Distributor vacuum control switch/valve
#1
Distributor vacuum control switch/valve
Okay so my 1971 ninety eight was in a warehouse for 30 years so a lot of the sensors with plastic parts broke.
My DVCS has a broken electrical connector on the top. I was going to attempt a temporary repair to get it operating as it is supposed to, be at the rest of the electrical part broke to pieces. I can't find a replacement anywhere. It's in the service manual, but not in any auto stores or even eBay. Probably will end up being $200 if I do find one lol
I know how to bypass it with the vacuum lines, but what do I know do with the wiring that goes to the transmission? Is it okay just disconnected?
Thanks
My DVCS has a broken electrical connector on the top. I was going to attempt a temporary repair to get it operating as it is supposed to, be at the rest of the electrical part broke to pieces. I can't find a replacement anywhere. It's in the service manual, but not in any auto stores or even eBay. Probably will end up being $200 if I do find one lol
I know how to bypass it with the vacuum lines, but what do I know do with the wiring that goes to the transmission? Is it okay just disconnected?
Thanks
#2
I was actually able to find some online. Part number 410052.... $300 hahaha.... Maybe someday I'll get one but for now I'm just interested in getting it running right. I need to get the timing and points set up correct.
Right now I have the distributor advance vacuum line going to the ported vacuum on the front of the carburetor. And the transmission line going to the manifold. If I'm understanding correctly, the wore coming from the transmission, just tells the switch that it's in 3rd or 4th gear so leaving it disconnected should be okay right? Just seems like it would cause some drivability issues but maybe im wrong.
Right now I have the distributor advance vacuum line going to the ported vacuum on the front of the carburetor. And the transmission line going to the manifold. If I'm understanding correctly, the wore coming from the transmission, just tells the switch that it's in 3rd or 4th gear so leaving it disconnected should be okay right? Just seems like it would cause some drivability issues but maybe im wrong.
#3
Just leave the wiring disconnected/tied to the harness and your fine connecting your vacuum to ported manifold vacuum. If it seems to run way hotter when idling, you can connect the vacuum advance to manifold (which will advance the timing to compensate for the lean mixtures at idle) and turn your idle speed down.
#4
Agreed, the way you have it connected is the same as I have mine. That switch is an early attempt at emissions control and sacrificed performance and economy for reduced emissions. I tossed that switch in the toolbox back in the 80s and have never considered putting it back in.
#5
Just leave the wiring disconnected/tied to the harness and your fine connecting your vacuum to ported manifold vacuum. If it seems to run way hotter when idling, you can connect the vacuum advance to manifold (which will advance the timing to compensate for the lean mixtures at idle) and turn your idle speed down.
My distributor vacuum advance is connected to ported vacuum on front of carburetor while my automatic transmission modulator vacuum line is connected to manifold vacuum w/ wiring disconnected & tied back at the wiring harness as Eric stated above.
Agreed, the way you have it connected is the same as I have mine. That switch is an early attempt at emissions control and sacrificed performance and economy for reduced emissions. I tossed that switch in the toolbox back in the 80s and have never considered putting it back in.
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#6
If you remove the DVCS you can use the port later for a coolant temp sensor for a gauge or electric fan if you decide to install one. I'm actually going to do an electric fan install on my 71 98 before too long.
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June 11th, 2019 09:06 AM