streets

Hello Everyone
I would like to get a look at the timing chain and gears of my 1966 Toronado with a stock 425 without pulling the engine.
In researching several old posts, I found that someone has successfully done this.

425 Toronado Timing Cover Plate


It would seem that if the front of the engine was properly lifted and supported by maybe an inch, the front cradle engine support could be pulled out forward gaining access to the timing chain cover plate. I realize the oil pan would have to be lowered so a new oil pan seal can be installed. SM states to pull the engine, but I would rather avoid it if I can. I also don't have a hoist.

Has anyone done this?

Thanks,

streets

442Harv

Not real knowledgeable with theses cars. Is there a front piece, in front of the cover, and bolted, to the motor? Is that you question? If it is in front, of cover, and making it impossible to remove the cover, you would have to remove it. You should be able to support the engine, and remove both. If you can't remove the pan, or lower it enough to replace the bottom seal, you can cut the little ends off, and seal it good with a sealer. This is not the way I like to seal it, but will probably work. Have done that on BB Chevy, not on a Olds, but I think it would work.

joe_padavano

I suspect the OP's problem is not the front mount but that crossmember that runs right in front of the motor. From the photo, it isn't clear if there is enough room to get the cover off over the crank snout.

Obviously the first problem is supporting the motor to allow removal of the front mount.

The reason why the CSM tells you to remove the engine on a Toro is because to remove the front cover (for any Olds motor), the second step is to "remove oil pan". Due to the location of the trans valve body on the TH425, you cannot access the driver side oil pan bolts in a Toro unless you pull the motor. If you can get the cover past that crossmember, then you can replace the timing chain and use the brute force method to reinstall the cover with the oil pan in place. It's not pretty, but we've all done this before.

streets

Thanks 442Harv and for checking on this Joe

The rebuilt balancer just came today and I will see where that puts the #1 piston.
I have been able to do this like 442Harv suggested on a BBC. Trimming the front oil pan seal worked then.
Hopefully tomorrow or later in the week I may attempt to drop the pan after raising the engine. How high is unknown yet.
The front motor mount bracket that looks like a U-shaped saddle with (angle iron) on the bottom is straddling the front cross member as Joe mentioned by a little bit. It looks like there is no clearance should someone try to RR the crank seal.

Pics are top (crankshaft) to bottom (cross member)

Center

Bottom-Cross member