epinkston

Thought I knew what i had until i looked at the stamp on the block pad. Number on the front of the block is 396021 F has C heads and was told it was out of a 69 98. But the block pad is stamped L5E01708L. Anyone have a clue how to decipher that?

Thanks

deadeyejedi

got some real good numbers guys on here that will figure it out for you.that number looks to me it would be 67 or earlier engine .Dont quote me on this but if that were a 69 455 that number should start with 39.

svnt442

I'm wondering if it's an irrigation engine?

joe_padavano

The castings are consistent with a 1968-69 455, however is the "F" a san serif or serif "F"? Is it F or F? That stamp is not a factory VIN derivative, so it could be anything. Could be a marine or industrial motor, could be a rebuild with the rebuilder's stamp. Bottom line is that the stamp won't tell you anything. Factory VIN derivative stamps from 68-69 will be nine characters. The first will always be a "3" for Oldsmobile division. The second will be the year. The third will be the assembly plant. The final six will be digits, not letters. Post a photo of the stamp if possible.

epinkston

Thanks all, I got some pics and uploaded here. Looks like its an FA block, didn't see the A before. This block doesn't have the hole for the zbar stud and no pad to bore it, I will be making a bracket instead. This is the main reason I began trying to verify everything. It is mated to a Muncie 4 speed so either the crank already had the hole or the previous owner cut it. The intake and exhaust manifolds, and C heads also backup the story but i know nothing can be verifed by them, may never know for sure. As far as i know these are all the relevant numbers, if i missed anything let me know and i will take more pics tomorrow.

Eric

epinkston

epinkston

epinkston

epinkston

epinkston

joe_padavano

This is not a factory stamp, so it could mean anything. There were a lot of 455s used in marine applications in the 1970s. If you really want a manual trans, your least expensive path may be to get an earlier block before you put any money into this one.

epinkston

So the plan with the car for me is this. It's a 68 real 442, bucket, console, manual, no ac, no power steering or brakes. Original turquoise and parchment with a white top. I got the car for next to nothing and it has rust here and there, uaual places, fender, lower quarters, floor pans etc. The engine looks good so far and has compression. I plan to put it back together and get it running. If it runs I will do the body work and then sell the car. If it doesn't run I will probably part the car out. No plans to put any big money in this car though. If I was going to keep it I would find another correct year 400. I'm not the guy to take this car back to its full glory but also don't want to see it cutup if possible.

joe_padavano

If you're just looking to flip it, you can get a used TH400 for a lot less than getting the clutch linkage to work. Sell the Muncie and you more than pay for the automatic parts.

epinkston

Yeah I thought about the aitomauto option as well but a bracket shouldn't be too hard for the zbar. The clutch is new and hopefully fine. I will make a bracket and see how it goes. If I get it all backbtogebackand everything works I'm winning. At this point I don't want to sink anymore money into it.

epinkston

Well after careful thought I have decided to part the car out. Too many things to do for me to invest my time. Hopefully someone will want to restore it or use some parts as a donor.

Thanks all for your time and input, it was very helpful as always. This forum is a great place and has the most knowledgeable people on this subject I have ever met.