ForestMist66

I have a 66 Toronado that has a wobble in the harmonic balancer, so it has to be rebuilt/replaced. I would like to do the work, some have told me that you can use an impact wrench to remove the original bolt, then most likely use a puller to remove the balancer and a installer to put back on, so recommendations from the experts, who has used a rebuilder, which one, experience? Any pullers better than others? Impact wrench brand name? Installation how far can you put on the damper without an installer tool? Recommendations? Can the final torque be applied with an impact wrench set to estimated torque? Does anyone out there know of a source of original dampers? Or nos parts? Help. Bob.

2blu442

An NOS piece would be really unusual to find, although there was one recently listed in another post. Likely its gone by now.

There are a number of rebuilders around, one that lists on ebay all the time is in Northern California. I'm attaching a link to his sales page. He does have some errors in the listing... such as the 425 being 67 and up. It should say 1965-67 but as long as you have your old one rebuilt or make sure the replacement matches yours you should be fine.

http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant...egory_Code=OLD

Removing it, yes be sure and use a puller that attaches to the holes made for the pully mount. If you use something that pulls from the out side ring you'll rip that off leaving the center on the crankshaft. I don't think you need a special tool to re-install. I've always gently tapped it on then torqued down the big nut. Oh yeah, impact wrench is the best way to go in removing it. I've had some come off easily then others where I soaked it in kroil or PB Blaster then rattled the torque wrench for a long time! Let us know if you have any more questions. John

ForestMist66

Thanks for the reply, I have heard of the Damper Doctor, I did call and they do not have any cores and would need my damper to rebuild.Question does the final torque on the bolt allow you to do this without turning over the engine? I was looking at a puller that uses the hub design you are talking about. I am sure by the looks of mine that getting the bolt out might be difficult. The washer is rusted on the edges and shows some flaking, I do have a new washer nos for it. I am slightly wary of just tapping it back on as it needs a puller to be removed, they must be a slip on fit? With the bolt holding the item on. I can only imagine spraying the pb blaster or other rust solvent just would drool off the front due my rust issue. I guess impact wrenching like you describe would sort of loosen the bolt. Have had any bolts just break off due to corrosion? With the use of the impact wrench? And have you knowledge of application of the dampers my parts book shows that 400 425 dampers are unique, not same as 330 dampers as some say are the same? Bob.

2blu442

Hi Bob
It slides onto the crankshaft and is kept from spinning with a key. It also goes into the seal that's pressed into the timing cover. The last one I did I used a chunk of wood with a hammer and tapped it onto the crankshaft. Then torqued down the big bolt. This is a really big bolt and I don't think that you'll break it. I had one out of the car and standing on the back of the block, so I could fill the area around the washer and let it soak. But if yours is still in the car you may need to soak it down a few times to get enough wicking in past the washer. Since yours is in the car and assembled, you may be able to get enough torque with the transmission in park. I've always blocked the flexplate from turning with the engine on a stand. If you have a second person they may be able to hold the flexplate with the tool made for rotating the engine with the flexplate.

I'm not an expert, but would go with a visual check. I'm sure 400 and 425 are the same, I think the 330 is too, at least the years that used a balancer. I've had several 1965 engines that didn't have one. But I'm pretty sure I've pulled them from 1966-67 330's and that they matched the ones used on big blocks. You might create a new thread asking that question to see if you can get confirmation that it will or will not interchange.

John

ForestMist66

Hello, thanks for the reply. As to removing the original bolt, I assume it would come off without preventing the flexplate to turn, but then when the torque wrench is applied, I would have to jamb the flexplate to keep the engine from turning over? And would I still need a puller and installer to remove the damper and reinstall it, and how would I know it is on far enough for pulley alignment? I could measure off the front of the front cover to the back of the pulley and get the correct depth? Or does it just bottom out? And would be right? I think also there is a guy that rebuilds damper's in your area, Dale Manufacturing, possible Oregon, but maybe Washington. Getting back to the damper I have the manual and they show puller's being used along with installer's.And everything is so easy being out of the car, I have checked on impact wrench's that are compact enough to fit between the radiator and the bolt head, that I will have to verify with measurement of the area where the wrench will be.Bob.

2blu442

Hi Bob
It's a big bolt and washer. Yes it will bottom out. Here's one to give you an idea what it looks like off the engine. I don't think you need a tool to install it, but others here can chime in and share their experiences. John

PA141312.jpg

ForestMist66

Great picture, thanks, that appears to be in great condition.Guess I will just have to get the jitters out and take it off. Bob.

2blu442

Go for it Bob! If you have any problems along the way post them here and we'll help you with the project!


John

ForestMist66

Thanks for the help and encouragement, as I slowly progress I will post my experience with this endeavor. Bob.

joe_padavano

While an impact wrench will remove the balancer bolt, you still need to hold the crank from turning to properly torque it upon reinstallation. I built a simple tool by welding a bar to an old crank pulley. remove the original pulley, bolt on the tool, torque away. Also, do NOT hammer on the balancer to install it. You are hammering on the end of the crank, which means you are hammering on the thrust bearing (main #3). Use the correct balancer installation tool. Finally, in the MIGHTASWELLS, since pulling the balancer is the hardest part of replacing the timing chain, if you engine has over 80,000 miles on this chain and gear set, replace it now.

ForestMist66

Thanks for the tip on making a tool for holding the crankshaft. Just have to find a pulley for the purpose. Good idea on the timing gear and chain, as mine has well past the 80,000 mark, I have owned this car for 40 + years and have never checked the timing chain gear set, do you have a brand name recommendation for replacement? Were the original plastic tipped gears or steel? I was told the engine was rebuilt back then, but I have put on a great number of miles since then.The engine starts and runs great, I assume when the thing decides to jump timing via chain and gears it will do it with no warning. This is looking like a big project now, send me your thoughts on the gear sets and chain. Bob.

Jaybird

I would recommend a Cloyes Timing Gear set. It's a double roller and works for me. You can pick this set up at your favorite local parts place.

ForestMist66

Thanks for the recommendation of manufacturer, that name sounds familiar, do you have an auto parts supplier that has this part, and is this chain already pretensioned? Bob.

MDchanic

A good, American, "brand-name" timing set, such as Cloyes, should be fine for a regular motor.

Avoid "bargain" offshore units, as some have been documented to be ridiculously out of time, not to mention questions of durability.

You can get one of these timing sets at pretty much any auto parts store or mail-order supplier.

There is no tensioner on traditional American V8 timing chains.

- Eric

joe_padavano

I'll caution against a double roller for a street-driven Toro. You don't really need it and more importantly, the double roller chains are wider and can cause the fuel pump arm to rub on them. Personally I'd just replace it with a stock type timing set. All aftermarket stock replacement sets use all-metal cam gears, so the plastic tooth wear issue goes away. If you must have a roller, check chain width against a stocker.

ForestMist66

Thanks for the reply's, what domestic brand is out there besides Cloyes, as they advertise double roller, do they make stock style? I am wary of the cheap one's too because of the China syndrome. Bob.