atkinsom

Does the rear main seal on a 1969 455 use rubber or rope packing? Napa has both listed as available for that model/year/motor

Thanks

Oldsmaniac

Factory was a rope, the replacement can be either. The neoprene seal is easy to install.

rptw32

tell em you want one for a Ford 460 - same neoprene seal but probably
cheaper cause its not an OLDS listed part.

All BB olds can use the Ford 460 seal - remember to offset the ends when
you install or you'll find it to be a leaker ..

atkinsom

I've searched what and how to offset the seal but the closest I've found is this comment "I offset mine. If you mean not lining the parting lines of the cap and seal."

What exactly does offsetting the seal mean to ensure no leaks? Watched videos and read manual but not very clear to me. Thanks.

75cutty455

I just did this myself. I think i got the info from the folks here on CO

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps9615b510.jpg[/IMG]

75cutty455

Check this thread out too.


https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...vise-tips.html

atkinsom

Thank You. It's much clearer now.

MX442

Hey, watch this:

Felpro Ford 460 rear main seal:
QBS40032
They are anywhere from $15-25 depending on where you find them.

Run to Rund

You can get two qualities of rubber type seals; see this thread:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...main-seal.html

DZAUTO

The 460 Ford rear main seal is the ONLY way to go for a 455 Olds engine.

cutlassefi

Not true.

bry593

Anyone try installing while the engine is in car? Did you trim the rubber from rear OD corner as shown in video? How many miles have you since installation? How much oil do you add between 3000 mile changes?

Thanks for the input.

joe_padavano

I have never had to trim anything when using the Ford 460 rear main seal in a BBO. It is possible to remove the pan with the engine in the car, but by the time you do everything you need to get to that point, you're only six bellhousing bolts away from just pulling the motor completely. Do you really want to be under the car with oil dripping in your face while you do this?

bry593

Motor out of Car:
To remove the hood, I will need a helper, so have to work around someone else's schedule.
Transmission Lines <- Possible oil on floor
Coolant, Radiator Retainer, Shroud, Radiator, Fan, Belts <- Possible coolant on floor
Gas Line <- Possible fuel on floor
Power steering pump
A/C
Exhaust Pipes
Distributor Cap
Wires from Engine
Transmission Cover
Torque Converter Screws
Bellhousing Screws
Support Transmission
Take car off jack stands
Remove Engine <- Best to have assistance, so need to work around someone else's schedule
Mount to engine stand so that can be rolled over so as not to drip oil in eyes (did we want to remove the carburetor as well?)


Motor in Car:
Exhaust pipes
Distributor Cap
Maybe one wire?
Maybe loosen the fan shroud?
Motor mounts

I'm sure I missed a few things, but this would tend to suggest it is quicker replacing while in the car. Granted, it might be a different story trying to remove the upper rope seal. I also need to replace the freeze plugs, so maybe pull it? It's currently dangling from my engine hoist. Car is on jack stands and both fender wells are out.