Mirroring a build

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Old January 13th, 2009, 01:27 PM
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Mirroring a build

Does any one know any other builds that have been done i have plans on just coping a build that car craft did some years ago. looK! This too for the numbers they got and the parts they used it seems easiest way to get the numbers i wanted. This is my first engine build and i just wanted an opinion.

*Don't wanna bore it .60 over is there any other way to get around the same numbers with stock or .30 bore?
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Old January 13th, 2009, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_brown
Does any one know any other builds that have been done i have plans on just coping a build that car craft did some years ago. looK! This too for the numbers they got and the parts they used it seems easiest way to get the numbers i wanted. This is my first engine build and i just wanted an opinion.

*Don't wanna bore it .60 over is there any other way to get around the same numbers with stock or .30 bore?
Will make no real difference. You bore only as much as you need to save as much wall thickness as possible. I would not worry about it.
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Old January 13th, 2009, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gearheads78
Will make no real difference. You bore only as much as you need to save as much wall thickness as possible. I would not worry about it.
What he said. From the Car Craft article:

Originally Posted by Car Craft Magazine
The junkyard block had already been rebuilt once before, so it was bored 0.060-over,
If you're worried about matching their HP and torque numbers, 6 cu inches (the difference between an 0.030" and 0.060" overbore on an Olds 455) is negligible. Keep in mind that's only a 1.5% difference in displacement. Be more worried about workmanship and assembly details.
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Old January 14th, 2009, 03:24 AM
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I'm going to replace gaskets and seals on my motor. What do you think about the Ford rear main gasket ...

Originally Posted by Hot Rod Mag
Olds engines use a one-piece metal valley pan to seal the intake manifold to the heads; it doesnt work well with aluminum heads and intakes.
What do you guys recommend ..?
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Old January 14th, 2009, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mugzilla
I'm going to replace gaskets and seals on my motor. What do you think about the Ford rear main gasket ...
Smart thing to do.

What do you guys recommend ..?
I have never had a problem with the factory turkey tray intake gasket. I've used it on iron intakes, factory aluminum intakes, and aftermarket aluminum intakes and never had a leak. I have not had the chance to use it on aluminum heads yet, but I don't see why that would be an issue. I suspect that the problem people have is that they do not properly seat the four raised locating bosses in the bolt holes on the heads. This would cause the gasket to move or leak.
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Old January 14th, 2009, 04:31 PM
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I have used the Ford seal on my last two builds on 425's and have excellent results. Would recommend it to anyone. Bruce
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Old January 14th, 2009, 04:48 PM
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The rope seals also work well if they are installed properly. Don't try to install one using a Sneaky Pete though.
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Old January 14th, 2009, 05:16 PM
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I agree the 460 ford seal is the only way to go
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Old January 20th, 2009, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_brown
........ my first engine build and i just wanted an opinion ........
Originally Posted by Car Craft
…..... Westech turned the engine over to Dougan's Engine Rebuilding ….....
For anyone in the So CA area, they are more than competent.

Dougan's Engine Rebuilding
9072 Limonite Ave
RIVERSIDE, CA 92509 USA
(951) 681-1961

Originally Posted by Car Craft
…..... The block was surfaced to square-up the decks, then align-honed to true up the main-bearing bores for the stock crank, which was cross-drilled for improved oiling ….....
Not necessary at this power level, but can't hurt. Let your budget be your guide.

Originally Posted by Car Craft
…..... The desirable Olds nodular-iron crank has an "N" (shown) or "CN" cast on the No. 1 counterweight ........
"N" or "CN" doesn't mean much, if the ones with no markings were also cast from the same nodular iron.

Just use the one that came with the engine.

Originally Posted by Car Craft
…..... Westech feels an intake optimized for higher-rpm performance--such as a Performer RPM or even a Victor Jr.--is needed to fully unleash the potential of Edelbrock's Olds heads ….....
There are no RPM or Victor Jr level intakes for 400/425/455 Olds, but the Edelbrock Torker would be a good choice.

Like many other “sources” the information in those “magazines” should always be taken with a grain of salt.

Norm
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Old January 20th, 2009, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 88 coupe
There are no RPM or Victor Jr level intakes for 400/425/455 Olds, but the Edelbrock Torker would be a good choice.
Actually, Edelbrock now makes a Victor for both SBO and BBO:



Note that this is not the old Victor for Batten heads. These are new designs for OEM or Edelbrock heads. In particular, the SBO Victor is designed to mate to the larger ports of the Edelbrock heads (or BBO heads, presumably) when used on a small block.

Yes, it's not a Victor Jr, it's a Victor. From what I can tell, the difference is about 500 RPM shift in the design operating point (Victor Jr appears to be sized for 3000 - 7500 RPM, the full Victor for 3500 - 8000 RPM). In any case, the bottom end and heads need to be built to run at those RPM ranges if you plan to use the airflow capability of this intake. As with all engine components, all the parts need to be selected to match the intended usage and operating conditions.
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Old January 20th, 2009, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Actually, Edelbrock now makes a Victor for both ........
Correct. They have for several years.

In Edelbrock speak, Victor level is all out competition. Victor Jr, bridges the gap between it and the RPM (street/strip) level.

Originally Posted by joe_padavano
........ These are new designs for OEM or Edelbrock heads ........
I am only familiar with the BB version. Prior to its release, I attended a seminar, that was put on by the engineer that designed it. It was designed/optimized for use with Edelbrock heads, at RPM ranges that few "street" engines will ever see.

Edelbrock gambled that, if the "Victor level" racers were given the manifold they needed, their quicker/faster numbers would create a demand for a "Victor Jr" for the lower level competitors.

As far as I know, that demand has not yet been created.

Originally Posted by joe_padavano
........ From what I can tell, the difference is about 500 RPM shift in the design operating point (Victor Jr appears to be sized for 3000 - 7500 RPM, the full Victor for 3500 - 8000 RPM) ........
Where did you find specs/numbers for a Victor Jr?

Originally Posted by 88 coupe
........ There are no RPM or Victor Jr level intakes for 400/425/455 Olds ........
If a Victor Jr is available for this application, it is the only logical choice.

Norm
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Old January 20th, 2009, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 88 coupe
Where did you find specs/numbers for a Victor Jr?


If a Victor Jr is available for this application, it is the only logical choice.

Norm
I was looking at Edelbrock's descriptions for their BBC manifolds. It appears that their "Victor" brand manifolds are advertised as 3500-8000 RPM. The "Victor Jr" brand is advertised as 3000-7500 RPM. No, there is not a Victor Jr for Olds motors.
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