455 Lower rad hose question
#1
455 Lower rad hose question
This is for a 455 in a Cutlass S that probably originally had a sb Rkt 350 and a 2 or 3 core in it. It now has a 455 and 4 core rad. The lower rad hose has rubbed against idler arm bolt and has dug into hose over time. Id say the bolt has rubbed half way through the hose at this point. It looks like the correct hose in comparison to many 455's on the web. But one on there now seems to have to travel up the pump nipple too far to avoid the bolt and just barely at that. It seems odd that the design of this would be so close to these idler arm bolts. So something definitely isnt right with this setup on mine.
#1 Is the lengths of the lower rad hose different between 2\3 core and 4 core rads, 350 and 455 setups?
#2 Is this normal, the amount of hose on pump nipple? I had to push it this high to get it off the bolt. You can see in the pics the indents.
#3 what is the right lower rad hose for this setup I have?
I am aware of the correct part per part lookup on the web, like this-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...346369-2619463
But Im concerned I will just end up with same hose I have currently with same issue again. I could cut hose down on pump side, to allow it to ride even further
up the nipple on pump, pulling it further away from bolt...but this just doesnt seem right.
Thx
#1 Is the lengths of the lower rad hose different between 2\3 core and 4 core rads, 350 and 455 setups?
#2 Is this normal, the amount of hose on pump nipple? I had to push it this high to get it off the bolt. You can see in the pics the indents.
#3 what is the right lower rad hose for this setup I have?
I am aware of the correct part per part lookup on the web, like this-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...346369-2619463
But Im concerned I will just end up with same hose I have currently with same issue again. I could cut hose down on pump side, to allow it to ride even further
up the nipple on pump, pulling it further away from bolt...but this just doesnt seem right.
Thx
Last edited by JCMC64; March 8th, 2012 at 02:21 AM.
#2
There are a few different hoses listed in the Parts Manual, and through Rock Auto, though, with slightly different year, make (some also fit Chebbies, Buicks, and F_rds!), and model applications, and it is possible that a different one might miss that bolt.
- Eric
#4
That hose looks to be about 1" too long, some trimming on each end should solve the problem. Also like Eric said above there may be other hoses that will route just a tiny bit different to fix the problem.
#5
As they said, trim the hose. You can also trim off the exposed threads on the bolt, or reverse it so the nut is inside the frame. I found the 71 Cutlass 350 hose to fit well on my 66 400 and give more clearance. Make sure your hose has the correctr diameter ends for the water pump and radiator nipples.
#6
I put an OE GM hose on mine and it almost rubs the bolt also. Poor design. If you trim the hose just be sure you're not putting any tension on the rad outlet. It may look "hack" but I cut a piece of hose, wrapped it and secured with a wire tie. Not that noticable at all.
#7
The last one I installed was 'trim to fit', and I had it on + off 3-4 times.
Did notice the new one didn't have the internal spring, which I feel is important.
Transfering one to the other is a PIA - but necessary, IMO.
I also use some 80 grit on the water pump outlet and radiator inlet, to clean them off, and a dab of Permatex - just in case!
New screw clamps - done.
Did notice the new one didn't have the internal spring, which I feel is important.
Transfering one to the other is a PIA - but necessary, IMO.
I also use some 80 grit on the water pump outlet and radiator inlet, to clean them off, and a dab of Permatex - just in case!
New screw clamps - done.
#8
Done
Hey Guys. Thx for the good, quick feedback
Since I ordered a new hose today, I went ahead and experimented with the old hose. I hacked it couple times, and it moved the hose off the bolt pretty well. Then I really went for it and took big cut out of it.
Final cut really moved it well off the bolt, and still no stress on rad flange outlet.
So Job done. Overall I cut it 1.4" and it moved it about an inch off the bolt.
Just need to replicate it on new hose tomorrow.
And yes its an older well used hose...on a fresh rebuild.
Go figure.
I just cant understand how much money was poured into this engine\tran and car overall by previous owner, and yet he used older hoses, straight water in cooling system (went through the whole flush thing today-- heater core, block drain plugs, rad, etc), then the crappy tranny cooler and modulator line rig job to avoid headers, crappy this and crappy that I keep finding and having to fix. Death by a thousand paper cuts. I dont mind it, I love working on it. But just makes zero practical sense to go to these lengths overall to restore car, and then P.O. tightens up the final build with Fred G Sanford mechanic school practices!
Thx again,
Jim
Ps - todays soup of the day is - Tomato (see pic). Nothing like pure water to crap your metal all out.
Since I ordered a new hose today, I went ahead and experimented with the old hose. I hacked it couple times, and it moved the hose off the bolt pretty well. Then I really went for it and took big cut out of it.
Final cut really moved it well off the bolt, and still no stress on rad flange outlet.
So Job done. Overall I cut it 1.4" and it moved it about an inch off the bolt.
Just need to replicate it on new hose tomorrow.
And yes its an older well used hose...on a fresh rebuild.
Go figure.
I just cant understand how much money was poured into this engine\tran and car overall by previous owner, and yet he used older hoses, straight water in cooling system (went through the whole flush thing today-- heater core, block drain plugs, rad, etc), then the crappy tranny cooler and modulator line rig job to avoid headers, crappy this and crappy that I keep finding and having to fix. Death by a thousand paper cuts. I dont mind it, I love working on it. But just makes zero practical sense to go to these lengths overall to restore car, and then P.O. tightens up the final build with Fred G Sanford mechanic school practices!
Thx again,
Jim
Ps - todays soup of the day is - Tomato (see pic). Nothing like pure water to crap your metal all out.
Last edited by JCMC64; March 9th, 2012 at 12:36 AM.
#9
The last one I installed was 'trim to fit', and I had it on + off 3-4 times.
Did notice the new one didn't have the internal spring, which I feel is important.
Transfering one to the other is a PIA - but necessary, IMO.
I also use some 80 grit on the water pump outlet and radiator inlet, to clean them off, and a dab of Permatex - just in case!
New screw clamps - done.
Did notice the new one didn't have the internal spring, which I feel is important.
Transfering one to the other is a PIA - but necessary, IMO.
I also use some 80 grit on the water pump outlet and radiator inlet, to clean them off, and a dab of Permatex - just in case!
New screw clamps - done.
#11
PN 401275.....Spring is 26 inches long according to the Book...you could make one by wrapping a length of 'galvanized' wire around a suitable round object of the almost correct diameter...coils are about half inch or three quarters apart...try that.
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