nonhog

So I have this 455 thats been sitting for some time. Was a runner as told by the guy I got it from, but how well? and how long ago I don't know.
Unsure of the miles. I was going to take my chances(and still will to some degree) and just try it and see. Now I am thinking about pulling the pan and intake to get a look/see. I don't have the money to rebuild this engine.
I am however thinking about making sure the oil pump pu if free of gunk.
I have a Engle 20/22 cam I might install ?
So on the cheap what would you do it ?
Any high wear items ? timing chain ? oil pump ?

Eddie Hansen

well I am no expert, but why not pull the pan? I would do at least that, maybe get a gasket kit, some plastigauge why not check the bearing clearances? clean the oil pump as you say. you can take a look at the cylinder walls see what they are like, if your putting in a cam new lifters are fairly cheap, then replace the timing chain. your probably going to find a ton of gunk, and I am not sure if you can clean all that up while it is still assembled, but if the cam and lifters are out it may be possible. you can look at the heads, maybe lap the valves or clean them as much as you can. probably new seals would be in order.. I would really look at the soft parts and clean what ya can, but before you do that check some clearances to see if it is worthwhile? I don't know if it is done anymore but when i was a youngin LOL.. ( yeah when putting new rubber on the car meant fred flinstone got sneakers LOL) some guys used .005 oversized rings honed the cylinders etc, think they knurled the pistons can't be sure as i have never done it myself, but it could be the cheapest way to go without an overbore, could be the rings and pistons are fine?

just talking out loud more knowledgeable folks will chime in I am sure..

but as I said I would do at least some cursory checking, could be you can fix something relatively inexpensively now then running the motor with some serious problems and ruining it.

nonhog

Thanks for the reply Eddie ! I will pull the pan, I am wanting something better than the blue smoke special 425 thats in the Cutlass now.
I am full aware I may not be a happy camper but since my plans are to fully rebuild a differant 455 I have(future) I see no need to snow ball this one.
Just looking for friendly ideas.
Anybody else ?

Warhead

Timing chain.
New stock oil pump
Valve job (NO LAPPING FOR ME) with 3 angles on seats, 30 deg back cut on the intake.
New guides if needed
Cut for Viton positive wiping seals
New valve springs, remove rotators if present, real retainers
If it is a low compression engine, I would not hesitate to install the cam 4 degrees advanced.
Re-curve distributor.
Rebuild carburetor.
Block heat riser, go electric choke.
That's Just me
Jim

80_cutlass

Just did this same thing on a Chevy 350 for my sister.

Purchased:

New oil pan gasket
Timing set (with multi key-way)
Timing gaskets
Intake/exhaust gaskets

This was AFTER I had lubed up the bores and checked compression and then pulled the engine down, checked the bearings and oil pump clearances.

I installed the cam 4* advanced. Put the thing together and it has 35psi of oil pressure, hot, in gear. If the oil pump had been in question, I would have replaced it. The engine had been sitting for 10-12 years out in a field covered by a tarp. Could I have done more? Yup. But the evidence told me I did not need to.

Don't buy anything until you need to. Check everything, twice. Then get what you need and go. You might find you don't need to get anything but gaskets. Or you might find out that without an honest overhaul, it'll be a mosquito fogger and won't hold oil pressure.

sb

nonhog

Thanks guys ! glad to have your input.
" It'll be a mosquito fogger and won't hold oil pressure"

I've gone as cheap as hitting valves down with a hammer and ran it, to complete rebuilds and a few places in between.
Not saying I've done it all, far from it. Always good to get ideas and opinions.

At least it won't be a nightmare dropping engines in and out like the
5.0 Ford I am putting in a Volvo right now.

nonhog

Been thinking about it and I'll pull the pan, heads. Get a look inside.
Probably run the JM 20/22 cam as it has springs that came with it.
Also have adj. push rods will I need those on that cam ?

I have a set of 2" intake C heads that are bare and may have had hardened seats installed or so it looks.
The cam is not that big so will it matter which heads I run ? E's on there now.


Other than looking at the bores anything I can do to check good ring seal ?

Thanks !

radioburningchrome

In relation to the valve job, is that a general procedure to follow for any Olds engine?

Where could I get my distributor recurved?

nonhog

Not sure how close you are to Rochester NY you are but BTR sure seems to have a good rep.

http://www.btrperformance.com/contact_us.html

scubastever

wait wait... is this yours??

http://blog.cardomain.com/2009/03/31...on-craigslist/

citcapp

You might find that the E heads are large valve when you pull them. If that's the case I would use them instead of the small valve C's

nonhog

Not mine but if my wife saw that it might be.
Heres mines (her's) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366363

nonhog

I've been on the fence about pulling the heads, I think you just talked me into buying a head gasket set.
Even if they end up small valves I could see the bore condition etc.

Warhead

Yes, except the 2.07 intakes with a 30 degree seat to start with. These seem to like a nibble of a 15 degree touch.
The exhaust side does not really seem to respond well to any back cuts.

I can backcut your valves for $2 each, or seatcut valves with a backcut for $4.
Jim

nonhog

Pulled the intake last night, found a few interesting things.

1st) distributor tight! I've heard of that before, but never had one.
2nd) 2 stuck lifters cam looked good from what I could tell.
3rd) really hard to turn over

It was pretty gunky inside but I've seen worse. I had shot some MMO inside the spark plug holes weeks before, just in case.
I think this one has been sitting too long.
I'll likely pass on running it but will decide for sure after I pull the heads and pan.

Good news is I have the crank from my other 455 at the machine shop waiting word on its condition. Made a big mistake while talking with the machine shop owner I said " I'm not in a big hurry" then told him
"Crap did I just tell a machine shop that I was not in a big hurry?"
He laughed and I probably went to the very back of the line.
If that crank is o.k. I'll send over the block, and start a different thread.