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Installed. Having problems. Can not get through to Holley Tech Support.
does anyone else here with a 455 and Sniper quadrajet (or even a regular Sniper) have a Global File and Setting file they can send me?
I have a MSD Atomic that I had no problems with. Easy peesey.
This Sniper is hard to start and keep running. I think timing is off too. I have of course verified I am synced. I think having a file someone already tuned will help. Then it can learn from there.
I pulled the fuel relay and shot the crank with timing light To verify 15 degrees. My timing tab only Goes to 12 and directions say to use 15. So I used a dial timing gun and set it to 15 and made the line on balancer match to 0 on the tab. Is that right way to use a dial? I have only ever used a regular gun. If that is right then Yes, i verified.
i also pulled Driver valve cover and made sure the Timing mark was the rotation just immediately after the first rocker in front of engine closed just to be sure I was on TBC and not 180
Dont do it that way. Pull no 1 plug, crank till it pushes your finger out. Now you have the right cyl at or near tdc.
next check to see whwre the rotor is. It should be pointing at no 1 tower and reasonably in the middle.
Dont do it that way. Pull no 1 plug, crank till it pushes your finger out. Now you have the right cyl at or near tdc.
next check to see whwre the rotor is. It should be pointing at no 1 tower and reasonably in the middle.
that is how I did it before I dropped the Distributor in. And the Zero lined up with Time line on Balancer.
When i took valve cover off a while ago to checked to see the Valve on 1 close and stopped balancer on zero the rotor was still pointed at #1 spark plug wire on distributor when i popped off cap
it does start. Just not easily. And i can get it up to 2000 rpm and hold it there but soon as I let off gas it wont idle. I cant move on with setting IAC until it will idle.
Actually the idle is set with the IAC to some degree. If it won’t idle then open the throttle screw then reset tps, which I believe means you’ll need to cycle the key. Do that till it idles on its own then go from there. Remember it won’t learn till it reaches 160*.
Actually the idle is set with the IAC to some degree. If it won’t idle then open the throttle screw then reset tps, which I believe means you’ll need to cycle the key. Do that till it idles on its own then go from there. Remember it won’t learn till it reaches 160*.
that is true. I screwed that screw in as far as it would go trying to get idle. It only goes in so far. I backed it out and in .5 and then tried 1 full turn. (As directions say)
i am also finding that I cant open my Log Files!!! i save them to the SD card and stick in a PC and try to open in the Holley EFI program (latest version) and it says the files are not readable! I have been in IT for 20 years. I know computers. And how to open files. Something is wrong with this thing.
this process is making my MSD Atomic look so much better.
Overall the Sniper is a better unit imo.
Youre sure you have no vacuum leaks, wires crossed, or you’re not tapped into any other sensor other than to feed the Sniper unit?
did you set up the distributor with the clear locating cap and balancer set to 0? when i installed mine this was dead on, when verifying ensure idle spark is disabled.
Is it possible your balancer slipped and is no longer accurate? verify TDC
have you verified fuel pressure at the inlet? also verify it matches the setting on the handheld
make sure your wiring, especially the spark plug wires are away from the sniper wiring also other things that can cause emf noise. I had allot of issues due to a steel braided hose that crossed my spark plug wires and sniper wiring, it transferred power thru the steel braid from the spark plug wire to the iac wiring, causing the iac motor to open by itself while the ecu thinks its closed.
when you get it running, plug the iac hole with your finger and set the idle, when its how you want it and no more problems, at operating temperature, set the idle screw until the iac is no more then 10
verify there are no vacuum leaks, or exhaust leaks. the gmc motorhome intake is notorious for cracking.
I finally got it started properly and idle. I had a few problems...
1. I have a Bow Tie Overdrive TV made EZ plate to run my th2004r. The design of the sniper made it hard to put a socket on and tighten. I swapped in some nuts with allen sockets. That got it much tighter.
2. One of my Earls Efi hose clamps attached to a AN fitting needed a different fitting. There was a fitting in the kit that fit better.
3. I changed the Cranking timing to 12 and the static Timing to 12 AND disabled timing spark control For good measure and disconnected the Fuel relay and had my dad Crank while I put a timing light on the balancer. Instead of using the dial on the Timing light to dial to 15 and try and get balanced to Zero, I was able to leave the timing dial on 0 and found 12 degrees on the timing tab and balancer! It was Off about 10 degrees. Once I locked distributor down and reenabled timing spark control I was able to start!!
NOW I have a new problem...
it would NOT turn off!!!!
I called Holley and they said to modify the wiring. In the directions it showed the Two Pink Wires and Red trigger 12V key On to same keyed ignition source. he said to put JUST the Sniper on the IGN prong on the fuse panel and find a separate 12v keyed/cranking source for rest of the stuff. Well, easy to say but not so easy to do. There is only the one 12 source male connector on the fuse Panel called IGN. The other two are BATT (always on) and a unlabeled on at top that does not have voltage while cranking. So I have the sniper getting its own devoted 12v but now need to find a place for the Distributor Pink and the 12 V Hyperspark.
any ideas on how to wire those to a 12 keyed/cranking source?
I also read other people have had same problem and needed a Diode on their alternator. I have the stock wire harness for internally regulated Alternator. I have a NEW autozone alternator (same one I took off my 1980 Cutlass). I found a ready made harness from
American Autowire that will make it so I wont need to cut into my NEW MandH OeM wire harness.
I finally got it started properly and idle. I had a few problems...
1. I have a Bow Tie Overdrive TV made EZ plate to run my th2004r. The design of the sniper made it hard to put a socket on and tighten. I swapped in some nuts with allen sockets. That got it much tighter.
2. One of my Earls Efi hose clamps attached to a AN fitting needed a different fitting. There was a fitting in the kit that fit better.
3. I changed the Cranking timing to 12 and the static Timing to 12 AND disabled timing spark control For good measure and disconnected the Fuel relay and had my dad Crank while I put a timing light on the balancer. Instead of using the dial on the Timing light to dial to 15 and try and get balanced to Zero, I was able to leave the timing dial on 0 and found 12 degrees on the timing tab and balancer! It was Off about 10 degrees. Once I locked distributor down and reenabled timing spark control I was able to start!!
NOW I have a new problem...
it would NOT turn off!!!!
I called Holley and they said to modify the wiring. In the directions it showed the Two Pink Wires and Red trigger 12V key On to same keyed ignition source. he said to put JUST the Sniper on the IGN prong on the fuse panel and find a separate 12v keyed/cranking source for rest of the stuff. Well, easy to say but not so easy to do. There is only the one 12 source male connector on the fuse Panel called IGN. The other two are BATT (always on) and a unlabeled on at top that does not have voltage while cranking. So I have the sniper getting its own devoted 12v but now need to find a place for the Distributor Pink and the 12 V Hyperspark.
any ideas on how to wire those to a 12 keyed/cranking source?
I also read other people have had same problem and needed a Diode on their alternator. I have the stock wire harness for internally regulated Alternator. I have a NEW autozone alternator (same one I took off my 1980 Cutlass). I found a ready made harness from
American Autowire that will make it so I wont need to cut into my NEW MandH OeM wire harness.
what vehicle is this?
Have you tested voltage at your source with a DMM? Key on, key off, cranking, acc.
this is where I got my 12v signal
that is going to the trigger wires on the sniper, Hyperspark cd box, and the Distributor. You could also put a switch in line with this, i have one as a security measure.
what vehicle is this?
Have you tested voltage at your source with a DMM? Key on, key off, cranking, acc.
this is where I got my 12v signal
that is going to the trigger wires on the sniper, Hyperspark cd box, and the Distributor. You could also put a switch in line with this, i have one as a security measure.
yes. There are three male Prongs. The IGN, the BATT and the unlabeled one at top.
I was using that same spot. Are you using a diode on your alternator? That is my next thing to try. If yours worked with all three on the same IGN then maybe it is the backfeed from alternator.
yes. There are three male Prongs. The IGN, the BATT and the unlabeled one at top.
I was using that same spot. Are you using a diode on your alternator? That is my next thing to try. If yours worked with all three on the same IGN then maybe it is the backfeed from alternator.
no i am using a powermaster 140a 1 wire alternator, I have the cable going directly to the battery + terminal, and only the gen light hooked up to the other terminal.
you can try it with no belt to verify if that's your problem.
I would be looking at your ignition switch, make sure its clean 0v when ignition off and b+ when on.
also make sure that wire is not crossing or is too close to anything like spark plug wires, coils, charging wires, radio. All those things could induce power and keep it running.
If you need to have a separate power source for each power lead, you might consider using a relay for them. See the link below, it is for relays with fuses. I'm thinking of getting them myself just in case....
Use power from the horn relay and use the ign post from your fuse block to activate the relays, That way they all turn on and off with the key, but have different feed source for each device.
You probably need a diode on the alternator excite wire. You can just unplug the connector on the alternator. If it stops with the key off, then it's definitely the excite.
That wire doesn't flow enough current to feed a coil, which is why the stock wiring was fine. But anything newer tends to use the IGN circuit just as a trigger and pulls current from a BATT feed. The excite circuit can easily keep those going.
You probably need a diode on the alternator excite wire. You can just unplug the connector on the alternator. If it stops with the key off, then it's definitely the excite.
That wire doesn't flow enough current to feed a coil, which is why the stock wiring was fine. But anything newer tends to use the IGN circuit just as a trigger and pulls current from a BATT feed. The excite circuit can easily keep those going.
i tried as everyone suggested. I took the Alternator belt off and with no current coming off it i was able to start and stop three times
i had to tune the sniper down to 8 degrees BTC to crank and idle reliable. That seems normal as the emissions system sticker says 8 for Premium and 10 for Super Premium. Being I have California nasty 87 octane Ethanol gas in there 8 seems to make it happier.
once the Alternator Diode harness arrives I will try to get it to idle again and double check idle Sync timing. I may also replace all the spark plugs. All the cranking and flooding I was doing may also have fouled the plugs.
Forget the sticker on the car, use whatever timing number gives you the best idle vacuum. In other words the lowest KPA. Make sure your idle spark is 0’d.
Forget the sticker on the car, use whatever timing number gives you the best idle vacuum. In other words the lowest KPA. Make sure your idle spark is 0’d.
turn off idle spark in settings? Is that the same as turing on static timing?
this has been so much harder than setting up my MSD with timing control. It ran perfect. I have had it in and out three times and always works. Set balancer to 15 degrees. Drop in distributor, start. , phase it. Done.
On Holley so if timing is turned off totally and I start up and move the distributor around dont I mess up the phasing I did back when I put the distributor in and put the clear plastic cap on?
if I move the distributor with timing turned off and try and find the best idle then what? Wont it no longer be synced with the timing control? i thought that when I disconnected the fuel relay and got the cranking setting and balancer synced at 12 degrees that was it. Now if I mess with the distributor and undo that to make it idle wont the sync be gone and my motor wont run right or settings match the actual? Let alone the phasing is now off? It is not like the MSD rotor where I shoot a light at the hole I made in cap and move rotor independently of the distributor.
You’re over thinking it.
Lock your timing at whatever works, 10, 12, 14, whatever and make sure your idle spark compensation table is set to 0. Then check it with a light. Make sure it’s within a degree or so. If not then turn the dist to match.
THEN set your idle timing to whatever gives you the best vacuum or lowest KPA. Your timing grid should like what a regular timing curve looks like as a start.
Do this first then go from there.
You’re over thinking it.
Lock your timing at whatever works, 10, 12, 14, whatever and make sure your idle spark compensation table is set to 0. Then check it with a light. Make sure it’s within a degree or so. If not then turn the dist to match.
THEN set your idle timing to whatever gives you the best vacuum or lowest KPA. Your timing grid should like what a regular timing curve looks like as a start.
Do this first then go from there.
I work best with specific process in steps. Like I said I have experience with the Atomic and zero problems.
So there is nothing called “idle spark compensation” in settings. What does that mean. i also do not see that in directions that came with the unit.
are you saying to disable/ enable Idle Spark? There is a setting For that.
then do I set crank and idle to something? I cant do 15 like directions Say because olds Tabs dont go past 12. Right now both are on 8 because it liked starting there better than 15. Do I leave them there at 8 with Idle Spark disabled and sync again from there?
then after I am synced at 8 then reenable Idle Spark and change Idle timing in the software handheld to find best vacuum?
i could have sworn this is what I accomplished when i synced already the two previous methods and way the Holley tech said. They make it look so much easier on the videos. Find top dead center, drop it in. Phase it, put plugs on, turn it on, sync timing, done. Yah well...its not that easy!
turn off idle spark in settings? Is that the same as turing on static timing?
this has been so much harder than setting up my MSD with timing control. It ran perfect. I have had it in and out three times and always works. Set balancer to 15 degrees. Drop in distributor, start. , phase it. Done.
On Holley so if timing is turned off totally and I start up and move the distributor around dont I mess up the phasing I did back when I put the distributor in and put the clear plastic cap on?
if I move the distributor with timing turned off and try and find the best idle then what? Wont it no longer be synced with the timing control? i thought that when I disconnected the fuel relay and got the cranking setting and balancer synced at 12 degrees that was it. Now if I mess with the distributor and undo that to make it idle wont the sync be gone and my motor wont run right or settings match the actual? Let alone the phasing is now off? It is not like the MSD rotor where I shoot a light at the hole I made in cap and move rotor independently of the distributor.
-set the balancer at 0* tdc on cylinder #1 (also ensure balancer is accurate)
-drop the new distributor in, turn it to the correct position using the clear cap then tighten it down. Put the real cap on.
-set your timings on the touch screen, (tuning-basic-spark) For example cranking 8* idle 12* wot 32* cruise 40* (no not use my settings)
-start it up, if running ok disable idle spark (tuning-advanced-adv.idle) and set static timing (tuning-system-static timing) to a # you can read with your timing light, for example 15*.
-rev the engine to 2000 rpms, ensure the timing on the multi gauge screen are what you set, check the timing at 2000 rpms with a timing light, turn the distributor to get it accurate, it should already be close from the clear cap. Lock it down tight, do not touch the distributor anymore, all your timing adjustments are only done on the screen. (Tuning-basic-spark)
once you have it accurate, re-enable idle spark if you want it (this adjusts timing to smooth idle)
from there play with the timing settings and air fuel ratio to find what works best for you and try and get the map,kpa as low as possible (lower # = higher vacuum) without detonation.
once your happy with it adjust the idle screw so the iac position is under 10.
then just drive it, it will self learn.
-set the balancer at 0* tdc on cylinder #1 (also ensure balancer is accurate)
-drop the new distributor in, turn it to the correct position using the clear cap then tighten it down. Put the real cap on.
-set your timings on the touch screen, (tuning-basic-spark) For example cranking 8* idle 12* wot 32* cruise 40* (no not use my settings)
-start it up, if running ok disable idle spark (tuning-advanced-adv.idle) and set static timing (tuning-system-static timing) to a # you can read with your timing light, for example 15*.
-rev the engine to 2000 rpms, ensure the timing on the multi gauge screen are what you set, check the timing at 2000 rpms with a timing light, turn the distributor to get it accurate, it should already be close from the clear cap. Lock it down tight, do not touch the distributor anymore, all your timing adjustments are only done on the screen. (Tuning-basic-spark)
once you have it accurate, re-enable idle spark if you want it (this adjusts timing to smooth idle)
from there play with the timing settings and air fuel ratio to find what works best for you and try and get the map,kpa as low as possible (lower # = higher vacuum) without detonation.
once your happy with it adjust the idle screw so the iac position is under 10.
then just drive it, it will self learn.
thanks that seems easy to follow and better written then the Quick Start directions!
Where the balancer was at 0 the plastic cap was already phased correct and the black mark I had for tower 1 was already where it was supposed to be This tells me i did the previous steps right first time
it wont advance the Timing anymore! Its is locked at 12. I cleared the Static Timing. I rev up to 2000 and it stops according to both Handheld AND the balancer at 2000 the timing on balancer is still at 12.
i tried running Wizard again and it changed to 15. But same thing, the timing all the way to 2000 rpm is stopping at 15!
i have WOT set to 32!
where is this not advancing timing coming from? The car is getting HOT very fast. I stopped at 206 degrees. It is retarded too much and making lota of heat.
it wont advance the Timing anymore! Its is locked at 12. I cleared the Static Timing. I rev up to 2000 and it stops according to both Handheld AND the balancer at 2000 the timing on balancer is still at 12.
i tried running Wizard again and it changed to 15. But same thing, the timing all the way to 2000 rpm is stopping at 15!
i have WOT set to 32!
where is this not advancing timing coming from? The car is getting HOT very fast. I stopped at 206 degrees. It is retarded too much and making lota of heat.
what are all your timing settings? Air fuel ratio settings? are they different on the multi gauge screen when above 160f?
Found the problem. The Wizard selected a base timing that had 12 degrees ALL the way to 2250 RPM and then 15 and finally 38. 12 degrees at 2250 and 15 at 3000 seems Retarded. ThAt is why it got so bot so quickly. After being on hold with Holley for over a hour I got through to a tech who had me email my config file. He sent it back with these changes. The Timing curve is very steep now. 12 till off idle 23 at 1400 and 34 at 1600. Not sure that is ideal for the 442 Cam profile?
Don’t use those settings!! You have way too much timing too early at high load (high KPA Numbers). Let me see if I have a table to send you or better yet just email me yours. I’ll fix it.
in addition your initial settings of 36 at cruise and 38 at WOT are backwards. Your WOT air/fuel is a bit on the lean side as well. fastone01@hotmail.com
Last edited by cutlassefi; August 10th, 2020 at 09:37 PM.
Don’t use those settings!! You have way too much timing too early at high load (high KPA Numbers). Let me see if I have a table to send you or better yet just email me yours. I’ll fix it.
in addition your initial settings of 36 at cruise and 38 at WOT are backwards. Your WOT air/fuel is a bit on the lean side as well. fastone01@hotmail.com
thanks. I am off to bed and will email them now. I didnt load the file they sent back yet. I wonder why the config file the Sniper picked was 12 all the way to 2250
Uploaded the new config file and before I went to start checked the spark settings. This is what its says.
if I rerun the Wizard it puts them back with base settings which I am guessing will put me back at 12 degrees all the way to 2250 rpm
i reuploaded the setting and cycled key and does same thing.
why is this thing such a pain?
For all. In order to change the settings in the software in the way they really need to be changed, you have to cycle from “simple” in the graphs to 2D. When you do that it renders the handheld useless. If you go back and switch it back to “simple”, the handheld will come back but it should save the settings.
Revised cal sent.
Last edited by cutlassefi; August 11th, 2020 at 09:29 AM.
That worked. Weird that the settings from the desktop do not show on the handheld. What if someone wanted to edit them while out driving?
ANyhow, the new settings file worked. I can rev the motor up to 2000 and higher and the Timing increased along with the RPM. this is what I was expecting. NOW it will be safe to drive and learn.
Meanwhile. as I was working and reving my Power steering belt started smoking!! My power steering pump locked up! UHG!! The pump was OLD. Original. And Unknown state of being. IT was only thing original to the engine compartment. ANother project!
That worked. Weird that the settings from the desktop do not show on the handheld. What if someone wanted to edit them while out driving?
That’s because you can do way more in the software than with the handheld. If want to edit the big tables then run a datalog or drive with your laptop connected. Then change them when you boot up directly.
ANyhow, the new settings file worked. I can rev the motor up to 2000 and higher and the Timing increased along with the RPM. this is what I was expecting. NOW it will be safe to drive and learn. You’re welcome😉
Meanwhile. as I was working and revving my Power steering belt started smoking!! My power steering pump locked up! UHG!! The pump was OLD. Original. And Unknown state of being. IT was only thing original to the engine compartment. Another project!
Glad you got it sorted out.
Last edited by cutlassefi; August 11th, 2020 at 12:40 PM.
Thanks everyone. Till next time! I am glad I did it all right and did not find any mistakes. Seems like most my issues where the timing that the handheld chose right off the bat.
1. It did not like 15 degrees to start up and crank
2. It did not like 12 degrees all the way up to 2250 rpm
3. The not turning off problem was backfeed from the Alternator.
Last edited by CuttyShark; August 11th, 2020 at 05:20 PM.
I was checking my sniper and it doesn't seem to change timing from idle until about 2000 rpms as well, however my 455 seems to tolerate high idle timing, i can keep increasing idle timing and it just makes more vacuum and I'm able to close the throttle blades even more.
could this be a symtom of my low compression/over cammed set up?
before I had the sniper I had a 850dp 4781 carb, with a 20* initial 36* total + 10* vacuum adv, it ran ok but sniper is much better, i had 7" of vacuum at idle, now almost 12".
August 5th, 2020, 04:47 PM
