Won't go fast

Old April 27th, 2019, 03:25 PM
  #41  
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With the engine off, take the distributor cap off and turn the crank forward and back while watching the rotor. If the crank turns considerably before the rotor turns when you reverse direction. Chances are you need a timing chain set.

I'm confused by your timing numbers.
What is your timing set to at idle without the vacuum advance hooked up
What rpm does the timing stop advancing without vacuum advance hooked up and what is the timing at the point it stops advancing
What is the timing at idle when you hook the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum
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Old April 27th, 2019, 06:15 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Rvsmith5
How do I check that my secondaries are functioning? Should I just go back through the carb and see if I missed something on the rebuild?

Bob
Your carburetor rebuilding instructions should have a description on how to adjust the air valve wrap. There is a set screw (hex key) that holds the setting and a screw at the end of the shaft to adjust it. If my memory from 40 years ago is correct, there is a coil spring with a hook at the end visible under the top cover of the quadrajet. You loosen the set screw, loosen the screw at the end of the shaft until the hook moves away from a cross shaft. Then you tighten the screw a specific number of turns after the hook contacts the cross shaft. That setting is carb and engine specific, but perhaps it's 1 1/8 turns (don't trust this 40 year old memory, look it up). Once you've done that you tighten the set screw.
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Old April 28th, 2019, 07:22 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by sysmg
Your carburetor rebuilding instructions should have a description on how to adjust the air valve wrap. There is a set screw (hex key) that holds the setting and a screw at the end of the shaft to adjust it. If my memory from 40 years ago is correct, there is a coil spring with a hook at the end visible under the top cover of the quadrajet. You loosen the set screw, loosen the screw at the end of the shaft until the hook moves away from a cross shaft. Then you tighten the screw a specific number of turns after the hook contacts the cross shaft. That setting is carb and engine specific, but perhaps it's 1 1/8 turns (don't trust this 40 year old memory, look it up). Once you've done that you tighten the set screw.
FYI clarification.......
A. you need a 3/32" "L" shaped allen wrench and a small flat blade screw driver. You also hold the screw after you have "pre-loaded the spring-...until you have locked it with 3/32" allen wrench. If you don't, you lose the spring tension.
I used to:
1. loosen 3/32" allen screw
2. open the "Secondary Air Valve" (upper throttle blades) completely.
3. slowly turn the screw with slot (I think clockwise) until the secondary air valve blades are closed.
4. turn the slotted screw another 1/4 turn
5. turn the 3/32" screw to lock.
You can put a small scratch near the slot to mark the position for reference.

B. Address oldcutlass's questions
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Old November 9th, 2019, 05:18 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Rvsmith5
How do I check that my secondaries are functioning? Should I just go back through the carb and see if I missed something on the rebuild?

Bob
Ever get this sorted out?
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Old November 10th, 2019, 06:03 PM
  #45  
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I say check your fuel lines from the tank all the way up . Check all the rubber hose's .
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Old January 8th, 2020, 10:33 AM
  #46  
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