gbledsoe3

Here's what I'm thinking. If I left anything out or should change something, please correct me. I want to get this assembled with all the front accessories and v-belts installed, if possible.

1. Short Block
2. Install Cam – Hydraulic Roller
3. Degree Cam
4. Adjust Cam thrust button so .010 clearance between brass button and timing cover
5. Install Cylinder Heads
* Using ARP bolts, apply ARP lube
* Torque to spec.
* Back off and torque again (bolt will tighten slightly more)
6. Install Oil Pump (Melling HV)
* May need to clearance housing for main cap bolt
* Install Oil Pump Pick-up
8. Install Timing Cover
* Install crank seal (Which side goes in?)
* Does crank seal flange go on outside or side?
* Don’t forget timing mark indicator
* What about water pump – now or later?
9. Temporarily install oil pan
10. Install Balancer
* Lubricate crank and balancer (What lubricant?)
* Using install tool, press on until bottoms out.
11. Install Balancer Bolt
* Lubricate and torque (180 lb-ft or impact wrench)
12. Bring Engine to TDC
* Verify mark on balancer
13. Install Hydraulic Roller Lifters
* Clean and soak in oil (what weight and how long?)
14. Install Valley Tray
* What bolts (size, length and thread pitch) since mine are missing?
* What torque for two bolts? (or just tight)
15. Install Valve Train
* Soak roller rockers in oil until air bubbles stop (approximately how long?)
* Install push rods, dabbing top with moly (assembly lube?)
* Place roller rocker with radius down and flat up.
* Check for any interference before installing locks.
* One by one, dab moly (assembly lube?) on top of studs and end of valve.
* Rotate crank until lifter is on the base circle of cam.
* Install poly-lock
* Tighten poly-lock until rockers gets snug
* Tighten additional ½ turn
* Lock the nut with allen wrench ¼ turn while hold poly-lock with wrench
* Repeat steps For each valve.
16. Intake Manifold
* Glue (RTV?) thin coat intake gasket to cylinder head
* Let it dry
* Put sealer around (RTV?) water jackets on previously installed intake gasket
* Put sealer (RTV) on front and rear of valley surface of block with extra dab in each corner (4)
17. Oil Pump Intermediate Shaft
* Install now?

If engine will set awhile (4-6 weeks) should I install the distributor later so the oil system can be primed before start-up?

18. Distributor
* Gear change needed? (bronze or nitrite steel?) Using Holley Dual Sync Distributor
* Put o-ring on distributor and oil it lightly
* Brush break-in (assembly ?) lube on cam gear
* Rotate crank to firing position – 20° BTDC
* Install distributor and tighten hold down bolt
* Install cap

Be nice, I'm a newbie at assembling. However, I'm not a novice at working on engines or transmissions for that matter. Rebuilt my first 4L60E a couple of years ago and it was successful.

gbledsoe3

I forgot to ask, at what stage do I measure for push rods? Right after the cylinder heads are installed?

gbledsoe3

Another thought, the Holley Dual Sync has a hardened steel gear (.500"). Using a Lunati roller cam. Do I need to change that gear?

-GaryB

oddball

Don't back off and re-torque the heads, especially if using normal blue head gaskets. You'll need to retorque the heads two or three times after several heat cycles.
I prefer to install the cam first so I can hold it on the way in without the crank in the way. Either method works.
I install the crank seal from the front until its flush, with a light coat of Permatex between the seal and the timing cover. Spring goes on the inside. Don't forget the splash guard ("slinger"). Just use oil on the balancer surface. More permatex between the crank snout and balancer.
Just use your break in oil for the lifters, maybe 15 mins? The soak is only to cut down on noise during initial startup.

I would install the distributor now just to keep the engine sealed. Pulling it and realigning it isn't a problem. Installing the water pump can happen any time. Sometimes I wait until the engine is in the car if I'm working with a short hoist or no load leveler. I don't like to use RTV on the intake gaskets intake ports because gas can break down some RTVs. I use black RTV on water ports (both sides) and end rails, and just spray copper on both sides of the intake ports for composite gaskets, but that's just me. Everyone has a different method for the intake, and everyone's is the best.

Measure the push rods any time after the heads are on and lifters are in. I'd do it with the intake off just because it's easier to see the lifters and how the pushrod is seated.

When setting lash, the poly lock doesn't really get "snug". Spin the pushrod in your fingers while slowly tightening the polylock. You'll feel the pushrod suddenly get grabbed and harder to turn. That's zero lash. Now do the tightening. You're a little on the tight side with your settings. I go just under half a turn, snug down the setscrew, then give the poly lock a good push to lock it down.

You may not be able to use the valley tray with the roller lifters - assuming it's the larger ones that usually cover the lifters. Just snug, maybe with blue locktite.



Ask Lunati about the gear. Some roller blanks are OK with steel gears.

cutlassefi

A few things;
Install the oil pump rod with the pump. The collar will hold it in place.
No "break in" oil needed for the lifters, nor do you need to soak them. Just oil them up real good with the same oil you're going to fire it with prior to installation. They'll pump up when you prime the engine before fire up.
Even though you have a roller cam I'd still use a high zinc oil. It enhances ring seal during break in.
Move the pushrod up and down, don't spin it to set lash. I'll bet you lunch I can still spin it even when it's tightened a half turn or more.

And if you have to retorque the heads 2 or 3 times after using a quality gasket and fasteners, then something is wrong. I install the heads and let them sit overnight. Then I back them off and retorque, never had an issue or the need to retorque after that.

Hope this helps.

gbledsoe3

What weight of oil would you recommend with my tolerances?

main bearing clearance.0030
rod bearing clearance.0030

cutlassefi

Valvoline 20W-50 VR-1.

shiftbyear

When you are torqueing bolts be sure to lubricate all contact surfaces not just the threads. Washers and underside of the bolt head also need lube for correct torque. Arp lube requires a different torque than the factory settings because the factory used oil for bolt lube. Arp website has good tips on torqueing. They also recommend chasing and cleaning threads prior to torqueing. Good luck.

gbledsoe3

I recall seeing that, thanks for the reminder.