bracket it appears that I haven't figured out where it goes yet. It possibly has something to do with the A/C compressor. I'll worry about that when I get to that point. I have to say the the March instructions are lacking in user friendliness.

TripDeuces

Painted a couple things today. That's a Flow Kooler pump #1575. You have to have the short W/P for the pulley system. I also approached the guy who made the sign for my bench drawer to see if his CAD machine did metal. At first he said no but then after looking at his manual it might but for the time being I had him make some duplicates of the block offs for the L69 manifold out of PVC. I've been heartbroken about breaking the ears off them and I utterly hate my half-assed fix I did so with a little work and paint I think it will look better. It won't be an exact copy but it will look a lot better than what I have.

Also, for those of you considering an ATI Super Damper like I have you have to knock off a bit of the water pump bolt hole to make it fit. In the first W/P pic it's the lower right hole. Maybe 1/8 to a 1/4 needs to be ground down.

65B01Delta

Looking Triple D !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TripDeuces

Fixed the issues with the serpentine system today. I had to mill my timing pointer base down a bit (like in half) along with the height of the bolt. The bracket on the back of the P/S pump needed to have the standoffs shaved down also. Of course when you get a little heavy handed with your makeshift tools you have to paint things to cover up the mess, lol. It may not look perfect but everything will fit perfect now and that was the important thing. Considering I did this with a Dremel bit and a drill press I'm rather proud of my day.
Motor mounts and block fittings installed also.

TripDeuces

More pics:

TripDeuces

While I have the pic of the engine mount up does anyone know offhand what the torque is on the bolts? Since they were 7/16 coarse thread bolts like the cylinder heads I went to a local fastener place and picked up Grade 8 bolts and torqued them down to 50 lb/ft. Is that good enough?

Stevec

Hey Trip in the 3rd pic what is next to the motor mount looks like some type of brass fitting?

442rocketdave

Looking great Trip, I know it wont be long before that Godzilla gets fired up and you are going to have to make a video of the engine running and the first trip down the road!!! Looking forward to it very much!

TripDeuces

Steve you're probably referring to the drain ****

Stevec

That's a great idea! Never thought of it,is that something you came up with yourself or does someone sell that thing?

TripDeuces

Just a 1/4 NPT drain **** from a hardware store. Comes in handy for draining the block. I'm sure I saw it somewhere but been doing it since the 70's on my Olds

TripDeuces

Water pump on and trial fit the P/S pump after yesterdays work. Bolted up nice with just a little more work it will be perfect. I have to trim a little off the P/S pump housing where that bolt is. Not happy with it rubbing there. I'll fix it.
Of course tightening the water pump bolts to torques spec resulted in one of the bolts breaking *&#%$@. I'll fix that too.

TripDeuces

Futzing around today just doing more mocking up. I wanted to see how much different the port line up was between the heads and how much I'll need to be removing from the intake to get it close. Turns out the intake is about an 1/8th inch smaller overall so it is fairly substantial. I even found some ARP stainless fasteners for the intake I didn't even know I had.

442rocketdave

Trip your engine is truly becoming a work of art its awesome looking and I am more than anxious to hear how it performs. I have a feeling with the 3 duece setup it will be very reactive. Your post have helped alot and helped me get motivated to finish mine! Thanks for all your hard work and effort!! Hopefully the weather and everything else will cooperate with you and you can have her running by summer.

TripDeuces

Thanks Dave. I'm not sure if this is what I had in mind when I started (that show car look) but I do like how it's turning out. I'm not a big fan of the chrome and glitter look so of course the intake and heads will be bronze once done.
Little update today. I finalized what needed to be done with the serpentine system. Since the heads are approx. 1/2 inch taller than stock I needed to trim the ribs on my valve covers a tad to clear a bolt. Not real happy about that but that's car crafting. I may even paint in between the ribs with bronze. If I go that route it will cover up a lot of that. As long as the pump is lower than the air cleaners I think I'll be good. I have a thread about the Sanden pump in General Discussion if anyone knows the answer.

442rocketdave

Man do I know what you mean about grinding on new valve covers, over the years I have had so many sets of Holley, M/T's, Edelbrock, Moroso, and of course Mondello. But I have the tall steel chrome ones and I use the Edelbrock gasket which is .250 thick, I even put a Olds sticker on them for looks. remember it is what you LIKE not what the others think or like and thats how I have always done it for 40 years, I can remember people telling me my combo would not run well and I ran 10.70s back in the 70s with a single 4bbl on a Torker! and I have raced more than many of the experts on this forum and I NEVER sonic tested one of my BBO's!

TripDeuces

Potential disaster today! I've been collecting little things so I can continue and today was the day I was going to start working on them. Well one thing I was going to do was mark the header collectors for the O2 bungs that came today. I was using a piece to a combination square to level the engine and had it resting on the back of the engine when I heard it fall over. No big deal I just moved it to safety and then I noticed the screw attachment assembly was missing. Guess where that &^%$^& went? Right down the distributor hole. Murphy couldn't have picked a better spot. It was totally insane and utterly unrealistic. Surprisingly I didn't panic. There it was sitting on the boss that the distributor gear rests against, whew. I get a trusty magnet and then things went from bad to worse. The piece catches on the distributor gear on the cam and I hear it fall into the pan. Don't panic I got this, I say to myself. I remove every plug from the oil pan - drain plug, temp. sensor plug and dip stick plug. After rocking the engine I get it to the drain plug opening only to find that the thumb screw is too big to pass through it. At this point I'm also thinking it's brass and I'm screwed if I can't get it out this way. Turns out it's just steel coated in brass. I thank the gods of Chinesium for that one. So I have two of the pieces out but not the third. What to do? 5/16th rubber gas hose hooked to the vacuum didn't work and nor did the 3/8th. I can't get it out through the temp sensor bung because the trap doors and baffling in the pan prevent that and the other two holes are too small. Last resort I go down to Home Depot for some stiff wire and neodymium magnets. Magnets were about 3/8th in diameter with a hole in the middle like a washer. I put the wire through two of them and twist the wire tight. SNAP, magnets turn to dust. Needless to say they are brittle. Luckily they cam in a package of 12. Fished that bad boy in there and got the piece out first try. Woohoo!
I guess I only relate this story because maybe someone else could benefit from my misfortune and stupidity. Keep things clear and no loose items is todays lesson. I'm far from perfect and I got lucky today so be careful out there. More updates tomorrow.
Added two pics of the offending POS screw assembly

Stevec

Wow! You lucked out there! Trip what do you anticipate for hp/tq number?

TripDeuces

I'm guessing 550/600. I can't wait to find out.
I was never shooting for a specific number. I was going to use what I had and see where it got me. I won't be disappointed I'm sure