Motor mount question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old July 1st, 2011, 04:53 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Motor mount question

I have a 69 442 400bb, 400th auto. I restored from the firewall out, never removed the trans cross member. When i reinstalled the motor/trans the driveshaft was too tight, The trans mount bolts lined up but there is no play in the slip yoke going into trans. Is it possible to have the motor mount supports on engine cross member in wrong holes? Thanks
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 05:07 AM
  #2  
Registered User
 
69442C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
I would think if the engine brackets were in the wrong place that you would have too much space for the slip yoke. Here's a photo of an engine bracket on a 69 frame and there are no more holes to place it back any further. Any chance you have the wrong motor mounts?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
8 24 Chassis Assembly I.jpg (58.0 KB, 44 views)

Last edited by 69442C; July 1st, 2011 at 05:08 AM. Reason: spelling error
69442C is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 07:53 AM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
I bought the mounts from year one, and they fit right and are like the oem. Do you know where the shock post is in reference to the center head bolt?
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 07:58 AM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
The car ran fine before teardown.My brackets are in the same holes as yours. I cant see any problems in the rear arms.
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 08:03 AM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
My motor does not set center over the front shocks,its back about an inch. Thanks for your help,
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 08:13 AM
  #6  
Registered User
 
69442C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
I'd say my center head bolt is about 1" to the rear of the shock stud.

Any chance you have your rear suspension hanging down as in the car is on jack stands placed under the frame and the rear suspension is not supported? That would make the slip joint travel further into the trans.
69442C is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 08:37 AM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
I checked that out and it didnt seem to move much. Are your rear wheels centered in the rear wheelwells or are they offset a little bit?
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 08:45 AM
  #8  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Also ,how much of your slip yoke is out of the tailshaft housing. My driveshaft shows the wear ring from the trans seal shows about a half inch of travel left on the slipyoke. Thanks so much for your input!
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 09:16 AM
  #9  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
There are three threaded holes on each side of the block for the motor mounts. On an A-body, the mounts should be bolted to the REAR two holes. If you used the front two holes, the engine and trans will be pushed about 2" rearward.

Also, did you happen to change the rear axle? Different GM axles have different pinion to axle shaft centerline dimensions, with different driveshaft lengths as a result.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 09:20 AM
  #10  
Registered User
 
455man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 1,070
Your problem sounds like something different but I had a problem installing a motor mount a few months ago. The mount seemed to be dipped in rubber and there was a buildup where it connects to the engine block. I just scrapped it across the cement to grind the rubber down and it fit perfectly. Just a little defect from the factory.
455man is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 09:32 AM
  #11  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
Originally Posted by 455man
Your problem sounds like something different but I had a problem installing a motor mount a few months ago. The mount seemed to be dipped in rubber and there was a buildup where it connects to the engine block. I just scrapped it across the cement to grind the rubber down and it fit perfectly. Just a little defect from the factory.
Sadly, this is a problem with the Chinesium Anchor motor mounts. I had a problem with one of the 2328 mounts when I tried to install it in my Custom Cruiser. The spacing between the two bolt holes that bolt to the block was not correct, as verified by holding it up to the original mount. I had to use a die grinder to slot the hole.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 10:02 AM
  #12  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Checked my original teardown pictures and the motor is in the exact position it is in now, so I believe the motor is where it should be. Are the rear wheeles supposed to be completly centered in the wheel housings? Mine are offset frt to rear about a half inch. Thank you all for your help. Ill keep checking out your ideas on the matter.
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 10:15 AM
  #13  
Registered User
 
69442C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
If you removed the motor and trans, detailed everything, installed the same motor and trans back into the car in the same position, then your yoke clearance problem existed before you did any work on the car. That is unless you changed the driveshaft or differential when you did the detail work. If not, you'll need to see if you have the correct differential for the car and/or if the diveshaft is incorrect. Post pictures of the differential if you are not sure and take a measurement of the driveshaft from the center of the rear ujoint to the center of the front ujoint. Are the rear controls arms stock pieces?
69442C is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 11:30 AM
  #14  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Owned the car since 1983, was beating the crap out of it before teardown and ran like a top. Havent touched the driveshaft, rear, or rear susp. yet. thats what has me baffled. And I was a ASE cert. Master tech. Also my block only has two motor mount holes.
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 11:34 AM
  #15  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Have trans back out of car, Going to reinstall and then see where I am at with measurements. Will keep you all posted as the work progesses. Thanks all for your help and have a great holiday wkend!! Time to have a cold one!

Last edited by xx69442; July 1st, 2011 at 11:42 AM.
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 11:41 AM
  #16  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Also driveshaft is 55 1/4 on center and is the two pc design.
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 11:43 AM
  #17  
Registered User
 
69442C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
There are three threaded holes on each side of the block for the motor mounts. On an A-body, the mounts should be bolted to the REAR two holes. If you used the front two holes, the engine and trans will be pushed about 2" rearward.
The front holes on the block are about 5" forward of the normal front bolt for the motor mount. So if those front holes were used in error, the engine would be about 5" back.
69442C is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 11:47 AM
  #18  
Registered User
 
69442C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
Originally Posted by xx69442
Also driveshaft is 55 1/4 on center and is the two pc design.
OK, mine was 55 1/8 but I may have been off an 1/8".

So, let's start over. How tight is that yoke? I just measured a 69 442 with 400/400 and I have around 7/8" from the end of the trans tailshaft to the flat face on the yoke. THe flat face that I measured to was 90 degrees from the ujoint cap. By the sounds of things this is what you should have and if so.....you are fine.
69442C is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 12:06 PM
  #19  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Thanks for that info! I will measure that after reinstall and get back to you. Thanks alot for all your effort and time to check that out for me!! Any info on the position of the rear wheels being off center in the rear wheelwells?
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 12:09 PM
  #20  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
If the slipyoke were to bottom out into the tailshaft of the trans could it go in far enough to push the reverse band off of the drum and cause a no reverse in trans?
xx69442 is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 01:05 PM
  #21  
Registered User
 
69442C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
Originally Posted by xx69442
Thanks for that info! I will measure that after reinstall and get back to you. Thanks alot for all your effort and time to check that out for me!! Any info on the position of the rear wheels being off center in the rear wheelwells?
Hard to say. Mine might be back slightly from center.

Originally Posted by xx69442
If the slipyoke were to bottom out into the tailshaft of the trans could it go in far enough to push the reverse band off of the drum and cause a no reverse in trans?
Not really sure but I doubt it.
69442C is offline  
Old July 1st, 2011, 11:47 PM
  #22  
Banned
 
SBORule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 370
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Sadly, this is a problem with the Chinesium Anchor motor mounts. I had a problem with one of the 2328 mounts when I tried to install it in my Custom Cruiser. The spacing between the two bolt holes that bolt to the block was not correct, as verified by holding it up to the original mount. I had to use a die grinder to slot the hole.
Does your Custom Cruiser have a Small Block in it?

Reason I ask is, that same Anchor part number #2328 is what I use in my 76 Omega which has a small block.

Last edited by SBORule; July 1st, 2011 at 11:53 PM.
SBORule is offline  
Old July 2nd, 2011, 07:00 PM
  #23  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
Originally Posted by SBORule
Does your Custom Cruiser have a Small Block in it?

Reason I ask is, that same Anchor part number #2328 is what I use in my 76 Omega which has a small block.
2328 is the correct part number for both with any Olds motor.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old July 2nd, 2011, 07:42 PM
  #24  
Banned
 
SBORule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 370
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
2328 is the correct part number for both with any Olds motor.
Thanks Joe
SBORule is offline  
Old July 12th, 2011, 02:56 PM
  #25  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
xx69442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
motor mount problem (resolved!)

To make a long story short, with the rear of the car raised at frame rails and air shocks fully inflated the slipyoke was tight against the tail shaft housing! I deflated the shocks and jacked under the differential and I gained the 3/4" clearance at the trans. Didnt realize the geometry on the rear susp. changed that much as to bottom out the slipyoke when jacked up like that with the shocks inflated. Note to self, deflate Gabriel Highjackers when removing driveshaft!!! Thanks for all your help and a Special thanks to 69442C for going that extra mile to help a fellow Olds man out!!!!
xx69442 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
H8D-67
General Questions
1
October 17th, 2014 01:07 PM
1PDQ55
Big Blocks
7
July 28th, 2014 06:57 AM
Olds Man
Big Blocks
2
January 22nd, 2012 09:22 AM
Zeeman57
Toronado
0
June 12th, 2007 12:44 PM
mcutlass1969
Cutlass
6
July 18th, 2006 01:58 PM



Quick Reply: Motor mount question



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:08 AM.