Smog pump delete
#1
Smog pump delete
Hey all, new user here.
I have a 66 Dynamic 88 that was manufactured in California. I live in Colorado so there isn’t any need for emissions. I’ve decided to remove the smog pump. Is there any tips or tricks I should be aware of?Or is there anything I should be concerned of because of the high altitude?
TYIA!!
I have a 66 Dynamic 88 that was manufactured in California. I live in Colorado so there isn’t any need for emissions. I’ve decided to remove the smog pump. Is there any tips or tricks I should be aware of?Or is there anything I should be concerned of because of the high altitude?
TYIA!!
#2
Hey all, new user here.
I have a 66 Dynamic 88 that was manufactured in California. I live in Colorado so there isn’t any need for emissions. I’ve decided to remove the smog pump. Is there any tips or tricks I should be aware of?Or is there anything I should be concerned of because of the high altitude?
TYIA!!
I have a 66 Dynamic 88 that was manufactured in California. I live in Colorado so there isn’t any need for emissions. I’ve decided to remove the smog pump. Is there any tips or tricks I should be aware of?Or is there anything I should be concerned of because of the high altitude?
TYIA!!
#3
First, don't trash those parts. A lot of restorers are looking for them.
Second, the biggest issue is plugging the holes in the exhaust ports. People force tapered pipe plugs in these holes, but those are inverted flare fittings with straight threads that seal on the flare. Use proper inverted flare plugs.
Second, the biggest issue is plugging the holes in the exhaust ports. People force tapered pipe plugs in these holes, but those are inverted flare fittings with straight threads that seal on the flare. Use proper inverted flare plugs.
#4
First, don't trash those parts. A lot of restorers are looking for them.
Second, the biggest issue is plugging the holes in the exhaust ports. People force tapered pipe plugs in these holes, but those are inverted flare fittings with straight threads that seal on the flare. Use proper inverted flare plugs.
Second, the biggest issue is plugging the holes in the exhaust ports. People force tapered pipe plugs in these holes, but those are inverted flare fittings with straight threads that seal on the flare. Use proper inverted flare plugs.
Gosh, I can't believe people would want those things even as part of a restoration. So much extra parts that can fail on you and good luck finding replacements! I guess if you don't plan on using the car and just want to look at it, it would make sense and I suppose there are people out there like that.
#5
The system on my 1970 Corvette still operates and hasn't required parts replacement. Once, when the belt broke, I noticed that the exhaust smelled just like a typical old car. When I replaced the belt, the exhaust became non-offensive again.
#6
Oh mine still works too (at least as far as I know). It's just I look at it all the time and am just waiting for it to grenade on me.
#8
#10
How about for drivability/reliability purposes? I understand that if the manifold bleed valve is malfunctioning it will cause the engine to backfire. Actually, it seems any failure in this system will cause backfiring. Also, the CSM says that if the relief valve isn't working correctly it can damage the exhaust system.
#13
First, don't trash those parts. A lot of restorers are looking for them.
Second, the biggest issue is plugging the holes in the exhaust ports. People force tapered pipe plugs in these holes, but those are inverted flare fittings with straight threads that seal on the flare. Use proper inverted flare plugs.
Second, the biggest issue is plugging the holes in the exhaust ports. People force tapered pipe plugs in these holes, but those are inverted flare fittings with straight threads that seal on the flare. Use proper inverted flare plugs.
#14
#15
That is the main reason why I am removing it. When the spark plugs need to be changed, or fuel pump serviced, it would make it so much easier if that whole system wasn’t there. I have also removed the AC compressor which will allow me to remove that big heavy bracket in the front as well.
#16
#17
That is the main reason why I am removing it. When the spark plugs need to be changed, or fuel pump serviced, it would make it so much easier if that whole system wasn’t there. I have also removed the AC compressor which will allow me to remove that big heavy bracket in the front as well.
#18
It’s annoying and extremely heavy haha! When I did the front end work on it, it made it a challenge to get the upper control arm off too!
#19
I have decided to put the air pipes back on and plug the check valves on both sides. That is probably going to be the easiest way to remove the AIR system because then you wouldn’t need to get plugs that go into the head. I’ve got it all put back together for the most part, tomorrow I’m going to tune er up and hopefully she’ll be driving again! I’ll post some before and after pics tomorrow.
P.s. last time I was driving, the petcock fell out of the radiator, thankfully I got her home right before she really started to overheat. I got that fixed and it was leaking coolant from the water neck, so I figured that would be a good
time to do address that. As im pulling the bolts out of the intake, it stripped the threads out of the intake where the water neck goes. So I had to rip off all of the accessories, pull the intake off, re tap the threads and put everything back together.
P.s. last time I was driving, the petcock fell out of the radiator, thankfully I got her home right before she really started to overheat. I got that fixed and it was leaking coolant from the water neck, so I figured that would be a good
time to do address that. As im pulling the bolts out of the intake, it stripped the threads out of the intake where the water neck goes. So I had to rip off all of the accessories, pull the intake off, re tap the threads and put everything back together.
#20
As an example, on the Toronado that doesn't have AIR, there's a dashpot on the throttle linkage that is connected to the manifold. When you let off on the gas, the throttle linkage hits the dashpot which opens and allows air into the manifold to prevent the rich mixture and backfiring. If you removed the AIR system, you'll have nothing to prevent the rich intake mixtures on deceleration.
Now, I have no idea how "severe" this problem is......it may cause you zero issues at all. I'm pretty interested in how this works out for you.
Last edited by ourkid2000; May 27th, 2024 at 03:45 AM.
#21
The AIR system has the double function of allowing the intake charge to be leaned out a touch when you let off on the gas which helps prevent backfires from an incoming fuel mixture that's too rich. That's the point of the intake bleed valve. I can't see these components on your car in the pictures but they should be back by the distributor.
As an example, on the Toronado that doesn't have AIR, there's a dashpot on the throttle linkage that is connected to the manifold. When you let off on the gas, the throttle linkage hits the dashpot which opens and allows air into the manifold to prevent the rich mixture and backfiring. If you removed the AIR system, you'll have nothing to prevent the rich intake mixtures on deceleration.
Now, I have no idea how "severe" this problem is......it may cause you zero issues at all. I'm pretty interested in how this works out for you.
As an example, on the Toronado that doesn't have AIR, there's a dashpot on the throttle linkage that is connected to the manifold. When you let off on the gas, the throttle linkage hits the dashpot which opens and allows air into the manifold to prevent the rich mixture and backfiring. If you removed the AIR system, you'll have nothing to prevent the rich intake mixtures on deceleration.
Now, I have no idea how "severe" this problem is......it may cause you zero issues at all. I'm pretty interested in how this works out for you.
Not the greatest photo but this is what I have before I removed the system. The air system is to the left with the big silver canister.
#22
Alright, I’ve got updates, the smog pump delete seems to be a success… ish… I have this valve that keeps blowing the vacuum cap off, maybe it’s not the right size? Anyways, with that capped off the car seems to run fine. I’m trying to get the carb dialed in because I’m sure it was never right to begin with.
#24
The AIR system has the double function of allowing the intake charge to be leaned out a touch when you let off on the gas which helps prevent backfires from an incoming fuel mixture that's too rich. That's the point of the intake bleed valve. I can't see these components on your car in the pictures but they should be back by the distributor.
As an example, on the Toronado that doesn't have AIR, there's a dashpot on the throttle linkage that is connected to the manifold. When you let off on the gas, the throttle linkage hits the dashpot which opens and allows air into the manifold to prevent the rich mixture and backfiring. If you removed the AIR system, you'll have nothing to prevent the rich intake mixtures on deceleration.
Now, I have no idea how "severe" this problem is......it may cause you zero issues at all. I'm pretty interested in how this works out for you.
As an example, on the Toronado that doesn't have AIR, there's a dashpot on the throttle linkage that is connected to the manifold. When you let off on the gas, the throttle linkage hits the dashpot which opens and allows air into the manifold to prevent the rich mixture and backfiring. If you removed the AIR system, you'll have nothing to prevent the rich intake mixtures on deceleration.
Now, I have no idea how "severe" this problem is......it may cause you zero issues at all. I'm pretty interested in how this works out for you.
#25
What’s interesting is prior to this job, during deacceleration, it would sputter out of the exhaust. Now, the sputter is gone, however, it’s gutless. You would pin it and it would throw you in the back seat. Now under heavy throttle, it’ll sputter and almost die. But it seems to drive it you baby the throttle.
#26
#27
#28
I have a 500 Cadillac transplanted into a '87 Cutlass and it had an AIR pump system. I couldn't get rid of it as it was an integral part of the belt and pulley arrangement. The pump seized, the belt broke and the engine overheated blowing a head gasket and cracking the heads. Make sure the bearings are good on yours. No they don't take much power. Eventually I learned there's a pulley set with different offsets available (not cheap) that allows eliminating the pump.
#29
I have a 500 Cadillac transplanted into a '87 Cutlass and it had an AIR pump system. I couldn't get rid of it as it was an integral part of the belt and pulley arrangement. The pump seized, the belt broke and the engine overheated blowing a head gasket and cracking the heads. Make sure the bearings are good on yours. No they don't take much power. Eventually I learned there's a pulley set with different offsets available (not cheap) that allows eliminating the pump.
#30
I had a spare set of heads but the ones that cracked were ported and had large BBC valves installed and it really hauled a**. I had to replace them with a stock set. Since then I've aquired another set of heads and I saved the valvetrain from the large valve pair. Eventualy I'llput it all back the way it was. Great engine BTW.
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