How hot is too hot for water temp
May 27th, 2011, 12:31 PM
#1
Navy P-3 FE (Ret.)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 759
How hot is too hot for water temp
Slowly working the bugs out of my engine build, header gasket resolved along with the venting issue, just using stock breathers, no oil leaking and not burning oil with the PCV.
Now my engine won't run below 200 degrees, usually 210ish. Now the temperature outside has been mid 80's to 90 and humid. I'm stuck with my 2 core radiator which is soaking in vinegar and tomato juice to clean it out, it was fairly clean to begin with. I'm using the HD clutch type fan from my other car and was going to use the 3 core radiator from it also until I discovered it has a hole in it somewhere. I do have a shroud, using a stock water pump with the solid type impeller and timing is around 13-15 degrees. I got a 160 degree thermostat installed, and mixture on carb seems to be correct.
Should I be running my car at this temp? When I do, my trips are short. The highest its been is 220 degrees. I just can't stay away from driving it. I assume the fix would be a larger radiator. I did notice that my lower hose doesn't have a spring in it but it's pretty solid. Have heard noises after shutdown, could be air in the system? Thanks.
Now my engine won't run below 200 degrees, usually 210ish. Now the temperature outside has been mid 80's to 90 and humid. I'm stuck with my 2 core radiator which is soaking in vinegar and tomato juice to clean it out, it was fairly clean to begin with. I'm using the HD clutch type fan from my other car and was going to use the 3 core radiator from it also until I discovered it has a hole in it somewhere. I do have a shroud, using a stock water pump with the solid type impeller and timing is around 13-15 degrees. I got a 160 degree thermostat installed, and mixture on carb seems to be correct.
Should I be running my car at this temp? When I do, my trips are short. The highest its been is 220 degrees. I just can't stay away from driving it. I assume the fix would be a larger radiator. I did notice that my lower hose doesn't have a spring in it but it's pretty solid. Have heard noises after shutdown, could be air in the system? Thanks.
May 27th, 2011, 02:37 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: six one two
Posts: 143
my 72 (mostly stock 350) has only gone as high as 205 and that was stuck in traffic on 95 degree weather.
how large is the leak on the 3 core? did you take it to a radiator shop to see if it could be patched? it might only be a $20 patch job.
how large is the leak on the 3 core? did you take it to a radiator shop to see if it could be patched? it might only be a $20 patch job.
May 27th, 2011, 02:41 PM
#4
"Car"mudgeon
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Perry, GA
Posts: 5,191
I'm leaning toward maybe a worn clutch on the fan and also if your running a V8 I would suggest a 4 core radiator and a 180 degree thermostat for your area. Once you resolve your cooling issue the 160 degree will be too cool for your heater to be warm enough during the winter months, if you drive it then. Keep the shroud and make sure the fan is close enough to it so it can do its job. My recommendation is to do away with the clutch fan and go with a good 5 or 6 blade one with an adapter to bring it closer to the radiator. Good luck and around 190 is optimum running temp for around town. i assume it is on your '67 and not a modern vehicle which runs around 210.
Scot
Scot
May 27th, 2011, 03:53 PM
#5
Navy P-3 FE (Ret.)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 759
Someone at work had mentioned Water Wetter, I'll have to try it.
I haven't pin-pointed the leak in the 3 core but it's a good one. I was soaking it with the vinegar mixture and in no time my garage floor was a mess. I'll have to check it out.
The clutch fan I just started using, I was using a stock 4 bladed one and tried a flex fan before. I figured the HD might help. It came from my other car so I don't know the condition or how to tell if bad. It has some resistance when turning it. I'm running a 455 that's far from stock which I didn't mention so I'm probably kidding myself that the little 2 core is going to work. Until I can get a larger one I'll just have to make the short trips. I did have it running around 190 when I first ran it but it wasn't so hot outside and my timing was 25 degrees advanced.
Thanks for the replies.
I haven't pin-pointed the leak in the 3 core but it's a good one. I was soaking it with the vinegar mixture and in no time my garage floor was a mess. I'll have to check it out.
The clutch fan I just started using, I was using a stock 4 bladed one and tried a flex fan before. I figured the HD might help. It came from my other car so I don't know the condition or how to tell if bad. It has some resistance when turning it. I'm running a 455 that's far from stock which I didn't mention so I'm probably kidding myself that the little 2 core is going to work. Until I can get a larger one I'll just have to make the short trips. I did have it running around 190 when I first ran it but it wasn't so hot outside and my timing was 25 degrees advanced.
Thanks for the replies.
May 27th, 2011, 06:26 PM
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Eagle Point, Or.
Posts: 112
overheat
200 or even 230 will not hurt the engine as long as you have a good pressure cap and are running antifreeze. This will give you a boiling point above 260 with a 10# cap. The clutch will not operate correctly without the original fan. It needs the resistance of the fan blades to operate correctly. A flex fan will not work as well as the factory fan blade with a clutch. A 2 core radiator will not give you sufficient cooling even with a stock 455 let alone a modified engine. Find a good 4 row or aluminum to give you the cooling you need. Hope this helps some! Dave
May 27th, 2011, 07:09 PM
#8
Navy P-3 FE (Ret.)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 759
I'm running a 50/50 mixture give or take. The clutch fan assy is from my other 67, 6 blade type. I found a Spectra 4 core fairly cheap but have heard bad things about some of their stuff.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SGT-CU165/
I may have to live with what I got for now, just need to make sure I keep the temp below 220. Need to try that Water Wetter.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SGT-CU165/
I may have to live with what I got for now, just need to make sure I keep the temp below 220. Need to try that Water Wetter.
May 27th, 2011, 07:29 PM
#9
Just a checking question, but are you sure that your temp gauge is working properly? Do you have another gauge to confirm your readings?
If that gauge is correct, definitely make sure it is a 50/50 mixture. If your mixture is too heavy on the antifreeze side, it will make your engine run hotter. As others have stated, water wetter will definitely help too.
If that gauge is correct, definitely make sure it is a 50/50 mixture. If your mixture is too heavy on the antifreeze side, it will make your engine run hotter. As others have stated, water wetter will definitely help too.
May 28th, 2011, 06:16 AM
#10
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
An IR thermometer can quickly verify the temp of your engine - a 'must' for every car-guy's toolbox...
A two row rad is just too small IMO... I had one in my car when i got it. That and a non-engaging fan clutch made mine run around 220.
I went to a 3 row (I have a 350) and replaced the fan clutch and the hottest it runs is 205.
If you have a 455, a 4 row is recommended.
When it is running hot, pop the hood and check for a massive flow of air from the fan (along with a roaring sound). If only a quiet gentle breez, the clutch is malfunctioning.
A two row rad is just too small IMO... I had one in my car when i got it. That and a non-engaging fan clutch made mine run around 220.
I went to a 3 row (I have a 350) and replaced the fan clutch and the hottest it runs is 205.
If you have a 455, a 4 row is recommended.
When it is running hot, pop the hood and check for a massive flow of air from the fan (along with a roaring sound). If only a quiet gentle breez, the clutch is malfunctioning.
May 28th, 2011, 06:38 AM
#11
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
One word of advice, though:
When using mine around the house, I felt that it was a little bit off. The room never seemed as warm as the thing said it was.
After a bit of thought about invariable temperature standards, I settled on boiling water - I got a big pot boiling really well and checked the temperature in a number of places over and over. It seemed to consistently tell me that the water was 217˚, so I wrote "Subtract 5˚" on the handle as a reminder, and now the corrected temperature agrees with things like wall thermometers.
- Eric
May 28th, 2011, 03:40 PM
#12
Navy P-3 FE (Ret.)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 759
I don't have another gage so can't verify. I didn't realize that antifreeze raises the temp, I would have put less in.
The IR thermometer would be nice, expensive right?
Do you think the Spectra 4 core would work?
The IR thermometer would be nice, expensive right?
Do you think the Spectra 4 core would work?
May 28th, 2011, 07:01 PM
#13
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
The phenomenon in question here is called "boiling point elevation" due to addition of a solute. The same phenomenon causes "freezing point depression."
When you have a pure substance (like water), that substance has defined and constant freezing and boiling points at a given pressure.
In the case of water, it changes from solid to liquid (freezes / thaws) at 32°F / 0°C and from liquid to gas (boils / condenses) at 212°F / 100°C, at sea level (1 atmosphere pressure). If you increase the pressure, you increase the boiling point. If you decrease the pressure, you decrease the boiling point (if you go up high enough in a weather balloon, water will boil at room temperature).
When you add a solute to that substance, the freezing point drops and the boiling point goes up. For instance, when you add salt to solid water, that water's freezing point drops, and the water thaws out (this fact is responsible for most of the rust on our cars, as it is why roads are salted in the winter).
When you combine two soluble liquids (like water and propylene glycol, or antifreeze), the same thing happens. Because both of the substances are liquid, though, it is a bit hard to say which one is dissolved in which. In fact, the maximum amount of either one that can be dissolved in the other is 50% - if you have more than 50% of one, you've got less than 50% of the other, and the solution of that one is therefore weaker, thus making its effect on freezing and boiling points less.
Because of this, you can see that when you combine antifreeze and water, two things happen: the freezing point goes down (to about -40°F or C) and the boiling point goes up. Now, if you combine that with increased pressure from a sealed cooling system, with a safety valve in the radiator cap that blows off at about 14psi, which is to say, at double atmospheric pressure, you can see that your boiling point is significantly increased (to about 240°F, if I recall, but don't quote me).
Why is an increased boiling point important?
Because liquid water is great at transferring heat, but gaseous water (steam) is lousy at it. If the water is allowed to boil, it will boil at the hottest places in the engine (up against the heads), just like you can watch a pot of water begin to boil right where the flame is hitting it. If you get this local boiling, the heads can't release their heat, they heat up too much and too much in focused places, and they warp. If you prevent boiling, even if the engine gets too hot (up to a point), it won't be damaged. If you allow boiling, you can have damage even though the overall engine temperature never got very hot.
Does that make sense (I'm typing quickly)?
- Eric
May 29th, 2011, 05:29 AM
#15
Navy P-3 FE (Ret.)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 759
I'm sorry, but you (and others?) have got the wrong idea.
The phenomenon in question here is called "boiling point elevation" due to addition of a solute. The same phenomenon causes "freezing point depression."
When you have a pure substance (like water), that substance has defined and constant freezing and boiling points at a given pressure.
In the case of water, it changes from solid to liquid (freezes / thaws) at 32°F / 0°C and from liquid to gas (boils / condenses) at 212°F / 100°C, at sea level (1 atmosphere pressure). If you increase the pressure, you increase the boiling point. If you decrease the pressure, you decrease the boiling point (if you go up high enough in a weather balloon, water will boil at room temperature).
When you add a solute to that substance, the freezing point drops and the boiling point goes up. For instance, when you add salt to solid water, that water's freezing point drops, and the water thaws out (this fact is responsible for most of the rust on our cars, as it is why roads are salted in the winter).
When you combine two soluble liquids (like water and propylene glycol, or antifreeze), the same thing happens. Because both of the substances are liquid, though, it is a bit hard to say which one is dissolved in which. In fact, the maximum amount of either one that can be dissolved in the other is 50% - if you have more than 50% of one, you've got less than 50% of the other, and the solution of that one is therefore weaker, thus making its effect on freezing and boiling points less.
Because of this, you can see that when you combine antifreeze and water, two things happen: the freezing point goes down (to about -40°F or C) and the boiling point goes up. Now, if you combine that with increased pressure from a sealed cooling system, with a safety valve in the radiator cap that blows off at about 14psi, which is to say, at double atmospheric pressure, you can see that your boiling point is significantly increased (to about 240°F, if I recall, but don't quote me).
Why is an increased boiling point important?
Because liquid water is great at transferring heat, but gaseous water (steam) is lousy at it. If the water is allowed to boil, it will boil at the hottest places in the engine (up against the heads), just like you can watch a pot of water begin to boil right where the flame is hitting it. If you get this local boiling, the heads can't release their heat, they heat up too much and too much in focused places, and they warp. If you prevent boiling, even if the engine gets too hot (up to a point), it won't be damaged. If you allow boiling, you can have damage even though the overall engine temperature never got very hot.
Does that make sense (I'm typing quickly)?
- Eric
The phenomenon in question here is called "boiling point elevation" due to addition of a solute. The same phenomenon causes "freezing point depression."
When you have a pure substance (like water), that substance has defined and constant freezing and boiling points at a given pressure.
In the case of water, it changes from solid to liquid (freezes / thaws) at 32°F / 0°C and from liquid to gas (boils / condenses) at 212°F / 100°C, at sea level (1 atmosphere pressure). If you increase the pressure, you increase the boiling point. If you decrease the pressure, you decrease the boiling point (if you go up high enough in a weather balloon, water will boil at room temperature).
When you add a solute to that substance, the freezing point drops and the boiling point goes up. For instance, when you add salt to solid water, that water's freezing point drops, and the water thaws out (this fact is responsible for most of the rust on our cars, as it is why roads are salted in the winter).
When you combine two soluble liquids (like water and propylene glycol, or antifreeze), the same thing happens. Because both of the substances are liquid, though, it is a bit hard to say which one is dissolved in which. In fact, the maximum amount of either one that can be dissolved in the other is 50% - if you have more than 50% of one, you've got less than 50% of the other, and the solution of that one is therefore weaker, thus making its effect on freezing and boiling points less.
Because of this, you can see that when you combine antifreeze and water, two things happen: the freezing point goes down (to about -40°F or C) and the boiling point goes up. Now, if you combine that with increased pressure from a sealed cooling system, with a safety valve in the radiator cap that blows off at about 14psi, which is to say, at double atmospheric pressure, you can see that your boiling point is significantly increased (to about 240°F, if I recall, but don't quote me).
Why is an increased boiling point important?
Because liquid water is great at transferring heat, but gaseous water (steam) is lousy at it. If the water is allowed to boil, it will boil at the hottest places in the engine (up against the heads), just like you can watch a pot of water begin to boil right where the flame is hitting it. If you get this local boiling, the heads can't release their heat, they heat up too much and too much in focused places, and they warp. If you prevent boiling, even if the engine gets too hot (up to a point), it won't be damaged. If you allow boiling, you can have damage even though the overall engine temperature never got very hot.
Does that make sense (I'm typing quickly)?
- Eric
May 29th, 2011, 06:28 AM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Far from it.
15 bucks at harbor freight, also available other places.
http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html
I got the above one for 10 bucks on sale and works as acurrately as my billet aluminum $50 unit...
They also work for checking meat temperatures, AC duct temps, and to see if you have a fever!
15 bucks at harbor freight, also available other places.
http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html
I got the above one for 10 bucks on sale and works as acurrately as my billet aluminum $50 unit...
They also work for checking meat temperatures, AC duct temps, and to see if you have a fever!
May 29th, 2011, 06:35 AM
#17
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
May 29th, 2011, 07:27 AM
#18
Navy P-3 FE (Ret.)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 759
I can handle $15, guess I was thinking something different.
The Spectra 4 core, would that be worth it or should I go Aluminum? Griffin has one for about $130 more than the Spectra. The Griffin's a 2 core but they're large / wide cores.
The Spectra 4 core, would that be worth it or should I go Aluminum? Griffin has one for about $130 more than the Spectra. The Griffin's a 2 core but they're large / wide cores.
May 29th, 2011, 07:43 AM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I think that both those units you mention will cool adequately.
I think your top rad support plate will need modding for those wider rads.
Of course the cheap one listed only reads up to 230*...
Stoves and air-cooled engines run way above that, so a better unit will be required for thos apps...
I think your top rad support plate will need modding for those wider rads.
Stoves and air-cooled engines run way above that, so a better unit will be required for thos apps...
June 6th, 2011, 02:58 PM
#22
I'm sorry, but you (and others?) have got the wrong idea.
The phenomenon in question here is called "boiling point elevation" due to addition of a solute. The same phenomenon causes "freezing point depression."
When you have a pure substance (like water), that substance has defined and constant freezing and boiling points at a given pressure.
In the case of water, it changes from solid to liquid (freezes / thaws) at 32°F / 0°C and from liquid to gas (boils / condenses) at 212°F / 100°C, at sea level (1 atmosphere pressure). If you increase the pressure, you increase the boiling point. If you decrease the pressure, you decrease the boiling point (if you go up high enough in a weather balloon, water will boil at room temperature).
Great answer!
When you add a solute to that substance, the freezing point drops and the boiling point goes up. For instance, when you add salt to solid water, that water's freezing point drops, and the water thaws out (this fact is responsible for most of the rust on our cars, as it is why roads are salted in the winter).
When you combine two soluble liquids (like water and propylene glycol, or antifreeze), the same thing happens. Because both of the substances are liquid, though, it is a bit hard to say which one is dissolved in which. In fact, the maximum amount of either one that can be dissolved in the other is 50% - if you have more than 50% of one, you've got less than 50% of the other, and the solution of that one is therefore weaker, thus making its effect on freezing and boiling points less.
Because of this, you can see that when you combine antifreeze and water, two things happen: the freezing point goes down (to about -40°F or C) and the boiling point goes up. Now, if you combine that with increased pressure from a sealed cooling system, with a safety valve in the radiator cap that blows off at about 14psi, which is to say, at double atmospheric pressure, you can see that your boiling point is significantly increased (to about 240°F, if I recall, but don't quote me).
Why is an increased boiling point important?
Because liquid water is great at transferring heat, but gaseous water (steam) is lousy at it. If the water is allowed to boil, it will boil at the hottest places in the engine (up against the heads), just like you can watch a pot of water begin to boil right where the flame is hitting it. If you get this local boiling, the heads can't release their heat, they heat up too much and too much in focused places, and they warp. If you prevent boiling, even if the engine gets too hot (up to a point), it won't be damaged. If you allow boiling, you can have damage even though the overall engine temperature never got very hot.
Does that make sense (I'm typing quickly)?
- Eric
The phenomenon in question here is called "boiling point elevation" due to addition of a solute. The same phenomenon causes "freezing point depression."
When you have a pure substance (like water), that substance has defined and constant freezing and boiling points at a given pressure.
In the case of water, it changes from solid to liquid (freezes / thaws) at 32°F / 0°C and from liquid to gas (boils / condenses) at 212°F / 100°C, at sea level (1 atmosphere pressure). If you increase the pressure, you increase the boiling point. If you decrease the pressure, you decrease the boiling point (if you go up high enough in a weather balloon, water will boil at room temperature).
Great answer!
When you add a solute to that substance, the freezing point drops and the boiling point goes up. For instance, when you add salt to solid water, that water's freezing point drops, and the water thaws out (this fact is responsible for most of the rust on our cars, as it is why roads are salted in the winter).
When you combine two soluble liquids (like water and propylene glycol, or antifreeze), the same thing happens. Because both of the substances are liquid, though, it is a bit hard to say which one is dissolved in which. In fact, the maximum amount of either one that can be dissolved in the other is 50% - if you have more than 50% of one, you've got less than 50% of the other, and the solution of that one is therefore weaker, thus making its effect on freezing and boiling points less.
Because of this, you can see that when you combine antifreeze and water, two things happen: the freezing point goes down (to about -40°F or C) and the boiling point goes up. Now, if you combine that with increased pressure from a sealed cooling system, with a safety valve in the radiator cap that blows off at about 14psi, which is to say, at double atmospheric pressure, you can see that your boiling point is significantly increased (to about 240°F, if I recall, but don't quote me).
Why is an increased boiling point important?
Because liquid water is great at transferring heat, but gaseous water (steam) is lousy at it. If the water is allowed to boil, it will boil at the hottest places in the engine (up against the heads), just like you can watch a pot of water begin to boil right where the flame is hitting it. If you get this local boiling, the heads can't release their heat, they heat up too much and too much in focused places, and they warp. If you prevent boiling, even if the engine gets too hot (up to a point), it won't be damaged. If you allow boiling, you can have damage even though the overall engine temperature never got very hot.
Does that make sense (I'm typing quickly)?
- Eric
June 6th, 2011, 03:01 PM
#23
I'm sorry, but you (and others?) have got the wrong idea.
The phenomenon in question here is called "boiling point elevation" due to addition of a solute. The same phenomenon causes "freezing point depression."
When you have a pure substance (like water), that substance has defined and constant freezing and boiling points at a given pressure.
In the case of water, it changes from solid to liquid (freezes / thaws) at 32°F / 0°C and from liquid to gas (boils / condenses) at 212°F / 100°C, at sea level (1 atmosphere pressure). If you increase the pressure, you increase the boiling point. If you decrease the pressure, you decrease the boiling point (if you go up high enough in a weather balloon, water will boil at room temperature).
Great answer!
When you add a solute to that substance, the freezing point drops and the boiling point goes up. For instance, when you add salt to solid water, that water's freezing point drops, and the water thaws out (this fact is responsible for most of the rust on our cars, as it is why roads are salted in the winter).
When you combine two soluble liquids (like water and propylene glycol, or antifreeze), the same thing happens. Because both of the substances are liquid, though, it is a bit hard to say which one is dissolved in which. In fact, the maximum amount of either one that can be dissolved in the other is 50% - if you have more than 50% of one, you've got less than 50% of the other, and the solution of that one is therefore weaker, thus making its effect on freezing and boiling points less.
Because of this, you can see that when you combine antifreeze and water, two things happen: the freezing point goes down (to about -40°F or C) and the boiling point goes up. Now, if you combine that with increased pressure from a sealed cooling system, with a safety valve in the radiator cap that blows off at about 14psi, which is to say, at double atmospheric pressure, you can see that your boiling point is significantly increased (to about 240°F, if I recall, but don't quote me).
Why is an increased boiling point important?
Because liquid water is great at transferring heat, but gaseous water (steam) is lousy at it. If the water is allowed to boil, it will boil at the hottest places in the engine (up against the heads), just like you can watch a pot of water begin to boil right where the flame is hitting it. If you get this local boiling, the heads can't release their heat, they heat up too much and too much in focused places, and they warp. If you prevent boiling, even if the engine gets too hot (up to a point), it won't be damaged. If you allow boiling, you can have damage even though the overall engine temperature never got very hot.
Does that make sense (I'm typing quickly)?
- Eric
The phenomenon in question here is called "boiling point elevation" due to addition of a solute. The same phenomenon causes "freezing point depression."
When you have a pure substance (like water), that substance has defined and constant freezing and boiling points at a given pressure.
In the case of water, it changes from solid to liquid (freezes / thaws) at 32°F / 0°C and from liquid to gas (boils / condenses) at 212°F / 100°C, at sea level (1 atmosphere pressure). If you increase the pressure, you increase the boiling point. If you decrease the pressure, you decrease the boiling point (if you go up high enough in a weather balloon, water will boil at room temperature).
Great answer!
When you add a solute to that substance, the freezing point drops and the boiling point goes up. For instance, when you add salt to solid water, that water's freezing point drops, and the water thaws out (this fact is responsible for most of the rust on our cars, as it is why roads are salted in the winter).
When you combine two soluble liquids (like water and propylene glycol, or antifreeze), the same thing happens. Because both of the substances are liquid, though, it is a bit hard to say which one is dissolved in which. In fact, the maximum amount of either one that can be dissolved in the other is 50% - if you have more than 50% of one, you've got less than 50% of the other, and the solution of that one is therefore weaker, thus making its effect on freezing and boiling points less.
Because of this, you can see that when you combine antifreeze and water, two things happen: the freezing point goes down (to about -40°F or C) and the boiling point goes up. Now, if you combine that with increased pressure from a sealed cooling system, with a safety valve in the radiator cap that blows off at about 14psi, which is to say, at double atmospheric pressure, you can see that your boiling point is significantly increased (to about 240°F, if I recall, but don't quote me).
Why is an increased boiling point important?
Because liquid water is great at transferring heat, but gaseous water (steam) is lousy at it. If the water is allowed to boil, it will boil at the hottest places in the engine (up against the heads), just like you can watch a pot of water begin to boil right where the flame is hitting it. If you get this local boiling, the heads can't release their heat, they heat up too much and too much in focused places, and they warp. If you prevent boiling, even if the engine gets too hot (up to a point), it won't be damaged. If you allow boiling, you can have damage even though the overall engine temperature never got very hot.
Does that make sense (I'm typing quickly)?
- Eric
Stanley
June 6th, 2011, 03:34 PM
#24
car guy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 5,656
If you don't mind the look of a new radiator you can drop in a modern aluminum cored radiator for about $140.00-170.00 therobski has one in his 67 with a 500ish hp 455 and works great. I had one in mine too but it was a stock 330 so thats not apples to apples.
June 8th, 2011, 03:55 PM
#25
Navy P-3 FE (Ret.)
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 759
I think I figured out why my engine ran hot. Since it's apart now for other reasons I thought I would double check TDC and see how the balancer lined up. Well TDC was actually 10 degrees and not 0 as I thought so my timing was set at 3-5 degrees instead of 13-15 degrees.
June 9th, 2011, 08:03 AM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sweden
Posts: 314
I have this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-1-55272-X/
Last edited by panos; June 9th, 2011 at 08:09 AM.
June 14th, 2011, 12:11 PM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 32
What are you doing for cooling? Those temps are great for an Olds. Im running pretty much the same combo but car creeps to 220 if I get stuck at a traffic light too long. have tried changing thermostats, right now im not running one at all. Its a 455 with a performer, holley 780 and headers. 3 row- electric fan
June 14th, 2011, 04:17 PM
#29
I know this is a noob type question, but how do you tell how many rows a raditor has?
I was told my old Delta had a 3 row in it. I know this one has an aftermarket raditor in it, but how do I check the rows? Gotta keep it cool for my 330 which is replacing the 307
I was told my old Delta had a 3 row in it. I know this one has an aftermarket raditor in it, but how do I check the rows? Gotta keep it cool for my 330 which is replacing the 307
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