Andy

Replacing the clutch on my 1970 442, took the old pilot bearing out and I got a new one removed the snap ring and I thought that pilot bearing would have to have some kind of resistance to go in there and it basically taps right in and just float around in there with the snap ring installed is that correct? I thought they’d have to be more pressed in and snug. Let me know if it’s correct please before I start putting it back together.
section 6b-33 of my CSM says insert bearing put snap ring, I just want to be sure its ok to basically float in the crank with the snap ring on

edzolz

The bearing should be a snug fit so as to be tight enough that the outer race race cannot rotate. The inner bearing race is the only part that should turn.

Andy

Thats what I thought but the old one which wasn’t dried out or anything wasn’t like that andthe new one isn’t snug on the outer race, I had to lightly tap it into place then put the ring on but once its tapped into place it does not seem to stay snug against the race, not flopping around but surely not very snug.. the CSM says put in place and put snap ring on. It doesn’t address any firmness etc. I have done pontiacs before and they used a brass bushing pressed in usually by using a socket and hammer to drive them in

RetroRanger

In other applications ive seen a loctite product used to aid in a tighter fit! Off the top of my head i think it was green loctite.

edit not green loctite

one of these

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...compounds.html

specifically made for this type of application.

RetroRanger

1/2 credit. The 638 and 648 are green, i have used one of those two in the past w success.

Andy

I understand using loctite on a brass bushing, but the bearing has grease filled ball bearings.. be tricky getting outer race and crank clean enough to use locktite without washing out the grease in the ball bearings. Appreciate you trying to help.. I need to rephrase the question.
Who on the forum has installed the ball bearing pilot bushing with snap ring, and how did it fit when you did this? Trying to see if what I am encountering is normal operation? I have the correct bearing, just had to tap it into the crank, once it cleared the snap ring groove it becomes in my opinion not tight against the outside race. Is that correct? As well if the snout of the trans is in the pilot bearing, snap ringed in place then it stands to reason the shaft will stay stable in the crank..

edzolz

On the earlier cranks without the ring, the bearing was to be inserted in the cavity and staked around the perimeter to keep it in place. There was not a press fit but a snug fit until it was staked. After staking it would not rotate.

Andy

thanks, thats probably the way this one is supposed to be, i believe its going to work just fine, the old one was not snug but not sloppy either. I guess if the job with the pilot bearing is to keep the transmission share from wobbling around even if it’s not snub It can’t go anywhere in there so will have to assume it’s the way it was designed I can’t seem to get an answer from anybody that actually put one in the later model 1970 and all with the clip

2blu442

Every one I've had has been tight. Both with the snap ring and staked. If your sure you have the right bearing your options are limited. Either you swap out a different crankshaft or go with one of the suggestions above. Or I guess you could try the bushing rather than bearing to see if it would fit tight. I'd go with staking it as the simplest fix.

Sugar Bear

I'd be comfortable with Loctite Stud & Bearing Mount as suggested and with staking it in place. To be clear I'd use Loctite and stake it, not only one or the other.

Good luck!!!

BillK

Personally I think you are overthinking it. The old one was in there for how many years with no loctite or anything else other than the snap ring holing it in place. Out the new one back in the same way and keep driving. If you think about it the only time the pilot bearing does anything is when you have the clutch disengaged which is a minuscule amount of time compared with the overall time the engine runs. Simply not an issue.

Andy

Thanks..I am with you, I definitely tend to overthink. Appreciate it.

RetroRanger

Andy

the outer perimeter of the bearing, and the inner bore of the crank are where the 638 or 648 would applied that area shouldnt be grease filled, this will stop the bearing race from rotating in the crank bore.

i think sugar bears solution would work best.

VC455

This raises the possibility that a previous bearing's outer race had rotated and wore the installed-bearing area. Check the crank ID for signs of movement. If you find no circumferential marks, do as Bill suggests.