crholds442

What does it take to swap out a roller cam for another roller cam when the 455 engine is in car? Is it possible to do this w/o removing the Edelbrock performer intake manifold? The present cam is too radical at idle to safely drive thru stoplights on the way to a Sunday afternoon Starbucks drive. This is a 442 convertible and is not a drag strip performer. I've always wanted a hot engine, but that turns out to be not what I need in this car. The engine is hooked up to a T-400 and a limited slip 3.23 to 1. On top is a 750 cfm edelbrock quad set up for big engines.

redoldsman

No it is not possible. You will also have to remove the radiator and possible the AC condenser. This is not an easy job or one for the faint hearted.

joe_padavano

How would you remove the lifters without pulling the intake?

The cam is just about as long as the engine, so measure from the front cover to the backside of the grill. I suspect you need to remove the radiator, A/C condenser, and possibly the bolt-in center part of the core support. Obviously the whole front of the motor needs to come apart as well as the intake, valve covers, rockers, pushrods, lifters, and distributor.

Kennybill

Jmo, take the engine out.

oldcutlass

As Joe and others have pointed out, the engine can stay in but all the components he mentioned need to be removed. Do not disconnect the A/C lines, unbolt the units and swing them out of the way. Have you changed the stall speed for the torque converter to compensate for the radical cam?

What cam part number/ manufacturer are you running?

Fun71

This is what I did and had sufficient room to remove and install the cam.

CRUZN 66

X2... But if you don't have the means to remove the engine, you have to do what you have to do to get the job done...

crholds442

Erson cam E540996 Grind:RH276/340; RH292/355; 110+4
Overlap: 64.00
Intake opens: 32.00 Exhaust closes: 32.00
Intake closes: 64.00 Exhaust opens: 80.00
Running clearance: 0.00 & same hot
Valve lift: Intake: .544 Exhaust: .568
Duration: Intake:276 Exhaust 292

I watched a UTube clip of a guy changing out cams on a Camaro using flat bars he slid into the block to hold the lifters. Wondered if a olds v8 would do the same. My engine has stock aluminum edelbrock heads and forged pistons.
Preignition is minor when floored and timing and advance Can be tweaked some more. Still unsure about the Edelbrock quad. Will probably rebuild a vacuum Holley quad for a large engine. T-400 trans completely gone thru with normal converter. Suspect left bank exhaust blow and sputter is due to internal muffler baffle(s) rattling loose.

Would certainly be nice to not need a cam swap out to calm the engine down. Hopefully fine tuning ignition and carb will make the car easier and more trustworthy at a stoplight.. Guys... as always... appreciate your input and experience!!

Qwik71442

What's the cam duration @ .050? sounds like you may need a proper converter if the one you have is stock type stall

crholds442

@.050 tappet rise:
overlap: 5.00;
Intake opens: 4.00; exhaust closes:1.00
Intake closes: 36.00;exhaust opens: 49.00
Duration intake: 220.00; duration exhaust 230.00
Lobe lift intake: 0.340; Lobe lift exhaust: 0.355
intake centerline: 106
rocker arm ratio: 1.60 (confirmed Scorpion needle bearing rockers @ 1.60)

I was told that a standard rpm converter was all I needed.

I am not knowledgeable regarding cam specs. I know that I don't have enough vacuum to operate power disc brakes well enough. I know that I've had a heck of a time trying to resolve idle issues and dying at stop lights. I've done compression tests and leak down tests. I have changed from a Chinese HEI to a OEM distributor with Pertronix ignitor III set up and it works well.

Guys.... tell me about the cam and what can I expect from this grind?? What can I expect from the Edelbrock quad, Holley quad, what other brand carbs?

Run to Rund

That cam is not very big. You should be able to increase timing at idle by setting initial at 12 deg. and using a very quick curve so some of it is in at idle, setting idle around 1000 rpm, with a proper torque converter. BTW: A few racers used internal star washers on the pushrod tips inside the lifter snap rings so they could remove the rockers and lift up the pushrods and lifters. Then they could change cams without removing the intake manifold. That is just background info, and not applicable to your situation.

Kennybill

I agree about the stock converter is to tight. This car would be a perfect example for a switch pitch converter but that's not an option for most people. You need what the use to call a Saturday night special or a Street Fighter. I'd call TCI or Hughes and see what they recommend. I'm sure you'll get an answer here also. I would suggest a little more stall but you want to get this right the first time because of cost. On the other hand as a driver car you don't want to have to much stall. Jmo

Qwik71442

If it were mine I would remove the stock converter and try the Hughes 2500 stall converter. It will let it idle good in gear and will respond quickly when you step on the gas pedal like a stock converter does.

You can also curve the distributor to have 12-18 degrees initial timing with a total around 32 to 36 max. The more initial timing at idle you have usually will smooth out the idle. The vacuum can connected to direct manifold vacuum will help also but make sure it's limited to 10-15 degrees max.

Lastly, the Carb might possibly be lean at idle and need to be richened up. When you say Edelbrock quad I assume you mean quadrajet? I would put a 750 Quickfuel or similar Carb.

To me it's one, two or a combination of all three above to resolve the issues you are having.

Here is a link to the converter with threaded pads for the olds flexplate:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-gm25-bpo

I just noticed your in Texas, where you at?

Fun71

Advance apologies as I am usually tactful, but whomever told you that is full of bull spit and you need to quit talking to them. I have never heard of a "standard rpm converter" and I've heard lots of BS in the past 40+ years of being a gearhead.

As said, a Hughes 2500 may be a good converter for your application but also, as said, asking the converter manufacturers what would be best is a good plan.

matt69olds

If the cam is hairy enough to affect idle vacuum, it's rowdy enough to need a looser converter.

A good quality converter won't feel mushy at part throttle and will be easy to drive. My Coan 10 inch converter flashes to 3900 and is easy enough to drive. Call Coan, ATI, Hughes, etc and have as much engine info as possible. The more info you have, the better they can advise you on what converter you need.

Btw, swapping converters is a walk in the park compared to a cam swap in the car.

crholds442

I live in Conroe, TX.
Timing is set at 18 degrees w/o vacuum hooked up. Tweaked the idle jets and bumped up idle when @ full temp. The engine has smoothed out and is really a torquer when I floor it. This is when the vacuum is hooked back up. No noticeable ping with the top down. I'll check total advance when I can get my wife out to work the gas. As a side bar.... after a 7 year frame off rebuild in my garage...she is still hanging in there. I tread lightly.

I'll take the car into Lone Star Transmissions and ask them about a converter for this car. One of the owners (who rebuilt the unit) knows a lot about the T-400 and converters. If I can get the idle down to 800, reliably, do I really need a higher rpm swapout??

I have a rebuilt 455 OEM quadrajet for what used to be a 1974 Toronado 455. I'll stick that on and see how it runs. I just thought 6 years ago that Edelbrock all around, upper end equipment was the way to go.

Thanks guys ....lot'sa good things to mull over!!

olds 307 and 403

Where does the current converter flash at? Floor it off the line, watch the tach needle, it should jump to a certain rpm on the tach before it spins or takes off. If it runs fine as is, leave it alone. You could add 2 more degrees of base timing, it should give around 36-38 total. Are you running manifold vacuum for the advance? The Edelbrock 750 is a known POS, be glad it isn't a stumbling mess. You could try the Qjet, it may be a bit lean at idle.