Distributor Gear Corrosion
#1
Distributor Gear Corrosion
Hey guys, I could use some advice. I am rebuilding an old HEI distributor given to me by a mentor and after cleaning it up I notice it seems like there is corrosion on the gear. Should I be worried about this and is there any way to correct it?
#7
looks like the parkerizing got a little dry in spots and rust started, no worries-run it. i'd oil the bushings with engine oil before dropping it in, let it run up the shaft for a couple of minutes to soak the felt washer.
bill
bill
Last edited by BILL DEMMER; July 16th, 2012 at 09:22 AM.
#9
nice bit of pics. had to replace the roof on mine too. had a local guy do it. His wasn't as pretty as the work on yours, but I was darned happy with it. didn't take much filler to make it look like it never happened. Had some of the same rust as yours, cowl under the windshield, floors, and trunk. Not sure bout the quarters yet, this is being done section at a time so I can enjoy it too.
#13
Nah man, just what you did at car domain you can do here...you'd be fine. We love pictures here, and numbers, and ideas...you get the idea lol!
That cam looks pretty wicked and is gonna make some noise Are you heads ported?
That cam looks pretty wicked and is gonna make some noise Are you heads ported?
#18
More cruiser but I would like to hit the dragstrip for bragging rights once in a while. Going to try and make it handle a little better as well. Wanted the motor streetable. Rick from Accurate wanted to build me a full on nasty drag motor, but the other guys slowed him down, haha. He was just excited to build an Olds 455. All people bring him are Ford 302's and Chevy 350's. Says he never gets to work on off-brand stuff.
#19
If that thing makes close to what you're expecting you're going to have a fairly nasty drag motor as it is. If you make 600 HP you should expect low 11's or high 10's with the right suspension.
Better to scale your builder back than to have to drag him along to build more engine. I went through the same thing with Nickens Racing Engines...they build Pro-Stock engines, and my Oldsmobile 455's lol!
Better to scale your builder back than to have to drag him along to build more engine. I went through the same thing with Nickens Racing Engines...they build Pro-Stock engines, and my Oldsmobile 455's lol!
#20
What kind of rearend do you have? That and the transmission is what I am looking at next? Speaking of, what tranny do you have? I am trying a 700R4 so I can do powertour and dragweek.
#21
I have a '72 Corporate 10 bolt with 3.42 Richmond gears and an Auburn Posi. I built this rearend in 1997 for my 1st Cutlass and since it was sitting on the garage floor I swapped it into the silver car. It's a strong rearend, has bolt in axles, and should hold up to 10's.
I am supposed to be running a 3.90 gear with my setup but the car is knocking on 11.50's and it's not going to get a cage. So, for fear of going faster I think I might keep the 3.42's so I don't sacrifice cruising...which leads me to the TH400.
I have a manual valve body TH400 with a 3,000 stall converter. Although it isn't an overdrive, it's the strongest transmission you're going to find. I know 700R4's can be beefed up but I don't know how well it's going to survive behind a 600 Hp BBO...I guess time will tell.
I want to install a gear vendor unit behind my TH400 but that's a low priority. It is, however, the most durable way to get an overdrive transmission for a high HP car.
I am supposed to be running a 3.90 gear with my setup but the car is knocking on 11.50's and it's not going to get a cage. So, for fear of going faster I think I might keep the 3.42's so I don't sacrifice cruising...which leads me to the TH400.
I have a manual valve body TH400 with a 3,000 stall converter. Although it isn't an overdrive, it's the strongest transmission you're going to find. I know 700R4's can be beefed up but I don't know how well it's going to survive behind a 600 Hp BBO...I guess time will tell.
I want to install a gear vendor unit behind my TH400 but that's a low priority. It is, however, the most durable way to get an overdrive transmission for a high HP car.
#22
I still have the 12-bolt Type O rearend and I would like to keep it with the car but I have heard good and bad things about it. Summit also recommended Moser rear axles since they couldn't find any sort of off the shelf units. Thinking about 3.73 Posi for a mix of cruising and dragging.
Problem I have with the GearVendors is its roughly $2k on top of the transmission price. The guy at the shop who my friend has been going for years, says he could build a 700R4 to survive behind a 600 + hp motor for $1800-2000. Only issue is the BOP adapters, which Summit sells but still, seems to be shady.
Problem I have with the GearVendors is its roughly $2k on top of the transmission price. The guy at the shop who my friend has been going for years, says he could build a 700R4 to survive behind a 600 + hp motor for $1800-2000. Only issue is the BOP adapters, which Summit sells but still, seems to be shady.
#23
The gear vendor is about $2K but it can handle 1200 HP and when you put it on a newly, albeit stock, rebuilt TH400 they are still stronger than a 700R4. And you already have a BOP bellhousing.
As far as the O-type rear ends, you should talk to Brian Trick about having one beefed up for your car. That way you can keep its originality while helping it cope with the power you're putting down. Moser axles, motive gears, and a detroit locker (if they make one for an O-type) and you'll have a bullet proof rear end.
As far as the O-type rear ends, you should talk to Brian Trick about having one beefed up for your car. That way you can keep its originality while helping it cope with the power you're putting down. Moser axles, motive gears, and a detroit locker (if they make one for an O-type) and you'll have a bullet proof rear end.
#26
That is the cleanest, prettiest distributor I've ever seen. I wouldn't touch a thing.
#30
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