Main bearing question
#1
Main bearing question
Hello all
I ordered a set of sealed power 108m main bearing set . I know things change and I’ve looked and tried to find the answer so sorry if this is a duplicate question
The number 5 main bearing has 2 grooves and the one main oil hole and the second groove with the three smaller holes
My new set only has the one large groove and no small groove and no secondary holes drilled
Is this normal in these better sets of bearing vs the standard clevite bearing sets that match the originals
Thanks for any info
I ordered a set of sealed power 108m main bearing set . I know things change and I’ve looked and tried to find the answer so sorry if this is a duplicate question
The number 5 main bearing has 2 grooves and the one main oil hole and the second groove with the three smaller holes
My new set only has the one large groove and no small groove and no secondary holes drilled
Is this normal in these better sets of bearing vs the standard clevite bearing sets that match the originals
Thanks for any info
#2
That rear-most groove in the old bearings is for drainback. There's a channel in the cap and block to catch oil before it gets to the rear main seal.
The new bearing is a 3/4 groove instead of a full groove. The 3/4 groove is generally better - more bearing area in the cap to support the crank where it's needed.
The full groove is the common replacement bearing. I suspect that's because having the groove all the way around is more forgiving for the DIY engine builder. Check your clearances, clean clean clean again, and you don't need it.
So, no need for it. Especially if you're running a modern lip seal instead of the rope seal.
The new bearing is a 3/4 groove instead of a full groove. The 3/4 groove is generally better - more bearing area in the cap to support the crank where it's needed.
The full groove is the common replacement bearing. I suspect that's because having the groove all the way around is more forgiving for the DIY engine builder. Check your clearances, clean clean clean again, and you don't need it.
So, no need for it. Especially if you're running a modern lip seal instead of the rope seal.
#3
The 108M is actually a race bearing but I use them in everything, no issues.
Clevite told me theirs is a full groove only because the OEM ones came like that. I’m trying to get them to do a 1/2-3/4 grooved bearing for small blocks, but it’s been an uphill battle.
Clevite told me theirs is a full groove only because the OEM ones came like that. I’m trying to get them to do a 1/2-3/4 grooved bearing for small blocks, but it’s been an uphill battle.
#4
That rear-most groove in the old bearings is for drainback. There's a channel in the cap and block to catch oil before it gets to the rear main seal.
The new bearing is a 3/4 groove instead of a full groove. The 3/4 groove is generally better - more bearing area in the cap to support the crank where it's needed.
The full groove is the common replacement bearing. I suspect that's because having the groove all the way around is more forgiving for the DIY engine builder. Check your clearances, clean clean clean again, and you don't need it.
So, no need for it. Especially if you're running a modern lip seal instead of the rope seal.
The new bearing is a 3/4 groove instead of a full groove. The 3/4 groove is generally better - more bearing area in the cap to support the crank where it's needed.
The full groove is the common replacement bearing. I suspect that's because having the groove all the way around is more forgiving for the DIY engine builder. Check your clearances, clean clean clean again, and you don't need it.
So, no need for it. Especially if you're running a modern lip seal instead of the rope seal.
as for the cleaning the motor has been machined and hot tanked twice and I still have 5 hours of cleaning time after it came back . Amazing how much they miss . Everything else is new and standard but still have to do all my clearance checks to make sure it’s good.
#5
Good luck on the small block bearing quest , the little people that make great suggestions are rarely heard by companies that think they know the best.
#6
Thank you , I was reading what there made of and seem to be a lot better quality. I did get King bearings for the cam and got the Clevite H series bearings for the rods mainly do cause the H beam rods use the narrowed bearings and they recommended those.
Good luck on the small block bearing quest , the little people that make great suggestions are rarely heard by companies that think they know the best.
Good luck on the small block bearing quest , the little people that make great suggestions are rarely heard by companies that think they know the best.
#7
I don’t think the standard bearings would work
#8
thank you sir , from what I was reading they are a lot better bearings and yes using a 2 piece seal .
as for the cleaning the motor has been machined and hot tanked twice and I still have 5 hours of cleaning time after it came back . Amazing how much they miss . Everything else is new and standard but still have to do all my clearance checks to make sure it’s good.
as for the cleaning the motor has been machined and hot tanked twice and I still have 5 hours of cleaning time after it came back . Amazing how much they miss . Everything else is new and standard but still have to do all my clearance checks to make sure it’s good.
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