rpinnt

I need to have my crank drilled for a 4 speed. The engine had been rebuilt but never run, still on an engine stand. My engine builder really doesn't want to take the crank out and accordingly quoted $500. Can I take out the crank myself without completely disassembling the engine? I have read where others have done this with the engine still in the car. I would assume that I would have to replace the rear main seal but is there anything else that I'm missing? Is this something that I could do or should I bite the expensive bullet and have him do it?

matt69olds

I don't see how you could remove the crank from the engine while it's still in the car. You can remove the crank from the engine without complete disassembly. The procedure is shown in the service manual, basically position the crank in a certain spot, remove all the caps, cover the bolts with rubber hose, and use rubber bands and oil pan bolts to hold the rods out of the way to lift the crank out.

shiftbyear

I think if you are careful you can drill the crank with the engine in the car. I think they sell a special bearing that can use the auto crank flange. You either grind the end of the trans input shaft or drill the crank, doesn't have to be perfect. The only thing I would be concerned about is will the flywheel balance the same as the flexplate. There are many posts about doing this. Good luck

allyolds68

He didn't say anything about taking the crank out while the engine is still in the car


You can drill the recess for the input shaft of the tranny you just can't (easily) machine the crank for the correct pilot bearing or bushing. Once the recess is drilled you can use the conversion bearing


Personally, I'm cheap, so..... with the motor out of the car I'd put it in a cradle, make a plate to attach to the crank, rent or borrow a mag drill, and drill the recess to the correct depth and maybe a little larger diameter. Then I'd use the conversion bearing.


FWIW a machine shop just drilling the crank is going to run $100-$200. To do it right is only going to cost you $300 more

rpinnt

I would rather not use the conversion bearing. Eventually the engine will go back to the engine shop for break in on the dyno. I am leaning towards taking the crank out myself and having him reassemble it after machining. Probably won't save a lot of $$ doing it this way but it will help.

rpinnt

Today I started the tear down to remove the crank. I got the engine on the stand and removed the damper and then oil pan. It appears that the water pump & timing cover need to come off as well (along with the alternator, power steering pump, etc.) I'm starting to doubt my ability, especially since the engine has not even been broken in. If there are any issues whatsoever I'll be the one blamed by the engine builder even if nothing I did was wrong. I might just strip off the exterior parts and let him do the internals.


I did notice that when I removed the oil pan there wasn't much of a seal. What is the "proper" way to seal it? Cement the gasket to the block or pan and RTV the other side or just dry?


I also have two of my oil pan studs that just wont stay tight in the block. I've tried thread locker but hasn't worked. They come right out when I remove the nut. Any suggestions?

425HP409

oldcutlass

Now you know why the builder wanted $500 to do it. Its a lot of work, your heading in the right direction.

ReallyWildStuff

Re: sealing the oil pan gasket -

my experience is that if there is a cork gasket involved, it should be doing all the sealing - not RTV. Apply a light application of yellow gorilla snot adhesive to the pan side of the gasket (only enough to keep the gasket in place during assembly) and install the gasket dry to the block surface. Nominally a gasket applied in this manner could be re-used as it should come off with the pan.

RTV has its place in some applications as a material with which to make a gasket - but not necessarily Olds oil pans.

I endorse your idea of stripping your engine of external component (leave a couple bolts in the oil pan to protect the bottom end during transport - doesn't have to be sealed up) and have your engine builder R&R the crank/mains.

Make sure they inspect/replace the rubber (not rope) Rear Main Seal, and that it is installed correctly (staggered), before you put the oil pan back on.

Before resealing the oil pan (if you haven't already) you could also mic the distance from the oil pickup to the pan sump and make sure its as close as you want it to be.

joe_padavano

^^^THIS! The RTV will just act as a lubricant to allow the gasket to squeeze out under pressure. Cork gaskets are to be installed dry, with high-tack if needed. Use a dab of RTV in the corners where the rubber end seals mate to the cork.