What to do for a 455 "refresh"

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Old September 7th, 2010, 08:35 PM
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Question What to do for a 455 "refresh"

Hello all,

I've got an 56k mile original 455 in a 1969 98. I may or may not keep it in the 98 but either way I was going to clean it up and and replace all the gaskets. (and anything else that should be replaced after 40 years)

Of course this got me started thinking on what else I should do while I've got it open. (I'm thinking of replacing the timing chain, for example)

The engine runs great now and I don't want to "fix it" if it ain't broke. I certainly don't want to do any bottom end stuff or pull the heads. I'm just putting together a list of stuff I can do this weekend.

When it's done it's either going back into the 98 or into my 70 conv't Cutlass.

Please let me know what should be replaced, and what brand of part you suggest. (ie: What timing chain do you guys use?)

Thanks in advance,

Karl
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Old September 7th, 2010, 09:23 PM
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I think we have talk about this before. If you really want to do it right, you know you need to rebuild it.

BUT, you can do this. You know about the body rust from a 41 year old car, well think of the factory steel shim head gaskets that can rust out.
1) Pull the heads, wizz wheel the heads and block, replace the head gaskets.
2) pull the oil pan and hot tank to clean out all the 41 years of crud in it.
3) replace the oil pump with a Melling M22F, standard pump, not the high volume pump.
4) remove the pin that holds the pressure spring, redrill the hole for the pin, moving it over .250, clean and reinstall the pin. gives you better pressure.
5) Use a Cloyes true roller chain. With the stock chain set the dots lined up. Now try to install the new chain, with the dots straight up, see how far off it is.
If it was me I would install with the 4* advance. but that is me.
6) New oil pan gasket and front cover gasket, intake gasket. Water pump.
Now you have engine that will be a good runner.
Might as well do it while it is out on the stand.
You will feel much better.
If you don't, I'll bet the you will blow a head gasket in no time.

Gene
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Old September 7th, 2010, 09:35 PM
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7) You want to replace the valve seals as well.

Jaybird
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Old September 7th, 2010, 09:43 PM
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Gene,

Thanks for the quick response. This is the "snowball" you always worry about.

I've only been driving on this engine for a few weeks, but oil pressure is over 50 when cold and just about 20 when hot (running 5w-30). Vacuum is strong and steady, and plenty of power. Also it's the coolest running 455 I've ever seen, I haven't hit 200 yet, even at idle. Engine appears (and I was told) to have been very well maintained over it's life, and oil is always clean on the dipstick. Coolant is bright green, even the trans fluid is pretty pink.

Are you thinking the head gaskets will go even if I drive it as is? Or are you saying that by pulling the engine and doing the other repairs will stress the head gaskets?

Would you replace the oil pump and put in the restrictor if oil pressure if fine now? I hate spending money, especially when it doesn't seem like I'd be getting much higher pressure (based on my previous 455 experience)

Basically I was thinking of doing the pan and front/rear gaskets since it would be easier to do while the engine is out. (Head gasket wouldn't necessarily be any easier while it's out)

Lastly, where does everyone shop for these items? Should I just be going to Summit? Is there a preferred gasket kit?


I'm not shooting down your ideas, I just realized I didn't really give the full picture on my initial post. I really appreciate your feedback.
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Old September 8th, 2010, 06:54 AM
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I think Jaybird has a good idea. Replacing the valve seals is something that will help and would be easier with the engine out. I would also replace the head gaskets but that is just me. You might also replace the freeze plugs.
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Old September 8th, 2010, 08:25 AM
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You have a 40 year old engine. Unless it has been rebuilt in the last few years. I wouldn't bother taking it apart unless your going to rebuild it. Just to regasket is a waste of time.

Beside gaskets the timing chain, cam, lifters, oil pump, bearing, freeze plugs, and rings will need to be replaced. Plus machine work that will need to be done to the block and heads. A valve job is something people like to skip and it cost them in the long run.
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Old September 8th, 2010, 10:04 AM
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You can see many articles in Hot Rod or Car Craft where they take a junkyard engine and "freshen it up" by installing all new gaskets, new bearings, new rings, and simply hone the cylinders instead of overboring the engine. Apparently, it must work decent for them to publish such articles.
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Old September 8th, 2010, 10:39 AM
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Thanks guys,

I was just trying to stop some small leaks, that was the idea for the gaskets. As I've said the engine runs fine now, so I'll keep it as-is until I have the time / money to do a proper rebuild.

--
Karl
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Old September 8th, 2010, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 64Rocket
I think we have talk about this before. If you really want to do it right, you know you need to rebuild it.

BUT, you can do this. You know about the body rust from a 41 year old car, well think of the factory steel shim head gaskets that can rust out.
1) Pull the heads, wizz wheel the heads and block, replace the head gaskets.
2) pull the oil pan and hot tank to clean out all the 41 years of crud in it.
3) replace the oil pump with a Melling M22F, standard pump, not the high volume pump.
4) remove the pin that holds the pressure spring, redrill the hole for the pin, moving it over .250, clean and reinstall the pin. gives you better pressure.
5) Use a Cloyes true roller chain. With the stock chain set the dots lined up. Now try to install the new chain, with the dots straight up, see how far off it is.
If it was me I would install with the 4* advance. but that is me.
6) New oil pan gasket and front cover gasket, intake gasket. Water pump.
Now you have engine that will be a good runner.
Might as well do it while it is out on the stand.
You will feel much better.
If you don't, I'll bet the you will blow a head gasket in no time.

Gene
Just curious why not the High Volume?
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Old September 8th, 2010, 07:47 PM
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Trooper,
With a stock oil pan, is only 4 qts in the pan and one in the filter. The high volume pump is just that," high volume" . The pan only has 4 qts in it and the drain backs don't allow the oil to drain back fast enough. So with the engine running the pan become pretty dry.

Karl,
Fix the leaks and at least change the timing set, if it is real loose. If the oil and coolant is that good, then it has been very well maintained, then the rest of the car must be great condition.
Also i don't see any reason to bore and new pistons. If it is in great shape and the clearance is good, then just hone and re-ring, polish the crank, valve job and away you go.
Gene

Last edited by 64Rocket; September 8th, 2010 at 07:50 PM.
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Old September 8th, 2010, 08:13 PM
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I agree with 64Rocket on the timing chain and the gaskets including the heads...Im in the same boat with a 50k engine in my 65...It would be a shame to take a chance on ruining a great engine by trying to save a few bucks and a few hours labour...peace of mind is everything...
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Old September 8th, 2010, 08:58 PM
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It only has 56k miles on it. How much are you going to drive it in a year? I would do timing chain, valve stem seals. probably a rear main seal and which will require a pan gasket. If it is not clattering I would not bother the lifters and pushrods unless you change the cam which I would do while it is out. I would go with a mild RV cam for a little more power. Finish that baby off with a nice coat of paint, paint all the brackets and it will look and run like new. Forgot, I would do the oil pump with a regular pump while the pan is off. I would also replace the front pump seal on the transmission while the engine is out. Perfect time to do it.
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