495 BB Stroker/Spark Plug/Air filter test
#1
495 BB Stroker/Spark Plug/Air filter test
Torn about whether to put it here or in the Racing and High performance section but here it goes.
Eagle Stroker kit, 4.185x4.500, internally balanced
J&S 5 main halo
Edelbrock heads (out of the box)
Custom Lunati Hyd roller
Canton deep pan
Melling HV pump
VR-1 20W-50
QF/Brawler 850 Carb
Performer RPM intake cut to fit, center divider cut 1 1/2".
Comp cams 1632-16 Roller Rockers
Pertronix Igniter III Billet dist.
Accel 9000 wires
NGK 4644 plugs/MSD Iridium plugs
No ignition box/MSD Blaster coil
Remember this is blowing thru 2' of pipe and Magnaflow 2.5" mufflers
This is the second plug test I've done in the last month. Nothing other than the NGK's are worth the money imo. Amazing huh?
Last edited by cutlassefi; April 1st, 2019 at 05:26 PM.
#3
Here are the final numbers for this build.
I'm going to vent a bit here. I will post the pull before this that had 34* of timing instead of the posted 32*. This is an aluminum headed 10.0:1 build running 93 octane fuel and properly jetted.
My point? You'll see that it made LESS power with 34 than it did with 32. I've been very vocal here with some who continue to tell others to start with 36*@3000 of total advance, on virtually any and every build. This one had 32* at 3500rpm and made the best peak AND overall power at that.
In the last 5 years with almost 40 different Oldsmobile builds on the dyno, I have YET to see the most power of any sort at 36. If you don't know for sure that he or she's build will work best at that setting then please don't post. Thank you.
Last edited by cutlassefi; April 2nd, 2019 at 05:22 PM.
#4
I would think less timing is especially true with aluminum heads. I found 36 fastest at the track but my stuff wasn't fast to begin with and doesn't mean it is the number. Also my cars run best with as much part throttle timing as they can tolerate. Some agree with this, others don't. Of course this is where EFI is nice, it overrides our stupidity and puts timing where it is most ideal.
#5
How EFI has anything to do with putting timing where it needs to be? With alot of free time and parts, you can build even distributor to have that perfect ignition curve to your engine. Or you can buy separate programmable ignition system.
Yet, some ignition systems may have few base tunes available for you to choose, but its not any different than distributor having mechanically controlled ignition curve.
Wheres the EFI part of the equation?
Yet, some ignition systems may have few base tunes available for you to choose, but its not any different than distributor having mechanically controlled ignition curve.
Wheres the EFI part of the equation?
#6
Dynos and spark plugs. Dynos often show less timing is best, while racing shows more timing gets the best numbers many times. The actual power numbers will vary as well.
I suspect the best plugs might be the ND or Denso plugs, if the right one can be found there. But, whatever an engine likes the best is what they like. On my old street 461 engine with steel heads I used Denso plugs which burned absurdly clean over time, but with a different cam and ported aluminum heads I am back in search mode for the best plug. So I bought many heat ranges and brands, to try for a few months on the street and see what each one tells me about how it is surviving in the new combo over time.
I suspect the best plugs might be the ND or Denso plugs, if the right one can be found there. But, whatever an engine likes the best is what they like. On my old street 461 engine with steel heads I used Denso plugs which burned absurdly clean over time, but with a different cam and ported aluminum heads I am back in search mode for the best plug. So I bought many heat ranges and brands, to try for a few months on the street and see what each one tells me about how it is surviving in the new combo over time.
#7
Too bad dynos don't have wheels or go down a racetrack. The Olds engines I've tuned at the track have always kept going faster when starting at 32* and adding more timing up to around 36*, in bad air picked some up at 38*. My iron headed 468 made more power with 34* on the dyno, should be going down the track this summer finally.
#8
I agree, the Dyno is not the track, and the track is not the Dyno. However my point was to not go to that number automatically. I still don’t believe its the right number for every combination as many have eluded to.
And when it comes to EFI, there is no programmable aftermarket ignition capable of doing what a good EFI system can do. Although they will compensate for RPM and load, they do not have the ability to compensate for both engine coolant and intake air temperature. Both are key, especially in boosted applications.
And when it comes to EFI, there is no programmable aftermarket ignition capable of doing what a good EFI system can do. Although they will compensate for RPM and load, they do not have the ability to compensate for both engine coolant and intake air temperature. Both are key, especially in boosted applications.
#9
Ah, i was tied to not seeing that we were talking generally, i just looked your built.
Is there aftermarket plug'n'play EFI's, mainly speaking of TBI-style ones, that can adjust to baro or engine temp?
Is there aftermarket plug'n'play EFI's, mainly speaking of TBI-style ones, that can adjust to baro or engine temp?
#10
They all have a temp reference anymore. Baro is internal in most but still has to be configured to make the best its values.
#11
Comp Cams 1632-16 Rockers
I see these are for a SBF. Is there an advantage to these compared to a part designed for an Olds head/
Do they require guide plates and/oror additional machining? 7/16 stud?
I see these are for a SBF. Is there an advantage to these compared to a part designed for an Olds head/
Do they require guide plates and/oror additional machining? 7/16 stud?
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