cost for valve job on a 455
#1
cost for valve job on a 455
My driver side bank of cylinders is burning oil...The only sparkplug with oil on it is the front one on the driverside...Me and my uncle took the vlave covers off and cleaned out the oil drain holes out..They were pretty clogged up....Since then a oil change happened..But the smoking is still there,,,I can start it up and let it idle all day long and it wont smoke..It only smokes basically when i come to a stop and take off..Or if i let off the throttle and coast to a stop it will start smoking while I am stopped..And then blow out a big puff when i take off and the the smoking stops while I am driving it...My uncle told me he thinks its the valve seals or guides....How much would a rebuild cost,,and would it be better to pull the engine and just get it over with with a rebuild kit...Other then smoking the 455 will light up the rear tires and has a strong pull....If i get just the heads done I was told by a few it will blow out the bottom end...
#4
I had a set of 70 E heads done for 800.00. I was surprised at the cost but the heads are like new. Replace all exhaust valves.
I do not know what umbrella seals are but you could try changing the valve seals themselves. I know with Chebie motors it is a common solution to a common problem of smoking.
I do not know what umbrella seals are but you could try changing the valve seals themselves. I know with Chebie motors it is a common solution to a common problem of smoking.
#5
I do not know what umbrella seals are but you could try changing the valve seals themselves.
You can replace them with the engine and heads still on the car. You need a basic set of tools, a valve spring compressor, and about 5 feet of nylon rope.
You take all of the spark plugs out and feed the nylon rope into each cylinder one at a time. You ensure the valves in that cylinder are closed and rotate the engine slightly by hand until the nylon rope compresses and pushes against the valves. Then you use a valve spring compressor to remove the springs. Finally, you remove the valve guide seals and replace them. It isn't too hard to do, especially if you already have the valve covers off.
#7
Feed rope into the cylinder until you can't put anymore in. Then move the crank with a wrench slightly so the rope compresses against the valves. Make sure the rope is artificial. Nylon works best. Don't use hemp or sisal rope. It will shed fibers in the cylinder and this could cause scoring.
#8
I just had a valve job and hardened exhaust seats installed. $325. Don't necessarily need the seats, but the machinist wouldn't guarantee his work, or let them out of the shop without them. Guess he needs extra money too...
#13
I will keep my post updated,,i am going to try the nylon rope inside the cylinder that keeps covering the plug with oil and change the valve seals and see what happends...if it happends to fix it i will be totally happy and will go ahead and bolt my new headers on..
OLDS64
Do i bring the piston up or down before feeding in the rope?
OLDS64
Do i bring the piston up or down before feeding in the rope?
Last edited by 1973olds98; August 26th, 2009 at 07:47 PM.
#15
Not to be rude but if you need to ask this its a good idea to get someone with the abilities to do the job! Its not that it is hard but to explain to someone over the net who maybe can or cant do it without messing something up is... my advise is get someone you know that turns wrenches and ask them sorry if it seams like a slam but engines can be tricky
#16
I charge $250 for your basic valve job. It just goes up from there, such as new guides, hard seats, new valves, valve springs. Just how far do you want to go.
I use my air compressor to put air in the cyl to hold the valves shut.
You have to take the rocket arms off, that is how both valves are closed. Also you have to use a special valve spring compressor to remove the springs. Like "84 Rocket" said if you have to ask that question, you should not attempt. No slam intended, It is not something you can do in a few minutes. In order to get the valve covers off a few brackets have to be moved.
You should take a compression test first or a leak down check.
Gene
I use my air compressor to put air in the cyl to hold the valves shut.
You have to take the rocket arms off, that is how both valves are closed. Also you have to use a special valve spring compressor to remove the springs. Like "84 Rocket" said if you have to ask that question, you should not attempt. No slam intended, It is not something you can do in a few minutes. In order to get the valve covers off a few brackets have to be moved.
You should take a compression test first or a leak down check.
Gene
#17
Thanks everyone who has actually offered help instead of slams...While my post may make me sound helpless I have been turning wrenches on cars for awhile but never have messed with the head assembly,,,
ps..I just got back from walmart with the rope and autozone with the seals...I see now removing the rocker arms would make the valves close...lol,,,,
ps..I just got back from walmart with the rope and autozone with the seals...I see now removing the rocker arms would make the valves close...lol,,,,
Last edited by 1973olds98; August 27th, 2009 at 05:02 AM.
#20
Here's my advice and it is also good for valve adjust ...
Loosen distributor cap. When the rotor points to the correct cylinder you can be assured that you are on TDC FOR THAT CYLINDER (or close enough)...
Loosen distributor cap. When the rotor points to the correct cylinder you can be assured that you are on TDC FOR THAT CYLINDER (or close enough)...
#21
OK i got the cylinder done where there is always oil on the sparkplug...The seals were pretty dried up and brittle...Should i do them all or put it back together to see if that elimanates it from smoking..thanks for the rope trick...I was teling my uncle nd he thought i was crazy...but it worked fine..
#23
I never heard the rope trick before. I welded an air hose fitting on to a spark plug base and fill the cylinder with 120 PSI. I've used it for 20 years and never dropped a valve yet.
Dave
Dave
#24
I've never heard the rope trick either, but I like the idea. I am used the 64 Rockets method and air, but on a semi worn to very worn engine, you can leak down alot of air quick. Not like that nylon rope is going to hurt anything being compressed up against the valves and a more solid hold in my opinion and not have to worry how worn the rings are and if its going to leak down.
My Opinion 1973, if you are there, feel energetic and confident, I'd do them all. You may have fixed this one, but if its brittle, likely the others are too and close behind that one. The seals are not that much, its the labor and time you want to invest is to be the deciding factor.
My Opinion 1973, if you are there, feel energetic and confident, I'd do them all. You may have fixed this one, but if its brittle, likely the others are too and close behind that one. The seals are not that much, its the labor and time you want to invest is to be the deciding factor.
#25
Oh, and I do also agree with 64 on a valve job. Don't fall for that $90 quote crap. That is just for disassemble, hot tank, mag and clean up your seats and valve with a machine. Thats it. By the time you add hardened seats, valve guides and do not fall for the knurling short lived crap, just replace them preferably bronze if you budget allows, and a few valves your $90 valve job per head can easily double or close to triple. I also like to get a pressure test for cracks, not just a mag, and a triple angle job which cost a bit more too for the labor involved. I normally tell people you will spend about as much on your heads as you will your block. My 21 yo son in law told me he loves SBC, he is gonna rebuild one for $500 top to bottom. I told him no he isn't and explained machine work and head work and he is now putting the build on the back burner for income tax refund next April. At least he listened.
#27
$250 is the new $90.
You are a lucky mother tucker if you do not need anything else when you build the heads. 1 out of 100 are like this. REALLY GUYS.
With all of the oil this guy claims it is pumping, I think it needs more than a valve job. REALLY
Jim
You are a lucky mother tucker if you do not need anything else when you build the heads. 1 out of 100 are like this. REALLY GUYS.
With all of the oil this guy claims it is pumping, I think it needs more than a valve job. REALLY
Jim
Last edited by citcapp; September 1st, 2009 at 08:57 AM.
#28
warhead
Its not pumping tons of oil out the exhaust,,,,,lol,,,,And yes I beleive that is all i need..With the valve seals recently replaced the smoke is gone...So I hope I was lucky,,,
Its not pumping tons of oil out the exhaust,,,,,lol,,,,And yes I beleive that is all i need..With the valve seals recently replaced the smoke is gone...So I hope I was lucky,,,
Last edited by 1973olds98; September 1st, 2009 at 09:00 AM.
#33
I would just get an air compressor and put air in the cylinder instead of feeding rope into the piston it’s a lot easier
QUOTE=1973olds98;103471]I will keep my post updated,,i am going to try the nylon rope inside the cylinder that keeps covering the plug with oil and change the valve seals and see what happends...if it happends to fix it i will be totally happy and will go ahead and bolt my new headers on..
OLDS64
Do i bring the piston up or down before feeding in the rope?[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=1973olds98;103471]I will keep my post updated,,i am going to try the nylon rope inside the cylinder that keeps covering the plug with oil and change the valve seals and see what happends...if it happends to fix it i will be totally happy and will go ahead and bolt my new headers on..
OLDS64
Do i bring the piston up or down before feeding in the rope?[/QUOTE]
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