Danny Wiseley

If you have seven good cylinders and seven good pistons, why buy eight? Many people will tell you they MUST be all the same, but can they give a valid reason? I have assembled engines with one cylinder bored .030" oversize with absolutely no problems from the mismatch. Also, crankshafts with one journal turned .020" with the others standard. Both ran thousands of HARD miles with no problems.
DW

CaliBoricua

Would anyone buy a rebuilt engine with high performance parts such as UltraDyne cam and speed pro pistons that has been rebuilt 8 years ago and never been installed and sat in the garage? The guy said its a "F" block with "E" heads but the paint is coming off and has rust from sitting in the garage. If I go and look at the engine what should I look for to see if it has been rebuilt and to see if there is rust inside from sitting in the garage for 8 years?
Any suggestions?

MN71W30

I bought a motor that had sat for a few years and it had a mouse nest in the head and block water jacket. You couldn't have got one more seed packed inside the water jackets. During the reassembly process I damaged the cylinder wall and it cost me plenty. But if I hadn't damaged the cylinder wall I wouldn't have pulled both heads and found the nest.
I would plan on dissassembling the engine. Checking it and cleaning it and then reassembly, unless you are sure things look good it might be risky. Does it turn over freely?

CaliBoricua

The guy said it does turn freely and was rebuilt in 92-93 and sat in his garage on a engine stand since. He said the paint is coming off and the engine is starting to show rust around the engine but not sure about the inside.
What do you think it would cost to have the engine checked out by a machine shop?
If this engine checks out find with no issues I can save $700 on rebuilding my engine which is a "FA" block and "J" heads. My concern is what if he just cleaned and painted the engine to make it look new...People are shaddy and will do anything for a buck.
I wonder if I ask him if he can take off the oil pan would I be able to see anything..

Olds64

This is a possibility. If you already have an engine then rebuild it. No need getting an additional engine unless you use your car as a daily driver and can't go without it.

CaliBoricua

I hear what you are saying, I just wanted to save a few bucks and the engine doesnt look bad. I rather feel safe knowing the work was done right then second guessing when it goes up in flames lol.
I found this motor on the S.F Craigslist here

CaliBoricua

Back to this master rebuild kit from Enginetech...
I found out the Pistons are made by silvolite which is the same as KB. Here is a link of the piston that is in this kit: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/silv-o-l...tails&S_id=294
The funny thing I found about these pistons made by Silvolite is they are the same thing as the kb found here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-1631-030/

&

The camshaft is made by Elgin which is suppose to be a stage three cam. They do seem kind of cheap so if I do end up getting this kit I would replace it with a comp cam.

67 Cutlass Freak

I think we need more information to help you. What car do you have? What are your goals? Forged pistons will not rust. They are aluminum. If you want to reuse your pistons, find another block. The TRW 2323 pistons are heavy but a good stock replacement. You might want to look at some other peoples proven combinations here -

http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewforum....49356197a7f223

Everyone you talk to will give you a different opinion about specific Olds vendors. It's hard to sort through the BS. It's my opinion that finding a qualified Oldsmobile machinist is the hardest part. They are different to build than a Ford or Chevy. The best I have found is Bill Travato from BTR Racing on the east coast. In my eyes it's a lot smarter to spend a few extra bucks on shipping than to lose thousands on an engine build that didn't last. Save your money, know what you want or need. Do your research and invest in the best. Here's a long list of Olsmobile sights for you to surf. Some are good, some not. Keep us posted on your build.



http://www.btrperformance.com/
http://www.oldsclub.org/
http://www.droldmobile.com/id11.html
http://www.reolds.org/
http://www.rocket100.com/
http://www.antiqueolds.org/membership.html
http://www.rocketracingperformance.com/
http://www.oldsmobile1958.com/
http://www.442.com/
http://www.oldsmobileforum.com/forum/
http://www.oldsmobile.com/olds/heritage/index.html
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm
http://www.jeffmeister.com/1969hurst/
http://oldsgmail.com/
http://www.g-body.org/
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/
http://www.73-77olds.com/
http://davesmitheng.com/
http://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/rs~main.html
http://www.mjproformance.com/index.php
http://nichibei.tripod.com/link.htm
http://www.dickmillerracing.com/
http://oldsperformanceproducts.com/
http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/index.php
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/
http://www.kookscustomheaders.com/
http://www.pushrods.net/
http://www.pro-gram.com/
http://www.mjproformance.com/
http://www.hamptonblowers.com/
http://www.mondellotwister.com/
http://www.knowltonsthunderheads.com/
http://www.laurerracing.com/
http://home.comcast.net/~wmachines/WCAR/wmachines2.htm
http://www.drdecal.com/
http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html
http://www.442bro.com/
http://www.alstonracing.com/home.html
http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/
http://www.thegoodoldsdays.com/realoldsmobile.asp
http://hursthairyolds.com/default.aspx
http://www.davidsnydercarart.com/dsartwork.html
http://www.reoldsmuseum.org/
http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/olds ... 42/sx.html
http://www.edelbrock.com/
http://www.jsmachineoldsmobile.com/home.html
http://www.69olds.com/
http://www.exeterautosupply.com/Offenha ... talog.html
http://www.modernolds.net/
http://www.oldsmobility.com/
http://www.oldsparts.com/
http://home.comcast.net/~oldsfan/MySite/62oldspage.html
http://www.oldspower.se/
http://www.tedstevens.us/
http://www.ultra-high-compression.com/
http://www.wilwood.com/
http://www.holley.com/
http://www.eharwood.com/
http://www.strangeengineering.net/
http://www.hogansracingmanifolds.com/
http://www.rosspistons.com/
http://www.knowltonsthunderheads.com/
http://www.appliedracing.com/
http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampe ... amolds.htm
http://www.cachassisworks.com/cac_catalogs.html
http://www.csr-performance.com/
http://chassisengineering.com/
http://www.artfiberglass.com/auto/autofiberglass.html
http://www.heidts.com/
http://www.racehome.com/partsdir/pinjectl.htm
http://www.richmondgear.com/calculators.html
http://rocketstainedglass.com/default.aspx
http://www.romac.com.au/
http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm
http://www.glasstek.com/
http://www.marchperf.com/
http://www.wallaceracing.com/header_length.php

_________________

CaliBoricua

Just wanted to update everyone on my current rebuild and thank everyone for their help.
My engine is about 85% complete. I took everyone's advice and saved my money for high performance parts and of course machine shop work which seems more expensive than the parts. I had to re-use my old Forged pistions with new moly rings since the pistons were not that bad of shape and I had my engine balanced. I ended up replacing my J heads and FA block for C heads and F block. I have a new intake 455 Torker manifold, compcams lifters and compcams push rods which cost $180 due to size. I also have a billet flywheel and crankshaft balancer with some other high performace parts.
So far I am waiting to save on a carb, water pump, fuel pump and distributer. I have those things from my old engine but I want everything new. I decided to keep the engine painted red. I will share photos soon.

cutlassefi

What cam did you end up going with?

CaliBoricua

I went with the Edelbrock Camshaft with rough idling, can't remember what is the part number right now. I also went with the Edelbrock Performer 2151 Intake Manifold.
I have a Edelbrock carb from my old engine but it's been sitting for a while and from what I read it doesn't have a rebuild kit. I guess it's designed to last a long time and doesnt need to be rebuilt but I rather go new.

CaliBoricua

Does anyone have any recommendations on what kind of water and fuel pump I should get?
Not sure if I should get stock or not.
Thanks..

Aceshigh

Agreed totally.

Farm out the block prep and head work, and then .......
A consideration to build it yourself with the proper training might be worth looking into. I purchased these DVD's awhile ago which IMHO are the best damn investment I ever made. Teaches you how to tear down, and rebuild a motor from start to finish. It even includes part recommendations like a valvetrain tray, etc.

http://boxwrench.net/

CaliBoricua

I have that interactive DVD and I agree it's worth investing in especially for a novice such as myself.
But I was wondering if there is a big difference between a stock or after market water pump and a fuel pump? Is it worth vesting more money on those items or just buy a stock from Napa Auto Parts?
Thanks.

67 Cutlass Freak

I recomend you check out this fuel pump-
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/olds550.html
For any kind of performance build you should consider this upgrade. I would purchase the water pump from a reputable Olds vendor over a Napa unit.

CaliBoricua

Thanks for that link, I will check it out. I was going to check out summit racing for a good water pump.

CaliBoricua

I know its been a long time with ths motor but I am glad to say I am 95% complete. I atached some photos below..
All I need now is minor stuff like thermostat which I am going to buy today, water neck, spark plug and wires, etc. The bigges item right now is with my carb but I asked the mechanic to rebuild for $150 and my old one which is a EDELBROCK CARB 600 CFM 4-BBL but I am wondering if I should just buy a new carb like the Holley for $350.
This is my engine setup.

- Olds 455
- F Block
- C Heads
- Modular crankshaft
- Edelbrock Performer 2151 Intake Manifold
- Eldelbrock Performer Camshaft kit
- Compcams lifters
- Compcams push rods
- billet flywheel and crankshaft balancer
- Speed-Pro Power Forged Pistons ZL2323F30
- FlowKooler High Volume water pump
- Mallory Ignition Distributor
- MSD Ignition 31189 - MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire Sets (buying)
I cant think what else I have on this but anyhow checkou the photos.

Yes I know I painted it red but no way I am going with blue.

citcapp

Looks great

64Rocket

Cali what is your location ?
What car is this engine going in ?

Gene

CaliBoricua

I am in Sacramento right now and it was going in a 65 Cutlass but I got rid of it. I was way to deep with that car so I took a lost but I learned not to buy rust buckets especially a year when you can't find parts.
So now I just focus on completing the engine and sit on it until I can get a 67-70 Cutlass or a 67 Skylark. I put a lot of money in this engine finest I know it's going to be strong.

Any recommendation on a carbuator? Should I just have my edelbrock rebuilt or built a new Holly from Summit racing for $350?

Octania

Wow, that looks like an $8k engine to me. Sacramento & "rustbucket" in the same sentence? Really? There's a '68 H/O on epay right now that needs a full redo. Including an engine. Parts are a little easier to find than for a '65.

CaliBoricua

I didn't buy the car in Sacramento. I bought the car in Hollister (Near Salinas and Jose). I think for now I will save my money until I can find a car that just needs a engine with a straight body and decent interior. I have been searching Craigslist and its crazy what people are asking for on their broken down old school cars. Every since California start letting people get that 420 card people just haven't been the same lol

2blu442

Did you see this one yet? Sacto Craigslist.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/3224420085.html

CaliBoricua

Yeah I seen that one, looks like a lot of work and I am sure I would be able to talk that person down on the price but I will just wait.
I sold my 65 Cutlass for $1100 and have another $1800 saved up but I will wait until I can get at Lear 5K saved. I should find something in way better shape needing a motor.

Any opinions on about rebuilding my current Edelbrock Carburator or just buying a new one? I seen a Holly at Summit racing but not sure what to do.

real57vetteguy

I could be wrong and might get some folks upset, but it seems like you took your time and built a nice engine, from what I read your still looking for a Olds to put it in? maybe I'm wrong, but if so, slow down if your not trying to get the car/engine running tomorrow, dump the edel carb, you can buy a box carb off of summit but unless you are a good tuner which i take it your not, as well as most of us arent really great carb tuners I would buy one from a builder who tunes it for you, Dean Oliver does great quadrajets for a good price, Patrick James is awesome but pricey, there are several others. The reason I like to deal with guys like that is because if there are issues they will help you, good luck getting summit or holley etc to really help you.

CaliBoricua

I did consider that and still considering. I will just see what's the verdict on the carburetor in another week and if nothing I guess I will look at other options. Any suggestions?
Last week I received my purchased from summit racing so I am getting very close. I just dropped off to my mechanic MSD spark plug wires where he has to cut the length and install himself, water neck, flowkool or koolflow thermostat and Seperator/Loom by R&M in color red.

I just curious and this is just a question on opinions only. If was looking for a cutty needing a motor with a straight body and clean interior what kind of car would make a good investment and what year?

cutlassefi

I personally like the A bodies but you can't go wrong with anything 72 and before in my opinion.
Another carb to consider are the Quick Fuels. I've used a few, very good right out of the box and their tech help is very good as well.
Something to consider.

StickW31

x10

CaliBoricua

I lean more towards the A-Body type myself. Theres nothing cleaner then a 67 but 68 to 72's are nice as well.
I will post some photos shortly on the on the current status on the 455 with specs and status. I might swing by the mechanic's shop this Friday or Saturday.

Octania

That seems a tad pricey! My computer shows me a web page with what I hope is a typo due to page changes that were not done by a nitpicking detail person:

"Same Item, New Number
Speed Pro ZL2323F30 - Speed-Pro Forged Pistons
Piston, Forged, Dish, 4.155 in. Bore, 5/64 in., 5/64 in., 3/16 in. Ring, Oldsmobile V8, Each
$315.99
...Quantity:Sold individually...."

So, if you can get by with no spares, and only need 8 of them, that's
$2527.92 just for pistons...

svnt442

I think it was a typo. You should check the link to the new part number.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2323f30